So for my bait caster I might use braid. I know this has probably been covered 400 times but. Right now i have 12lb mono. If i went 15lb braid, which is only the size of 4lb mono, will that cause back lash more often?
I was reading about braid about a year ago and they said you have to water proof it? Has it come further than that or would i still have to get waterproofing oil stuff.
I know it sinks but is it gonna scare fish away? I normally am fishing 2-5 feet deep and not the clearest waters but not carpy super muddy water either.
What are other pros and cons of braid vs mono.
The smallest I have used is 20lb, and if it isn't spooled on REAL TIGHTLY it will dig in to the spool, I am pretty sure the thinner 15lb would dig in worse. As the diameter gets larger, the digging problem lessens.
When it digs in is usually when you get backlashes.
I have never used any kind of waterproofing on Braid. I have on Dacron, but that was years ago, last time I used Dacron I didn't oil it and it worked fine.
Based on my experience, I haven't run into the line causing any problems with scaring fish.
I went to 30lb Power Pro Super 8 Slick and it was the same size as 8lb I do believe(I've thrown the box away already). Haven't used it on the water yet, but pitching and whatnot in the yard and it does extremely well. As far as the waterproofing, no. I was spraying the line with the old(read cheap) bottle of cleaner for our HDS units and it wasn't staying on the line, just long enough to get the palomar tied.
Don't worry about visibility and such. However, I would bump it up to at least 30#. If the braid is too thin it will dig into itself upon a hookset. Even 30# will do it, so just be cautious. No real need for coating braid. You can spray it with KVDs L&L if you want. Some say it helps with color fade.
Do fish know what fishing line is? Lol. Jk
With as much fishing line on the bottom around here, they think is is just part of the swim.
The lightest braid I have is Power Pro Red 30lb test that I got on sale last year to act as back fill and a quantity marker for my spinning setup. Haven't even thrown it yet, but I refuse to go smaller then that. The lowest I'll go on my baitcasting setups will be 50. Any reason to go thinner then that and I'd prefer to just use Flouro. If you're used to throwing 12lb test mono, I'd recommend you get an equivalent, or larger, diameter braid because it is a completely different casting feel, especially on a baitcaster.
Compared to mono and flouro braid is limp, very limp. I would do some practice pitching, flipping and casting with it before actually getting it wet. Braid will wind knot at times keep an eye out, also set your drag lighter, no stretch means instant hook set, and you don't need as much pressure for a hook set. I would try it, braid will help you catch more fish.
Rodney
By the way, braid floats. I've used 15 on a baitcaster, and you have to keep it wrapped tight to the spool. Why do you want to switch from Mono? I've fished braid in gin clear water and it didn't make a difference
I don't go below 40lb on a baitcaster, anything less and the line will dig into the spool, atleast for me. A few cast after you dig it out the line will break. Gl
Quote from: njpaulc on April 03, 2015, 10:27:17 AM
By the way, braid floats. I've used 15 on a baitcaster, and you have to keep it wrapped tight to the spool. Why do you want to switch from Mono? I've fished braid in gin clear water and it didn't make a difference
It isnt i really wanna switch. Im fine with mono i just wanted to see what you guys said about braid. I dont wanna use anything above 15lb line though cuz i fine rivers 80% of the time and so im getting snagge. Im only running jigs and plastics normally and i make the jigs. I dont wanna pull in every stick i hook and i wanna be able to break the line of if it isnt movin i dont have to cut it and leave a big trail end that im gonna hook on every cast. So im probably just gonna stick with mono.
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 03, 2015, 06:01:25 PM
It isnt i really wanna switch. Im fine with mono i just wanted to see what you guys said about braid. I dont wanna use anything above 15lb line though cuz i fine rivers 80% of the time and so im getting snagge. Im only running jigs and plastics normally and i make the jigs. I dont wanna pull in every stick i hook and i wanna be able to break the line of if it isnt movin i dont have to cut it and leave a big trail end that im gonna hook on every cast. So im probably just gonna stick with mono.
This is one reason why I don't have braid on my smaller rods. I do a lot of river smallie fishing, and when you're in a canoe casting at eddies, you have be able to sacrifice the lure instead of putting yourself in a potentially dangerous situation.
Quote from: TheLastRodBender on April 03, 2015, 07:31:53 PM
This is one reason why I don't have braid on my smaller rods. I do a lot of river smallie fishing, and when you're in a canoe casting at eddies, you have be able to sacrifice the lure instead of putting yourself in a potentially dangerous situation.
