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[mauro]

I've been fishing a bait caster for 16 total days on the water (6 hr days, I have a "habit" of fishing :D ).
I have noticed the following settings seem to be required when fishing certain lures with certain techniques....

Senkos -
Long casts - 1-2 brakes on for 75feet plus (up to about 150 feet it would seem)
Med casts - 2-3 brakes on  for 15-75 feet
short loopcasts - 4-6 brakes on for under 15-20 feet casts.

It seemed the spool momentum needed to be checked more aggressively with the shorter casts as the worm would lose momentum faster than the spool did.
On longer casts, as long as the line was laid up "loose" on the spool, I could cast quite far with only 1-2 brakes on.
Medium casts, I really didnt change from my long cast setting as often, unless I was near the shorter range of under 50 foot.

Heavy lures - (1/2oz plus jigs, spinners, etc.)
Long casts - 0 -2 brakes
Med casts - 2 -4 brakes
Short cats - all 6 brakes

Again, the heavier lure, set the spool flying and it needed to be stopped alot on short casts.
On longer casts, the lure would pretty much rip line from the reel, as long as the cast was smooth.

All of this was done on 50lb PowerPro with a 7ft MHF st. croix mojo.

Do you guys have similar experiences with your casting?   Am I completely off base?

Thanks,
Mauro
M.

[Joshawa]

I usually don't adjust the brakes on my reels too often. I will set the spool tension knob when I change lures but not the brakes. Different casts/lures just require varying amounts of thumb pressure on the spool.

[pawpaw]

I usually don't adjust the brakes on my reels too often. I will set the spool tension knob when I change lures but not the brakes. Different casts/lures just require varying amounts of thumb pressure on the spool.

Absolutely correct. Just set the brakes for what you are going to be doing most and compensate for everything else

[OHbassaholic]

Over the years I have met folks that will adjust by either the brakes or tensioner then others that like to twiddle with both.  Still others that tend to just adjust using thumb pressure.  I found during my years in retail sales of fishing gear that my time was best spent teaching the functionality of all three and let people experiment with what worked best for them.

Myself, after a couple seasons of experimenting, found I tend towards setting the tension to the weight of the lure at the start of the fishing day.  Then each combo that was designated to specific techniques/distances I would set the brakes.  Such as; more brakes "on" for the further distance I would throw the lure due to the power I would put into the cast.  For close in work; I had all brakes off and would thread the spool speed with my thumb.

There you go, one anglers practical application of the systems of the baitcaster.  Each angler should be able to find their own niche by experimentation.  So far you have put in a little time and already know what is working for you...at this time.  It could very well change as you become more familiar with the equipment in hand and what you specifically want to accomplish on your next cast.  Best of luck to you and enjoy the experience.

[mauro]

So what you guys are telling me is I am doing it wrong?
I barely ever adjust spool tension other than to keep it from spinning itself.  I found any more tension and I have to throw harder to hit distances I can hit with almost no tension. 

I fish from shore, so my cast distances vary based my target.  Sometimes I am tossing a senko close by,  and if I was previously casting 100+ feet into an open spot in the weeds, I need to change from a few brakes, to many brakes to control the momentum of the spool on a gentle cast.  If I crank up spool tension, all I do is make it harder to toss gently.   
Maybe I am doing it wrong.
M.

[-Shawn-]

My first question is what kind of bait caster?  The brakes should work evenly through all cast. You should not have to ajust them with the same bait and just different cast lengths.

You are correct on the spool tension setting though.  Loosen it untill you have side to side slack in the spool then tighten it slowly untill you remove the slack. 

[mauro]

It's a Shimano Curado 200e5.  The brakes can't work evenly by design because they are cetrifugal.   The faster the spool spins, the more the brakes are applied.  The braking force increases multiplicatively with each brake added.  If the momentum of the reel is releasing line faster than the lure is moving, I get a backlash.  When tossing a bait a few feet to pitch under a tree limb or something, the lure can pull hard on the spool on release, but not as much after it's in the air, causing the spool to move too fast.  My solution was to use more brakes, versus add tension to the spool, as that seems to make it harder to control the lure's release. 

Maybe with time I'll do this less, and use my thumb more, or add more tension to the spool.
Hopefully someday I'll meet one of you and you can give me an education, if i've not figured it out by then.

M.

[-Shawn-]

I would apply 4 brakes and practice using your thumb to start.  I use 2 most of the time.  You can also raise your rod tip just before the bait touches down and thumb the spool and set the bait on the water.  This will help silence your presentation and eliminate your backlash problem.

Did you get the Red set of Brakes with your reel also?  You should be able to put them on and they will give more braking power untill you get used to thumbing the spool. 

[OHbassaholic]

The basis for centrifugal brakes is the tensioner controls the beginning and end of the cast and the brakes everything in between.  Thinking about this, one may believe your settings are not correct.  But, if it works and you are confident that you are getting the end result you desire who can argue.

If I placed one of my super-tuned Shimano Castaic SF's into your hands that I use for pitching that is set up much like Shawn was talking about, it might be useless in your hands at this time.  But you could use your own set up placing your lure exactly in the same spot as I do, who can say which one is better for the presentation?  I have always been a proponent for "use what works best for you." 

[mauro]

The basis for centrifugal brakes is the tensioner controls the beginning and end of the cast and the brakes everything in between.  Thinking about this, one may believe your settings are not correct.  But, if it works and you are confident that you are getting the end result you desire who can argue.

