Topic: Winterizing your boat????? (Read 1403 times)

fishinfranklin · « **on:** November 21, 2009, 05:33:46 AM »

I might be stupit for asking this, but what are you guys having done to your outboards when you say you took it in to be winterized??This something i dont understand what there doing and bothers me everytime i read someone having it done,,,just sounds to me like a service for nothing thing hope iam wrong but how it sounds to me. other than changing the foot oil to make sure theres no water in it that could frezze what else do they do?

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-Dave- · « **Reply #1 on:** November 21, 2009, 06:01:23 AM »

all i do to winterize my 15hp is change the lower unit oil and then fog the spark plugs, also before my last trip out i put fuel stabilizer in the gas so it has a chanse to run through the motor before it is away for the winter.

dave

fishinfranklin · « **Reply #2 on:** November 21, 2009, 06:11:53 AM »

What are you fog the spark plugs with??

-Dave- · « **Reply #3 on:** November 21, 2009, 07:37:10 AM »

not quite sure dad does mine for me

Buzbait88 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 21, 2009, 08:54:42 AM »

THere is 2 ways to fog the motor. Either spray some fogging oil into it, or alot of people just choke the crap out of it until the motor almsot dies and that should put a layer of oil over spark plugs and carbs and what now. Otherwise, change the lower unit oil, charge batteries and then in the spring change your spark plugs.

fishinfranklin · « **Reply #5 on:** November 22, 2009, 05:11:50 AM »

Changing the lower unit oil never hurts, but the foggin is a waste of time and plugs, theres no need to try and get the inside wet,just pull the fuel line and let it run out and the inside will still be soaked with fuel an oil and be fine to set-up a few years. most important thing is to keep the clylinders sealed and not let any moisture in them. Myself i don't understand why anyone would want to foul out a 30 dollar set of plugs, i have had my 25yamaha for 6 years and it still has the two factory plugs in it and i still have the 2 spares that come with it, its a 93 model. Any quality plug should last easily well over 200 hours of operation. Pulling the plugs and spraying in a fuel/oil mix will not foul the plugs and will not hurt a thing but not necessary for the engine to setup for a year. Charging the batteries is a good idea,,if mine had to setup any amount of time i would remove them from the boat and set them on a block of wood out of the boat(this will stop the wires from trying to build up any corrosion) that could be a problem next year. Thanks for the responses guys and helpin me understand this a little more.

-Bryan- · « **Reply #6 on:** December 12, 2009, 06:33:34 PM »

I take it you did some research to go from knowing nothing to being an expert in a day? They make a special fogging oil that you spray into each cylinder and then turn the motor over to coat the walls with the oil (I have used transmission fluid in the past as well). Put the plugs back in and you are done with that part, then change the LU oil. I also try to get as much water out of the power head as I can because that will cause damage if your area freezes hard enough (up here it does). I also make sure any other water that I can get out is. I use compressed air to blow out the recirc pumps and bilge. Winterizing is not just a ploy to get your money, at least not in the northern climates where long, cold winters will wreak havoc on anything that has water in it that freezes.

riverfisher · « **Reply #7 on:** December 12, 2009, 07:37:29 PM »

These are the step's I take every year with my motor. I own a Merc 150 XR6 and I fog the motor with seafoam. I hope it help's ya out.

1. Fill your gas tank(s) and add gas stabilizer. (Follow the instructions on the stabilizer bottle as far as quantity. If in doubt, more is better.) **Most manufacturers will advise to store the tanks full to ensure that there's no condensation. Some of the smaller motors can have their fuel lines disconnected and run dry; this doesn't eliminate all gas from the motor and can lead to gummed up carbs, etc., come Spring. Having stabilized gas throughout the motor ensures that gaskets don't dry out and there's no chance of the gas turning to varnish.

2. Run the motor for 10-15 minutes to ensure that stabilized gas is in all of the lines, carbs, etc. (I take mine for a run after stabilizing the gas; I want to make sure that I've used up all of the un-stabilized gas that was in the fuel line, etc., and that only stabilized gas is in the system.)

3. Before shutting the motor off, you will want to fog the engine by spraying a fogging oil (I use seafoam) into all of the carbs (or the EFI system). **Check your owner's manual for specific instructions on how to fog your particular engine. (Some of the newer engines are not to be fogged.) Follow the instructions on the can; you will want to have the motor smoking "big time", this ensures that you have the engine properly fogged. **Fogging oil puts a coating of oil on all of the cylinder walls and throughout the engine; it prevents rust from occuring during the winter storage months.

4. Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil into each of the plug holes. (About a 3-4 second spray in each.) Replace the spark plugs and disconnect your kill switch. Turn the motor over 3-4 times to distribute the oil into the cylinders. **Not everyone does this step, but I figure that it's extra insurance that the entire engine is well fogged. After the first run in the Spring you might want to consider putting in new spark plugs, don't put in new ones in the Fall, they will just get "messed up" with the fogging oil.

5. Remove the prop and check for fishing line behind it. Grease the shaft and replace the prop.
**If you have any nicks or dings on the prop you might want to have it repaired during the winter when the "prop guys" aren't too busy, rather than waiting until Spring.

6. Change the lower unit lube, (or at least check to ensure that there is no water present in the oil to ensure that it can't freeze during the winter. If there's water in the oil, it will be at the bottom and will come out first, or the lube will be a milky color which indicates water present.
7. Grease all fittings and lubricate all points shown in your owner's manual.

8. Fill the oil tank(s) to the top to prevent condensation during the winter.

9. Remove all batteries and store them inside. Charge them about every 6 weeks or so to keep them "topped up". **You might want take the wires from each battery and put a cable tie (or piece of wire) through them to keep them in "sets" so that you know which ones go where come Spring. Label them as well, if need be.

10. Check to ensure that you don't have any water in your livewells, bilge pumps, etc. If in doubt you might want to add some RV antifreeze to them.

11. To make sure that the water in your water pressure line doesn't freeze during the winter and damage your gauge, you might want to disconnect the line and drain the water out.

12. Check your trailer tires to ensure that they are at the maximum tire pressure (probably 50#). Depending on where you store your trailer you might want to consider putting the trailer on blocks to keep it from sitting on the tires all winter.

13. Check the trailer hubs to see if they need grease added.

14. You might want to prop all of your compartments open slightly with pieces of styrofoam (or something similar), to ensure that air can circulate everywhere to prevent any condensation.

15. Remove basically everything from the boat.

16. Make sure that you store your motor in the "down" position to ensure that all water has drained out.

17. Wash the boat,and put a coat of wax on it (and the motor), if it needs it.

fishinfranklin · « **Reply #8 on:** December 12, 2009, 07:39:30 PM »

By no means am I a expert,,but i do know my way around ANYTHING mechanical, And will tell you the foggy oil is bull,just like yourself said you used transmission fluid, which would be my Last choice of oils to put into a engine to set up, its has way to many detergents in it, but you did shed some light about getting the water out of the power head,, water pump, bilge and livewell pumps and drains,,i could see that being a big problem over a cold winter up north.which no of the above had mentioned,

fishinfranklin · « **Reply #9 on:** December 12, 2009, 07:47:07 PM »

Riverfisher thanks for your respsone. all of that would good things to do when storing over a peroid of time. But still i will say the fogging is not required due to the amount of fuel an oil thats in the block on everything and the reason I say that is i have taken a good many 2strokes apart and the only ones that was not soaked on the whole inside was ones that had been run JUST on gas with NO oil

Buzbait88 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 19, 2009, 06:54:09 PM »

to each his own. I'm going to take the safe route and keep fogging it. I'm confused why you asked the question?? When people answered you, you quickly corrected them and told them to do it your way? Seems odd.

fishinfranklin · « **Reply #11 on:** December 19, 2009, 09:50:13 PM »

The reason i ask was a friend in Pa had took his family fish& ski in to be winterized and was charged 245 bucks!!! and when i ask him what all did they do for 245 bucks he said he didnt know. myself wasent sure of what people done up north to store boats for winter. but yourself, tracker and riverfish all pointed out some things to do that the average guy might not think about. I agree with all of it but just dont see where the foggin is needed.

Groma · « **Reply #12 on:** December 20, 2009, 04:17:15 PM »

I also pull all of my batteries out and store them in the house . I put dryer sheets in some of the compartments to detour any small animals from setting up winter quarters there. Also it gives the boat that clean fresh scent at springtime !

Buzbait88 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 20, 2009, 07:48:22 PM »

Quote from: fishinfranklin on December 19, 2009, 09:50:13 PM

The reason i ask was a friend in Pa had took his family fish& ski in to be winterized and was charged 245 bucks!!! and when i ask him what all did they do for 245 bucks he said he didnt know. myself wasent sure of what people done up north to store boats for winter. but yourself, tracker and riverfish all pointed out some things to do that the average guy might not think about. I agree with all of it but just dont see where the foggin is needed.

dang 245! Thats crazy. YOu can do it yourself for about 50$. I asked about getting it done by a "pro" and they quoted me about 125$.

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Author Topic: Winterizing your boat????? (Read 1403 times)