Yah. I mean i dont canoe but really im not catching 20lb fish. And if i do im jut fight it for a damn long time lol. Im normally catching 2-4 pound fish so yah.
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 03, 2015, 07:34:16 PM
Yah. I mean i dont canoe but really im not catching 20lb fish. And if i do im jut fight it for a damn long time lol. Im normally catching 2-4 pound fish so yah.
Yeah same here... when I'm fishing on the river. Strength is not the only benefit to braid. I used braid on most other bodies of water that I fish. It absolutely has its benefits, when used properly. I will use braid when I'm wading, because in the event of a snag, I can retrieve it without cutting 20 feet of line off and leaving it to float in the river and never break down.
On a river system, it can be especially useful because of the lack of stretch. In current, setting the hook is more difficult considering there is constant motion, allowing for bows or slack line. Braid can help increase the strength of a hookset.
In addition to that is the sensitivity. Braid will translate bites a lot better then Mono will. It will also help you be able to analyze what the bottom is like. In a rocky bottom like most river systems, being able to decipher the difference between a rock and a soft bite is critical at times.
Quote from: TheLastRodBender on April 03, 2015, 08:07:26 PM
Yeah same here... when I'm fishing on the river. Strength is not the only benefit to braid. I used braid on most other bodies of water that I fish. It absolutely has its benefits, when used properly. I will use braid when I'm wading, because in the event of a snag, I can retrieve it without cutting 20 feet of line off and leaving it to float in the river and never break down.
On a river system, it can be especially useful because of the lack of stretch. In current, setting the hook is more difficult considering there is constant motion, allowing for bows or slack line. Braid can help increase the strength of a hookset.
In addition to that is the sensitivity. Braid will translate bites a lot better then Mono will. It will also help you be able to analyze what the bottom is like. In a rocky bottom like most river systems, being able to decipher the difference between a rock and a soft bite is critical at times.
Yah better hook set ect. But i am fishing through heavy coverage. Mainly sticks and trees. 15lb wont work well so that means i have to get bigger line. Probably 30lb or bigger. I dont think im gonna break 30lb braid. Which means a log cut off tail end.
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 03, 2015, 08:23:43 PM
Yah better hook set ect. But i am fishing through heavy coverage. Mainly sticks and trees. 15lb wont work well so that means i have to get bigger line. Probably 30lb or bigger. I dont think im gonna break 30lb braid. Which means a log cut off tail end.
Very true, if you're in a situation that you cannot get to where it's snagged to get it loose.... which is a balance you will need to find. If you want to try braid, you can also consider a flouro leader. 3 - 4 feet of flourocarbon at the end of the line tied to the bait. This will give you the ability to break off if need be.
I fish a couple snaggy places with 20 to 40 lb braid, I just tie on a lighter leader, that is what breaks almost all of the time, weakest link, ya know. It doesn't have to be very long, and then you can actually adjust the line to the situation / lure.
A foot or three of say 12lb test mono as an example, doesn't hurt the sensitivity much, and is sacrificial.
Quote from: TheLastRodBender on April 03, 2015, 08:26:09 PM
Very true, if you're in a situation that you cannot get to where it's snagged to get it loose.... which is a balance you will need to find. If you want to try braid, you can also consider a flouro leader. 3 - 4 feet of flourocarbon at the end of the line tied to the bait. This will give you the ability to break off if need be.
Hmm a flouro leader. Never used flouro either. Lol. But i like the idea. So how would you attach the flouro/mono maybe? Leader. Tie a swivel between the flouro and braid?
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 03, 2015, 08:29:02 PM
Hmm a flouro leader. Never used flouro either. Lol. But i like the idea. So how would you attach the flouro/mono maybe? Leader. Tie a swivel between the flouro and braid?
PERSONALLY I'll use a 'double uni-knot'. If you were to use a swivel, it REALLY restricts the length of the leader since you cant / dont want to real the swivel up through the top eye of the rod. A double uni knot will allow a much smaller junction and allow for less of a hindrance as you make casts. If you are going to do this, make sure you have a mono/flouro leader that is of equal, or very similar, diameter, as it will be stronger.