If I placed one of my super-tuned Shimano Castaic SF's into your hands that I use for pitching that is set up much like Shawn was talking about, it might be useless in your hands at this time.  But you could use your own set up placing your lure exactly in the same spot as I do, who can say which one is better for the presentation?  I have always been a proponent for "use what works best for you." 

OHBass,

Thank you for the encouragement.  I will try to use more thumb as time goes on. 
I replied because according to Shimano's manual (ok the picture)  it shows the CF brakes working early in the cast, and the tensioner on the end of the cast.     

All I know for sure it, I know I can cast further and more accurately with the baitcaster than my spinning gear and will spend every minute I can mastering it.

M.

[pawpaw]

Mauro
You are doing fine. A lot of guys never question how to set up a reel and never really learn how to cast. Like others have said you are just going to have to find what works best for you. One good reason for having multiple rods is so you can have each set up for different lures and situations.

[OHbassaholic]

I replied because according to Shimano's manual (ok the picture)  it shows the CF brakes working early in the cast, and the tensioner on the end of the cast.     

This is an interesting thought for the illustration to portray.  I can't say exactly what force it takes to activate the centrifugal brakes, but do not believe they come into play at all for flipping and close in pitching.  As I say, this is interesting and I'd bet we have a member that could pop in to give us the low down on what force it should take to activate the brakes. 

[islandbass]

I've been fishing a bait caster for 16 total days on the water (6 hr days, I have a "habit" of fishing :D ).
I have noticed the following settings seem to be required when fishing certain lures with certain techniques....

Senkos -
Long casts - 1-2 brakes on for 75feet plus (up to about 150 feet it would seem)
Med casts - 2-3 brakes on  for 15-75 feet
short loopcasts - 4-6 brakes on for under 15-20 feet casts.

It seemed the spool momentum needed to be checked more aggressively with the shorter casts as the worm would lose momentum faster than the spool did.
On longer casts, as long as the line was laid up "loose" on the spool, I could cast quite far with only 1-2 brakes on.
Medium casts, I really didnt change from my long cast setting as often, unless I was near the shorter range of under 50 foot.

Heavy lures - (1/2oz plus jigs, spinners, etc.)
Long casts - 0 -2 brakes
Med casts - 2 -4 brakes
Short cats - all 6 brakes

Again, the heavier lure, set the spool flying and it needed to be stopped alot on short casts.
On longer casts, the lure would pretty much rip line from the reel, as long as the cast was smooth.

All of this was done on 50lb PowerPro with a 7ft MHF st. croix mojo.

Do you guys have similar experiences with your casting?   Am I completely off base?

Thanks,
Mauro
M.

I find your situtation a bit interesting and it is slightly different from mine.  I think though that you will eventuaually come to realize that you will not need to adjust the number of brakes you use as often as you are doing now.  The beauty of CF brakes, epsecially shimano's, is that they're almost like Ron Popeil's infomercial on that roaster of his. Set it, and forget, at least for most of the lures you are going to toss.  Most beginners will eventually settle to have three brakes on and 3 off.

As for me, I used that in the beginning but now I use two brakes on and 4 off and this is for just about everything. I also set the tension knob a bit looser than the "let the lure fall slowly to the ground." I reckon as you gain experience that you will come to prefer that looser setting if the wind allows.

The thing about the bc reel, especially shimanos is that they're no brainers (in retrospect anyway) in that they're very easy to learn and master and to a certain extent "spoil" the angler by doing such a great job at making well controlled casts.

As you gain more confidence and experience, you are going to discover that when the reel is properly set, you don't even have to have the thumb feathering the cast at all. Shoot, just wait to you make a max cast with something like a Rapala DT6, and shout, "Look ma, no thumb!" and out goes your lure, sailing through the air, as you hear the low whiz of the spool tell you where the cast is.  Then, when the brakes are set right, the spool practically stops on its own right as the lure hits the water, all without the tumb. Like I said, VBS system really spoils the angler. I'd bet a floating rapala minnow that you will eventually gravitate to one "main" brake setting for just about everything too. The only time I change the 2 on and 4 off to 3 off and one is if the wind is very strong and all my casts are into the wind. If not, I don't change the brakes.

Cool thread to start.

[mauro]

While I agree with you for most applications, you can get away with just setting 2 brakes or so.
When you are tossing a senko only 10 feet, you need more brakes or the spool will race ahead of the lure.
Hopefully I'll just get better a thumbing, but not just yet. 

[islandbass]

Like I said, your hands and body will become accustomed to the reel and the 2 brake setting, including the senko you wish to only cast 10'. I thought as you did initially too. I will bet a floating rapala minnow that in time, you will not need to adjust your brake configuration just to toss a senko over another lure. You will develop the technique to achieve this.

[coldfront]

sounds like you're well on your way...both in terms of learning the process and 'thinking' through the issues...

I'm still trying for the day I can turn off all my Centrifugal braking...

[mauro]

I have spent the another 20+ days fishing since the last time I posted in here.  I can say I have really stopped adjusting my brakes unless the wind is real bad.   That is not because I do not think it's useful, but because my thumb has gotten really "educated" and I no longer need to customize the braking to the cast.   

I still hold by what I said originally, if you are casting short and do not thumb the reel, you need more brakes.

Now if only I could figure out how to pitch cleanly and skip jigs with a baitcaster 

[coldfront]

Now if only I could figure out how to pitch cleanly and skip jigs with a baitcaster 

with enough practice...you'll get this too...(I personally have not had enough practice on the skipping piece).