Quote from: TheLastRodBender on April 03, 2015, 08:32:37 PM
PERSONALLY I'll use a 'double uni-knot'. If you were to use a swivel, it REALLY restricts the length of the leader since you cant / dont want to real the swivel up through the top eye of the rod. A double uni knot will allow a much smaller junction and allow for less of a hindrance as you make casts. If you are going to do this, make sure you have a mono/flouro leader that is of equal, or very similar, diameter, as it will be stronger.
Ok. Didnt think about not being able to real a swivel through lol. Hmm. What brand braid?
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 03, 2015, 08:34:21 PM
Ok. Didnt think about not being able to real a swivel through lol. Hmm. What brand braid?
All I use is Power Pro.... moss green.
In the rare case I use a leader, I just go with a standard improved clinch on both ends. I have yet to break off at said knot. I have, however, broken off at the lure many times. But remember, fluoro sinks, mono....not as much. With the stiffness I've gotten with every fluoro I've tried, I'd go with mono. Sunline Super Natural or P Line CX Clear Blue/Fluorescent are my two.
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 03, 2015, 08:29:02 PM
Hmm a flouro leader. Never used flouro either. Lol. But i like the idea. So how would you attach the flouro/mono maybe? Leader. Tie a swivel between the flouro and braid?
That is one way, the other is a direct connection using a number of the knots for that reason. Some of them are the Albright Special, Alberto Knot, Slim Beauty, Blood Knot, and Double Uni Knot.
If tying one of these knots, don't let them travel through the level wind. That will damage almost any knot, and over time will damage the metal guide system on the level wind. For leaders make it about a rod's length or less. Spinning gear, isn't as critical.
I suggest you only use a double uni knot on a splice that is going to be deep in the spool, that knot is constantly tightening, and the braid creates a sawing action on the mono or fluoro which in turn eventually cuts the knot through itself.
When you are spooling the braid on, either tie on a length of mono (couple feet) to the reel, then tie the braid to the mono and spool on. This is a good place for the double uni knot. Or put a layer of black electrical tape or similar product on the spool then tie the braid directly to the reel.
Without this, or a braid band, the braid will slip, making it look like your drag isn't working.
One last thing I do when dealing with heavier braids, I make that mono backing hunk of much lighter line, like maybe 10 to 15 lb, depending on the reel and main line. This way if you get maxed spooled for some reason in a no win situation, the link will pop. Breaking very heavy lines at the reel can have catastrophic effects on it, and this weak link can be a life / gear saver.
Pferox, you just blew my mind lol. I hadn't even considered these things and it makes total sense.
Quote from: Pferox on April 03, 2015, 08:51:38 PM
One last thing I do when dealing with heavier braids, I make that mono backing hunk of much lighter line, like maybe 10 to 15 lb, depending on the reel and main line. This way if you get maxed spooled for some reason in a no win situation, the link will pop. Breaking very heavy lines at the reel can have catastrophic effects on it, and this weak link can be a life / gear saver.
Ok i understood till here. Are you just restating you start will a layer of mono then tie to braid?? I dont understand what you mean by mono backing hunk?
Put on about 25-50yds of mono, splice in braid, and continue spooling. I do this will all lines, but it's crucial with braid.
Quote from: TheLastRodBender on April 03, 2015, 08:58:52 PM
Pferox, you just blew my mind lol. I hadn't even considered these things and it makes total sense.
I've been fishing braid for a few weeks. ~roflmao
Actually, I learned a lot when I started shark fishing, many things we see bass fishing is so subtle that it is hard to diagnose. When a big shark is pulling it happens in real time and you can see and feel what is going on, quick.
I saw a guy with a HUGE reel hook a shark and the shark took off an wound around a shrimp boat somehow. The boat took everything, it even started to take the angler until he let go.
Take your mono and reel on 5 - 6 turns... then attach your braid to the mono. This way if you get the ENTIRE spool pulled of your reel, there is a much weaker line there to allow for breaking. Obviously it would be a very VERY extenuating circumstance that it would get to this point, but like i mentioned about being in a canoe and it putting you in a dangerous situation... having a large amount of pressure with braid directly tied to your spool could do a LOT of damage to the reel itself
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 03, 2015, 09:03:09 PM
Ok i understood till here. Are you just restating you start will a layer of mono then tie to braid?? I dont understand what you mean by mono backing hunk?
Yes, but your mono backing layer will be of much lighter lb strength.
I personally believe that using mono backing with heavier braids is the best and only way to go.
If you are tieing on 15 or 20 lb braid, then go ahead and tie the same lb test backing, or direct to the spool (in my opinion). Above that I would look at the reel strength before I decide on which way to go, backing or direct.
As an example, you are planning on putting 65lb braid on, you should put about 10 to 12 lb mono, not 65lb mono, and not tie directly to the spool. Not only because of the line size similarities, but because of the sacrificial qualities also.
They don't make 65lb mono. That's called rope Pferox.
All right. I get what you were saying now.
Quote from: TWilson on April 03, 2015, 09:05:31 PM
Put on about 25-50yds of mono, splice in braid, and continue spooling. I do this will all lines, but it's crucial with braid.
Maybe for bass fishing, but I never use that much, 10, 20 feet, maybe.
Since most casts are relatively short in bass fishing, you can get away with using longer backing, heck you only need 100 yards at the most for most applications. Then you can get two spoolings with one 200 yard filler spool.
For my type of fishing, the minimum I put on a small reel is about 200 yards, the big surf reels can be half a mile of line.
Quote from: TWilson on April 03, 2015, 09:19:14 PM
They don't make 65lb mono. That's called rope Pferox.
Some of my wind on leaders used to be 100 yards 200lb mono. AND some weed eater line is 65 lb mono, others are 150, 200, and 300 lb.
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 02, 2015, 09:03:11 PM
So for my bait caster I might use braid. I know this has probably been covered 400 times but. Right now i have 12lb mono. If i went 15lb braid, which is only the size of 4lb mono, will that cause back lash more often?
I was reading about braid about a year ago and they said you have to water proof it? Has it come further than that or would i still have to get waterproofing oil stuff.
I know it sinks but is it gonna scare fish away? I normally am fishing 2-5 feet deep and not the clearest waters but not carpy super muddy water either.
What are other pros and cons of braid vs mono.
I switched to braid after just learning how to cast with mono and there was a slight learning curb. I am using 50lb power pro. Do you get backlashes and overruns? I do feom time to time if i see a fish and get excited and try to rush my cast. Or if im casting against the wind.
It does dig in a little after a nice size fish depending on the hookset and how my drag is set but i already know that so i make my next cast expecting it to stop mid air and i just unclog the line thats dug in or i just release the line manually and get it out.
All in all with a good reel and a dual breaking system i havent had much issue. Now i cant say the same for my megacast from bps that only has magnetic breaks. Centrafugal fits my casting style best. I dont even use the mag breaks on my pro qualifier.
As far as visability ive caught bass with the 50 in clear water and slighly stained water with no issue. But if i really want to be stealthy ill add 15lb fluoro leader. About 4 to 6 feet. Works perfectly fine in extremely clear waters.
And the guys are right if you add that leader you can snap the line much easier. It will either snap at the lure or at your knot that combines the two. Breaking 50 lb is not easy at all lol ive bent thick jig hooks on rocks tryi g to break 50. Got back the jig only to find the hook way bent. That wasnt to bad cause i could bend it back and keep using it lol
Wait...i just though about this...if you are gonna use a mono or flouro leader to make the line break easier and a mono or flouro backer to make it break easier if need be, they braid is COMPLETELY pointless. It is just an expensive and green filler...unless there is a benefit to using braid in there rather than mono or flouro.
Is braid gonna cast out smoother or untangle in birdnests easier? So really what is the point of braid they?
I wouldn't go lower than 30. Like others have said it digs into itself. I've used suffix 832 and Power pro, not the slick. Recently I bought spiderwire vis glo braid. It's awesome. Super round, fairly slick, if you do happen to get a backlash it comes out with a tug and not picking through. Thinner braid may also snap if it digs in and you've got a decent sized lure. Bye bye bait.
If you have braid that is snapping, get a different braid.
Braid is more resistant to abrasion.
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 04, 2015, 09:12:57 AM
Wait...i just though about this...if you are gonna use a mono or flouro leader to make the line break easier and a mono or fluoro backer to make it break easier if need be, they braid is COMPLETELY pointless. It is just an expensive and green filler...unless there is a benefit to using braid in there rather than mono or fluoro.
Is braid gonna cast out smoother or untangle in bird nests easier? So really what is the point of braid they?
This is personal, but to me the benefits of braid, are the smaller size for the LB test, castability, sensitivity, longevity. I don't have a problem with taking out backlashes with any line, so can't really talk about that.
If that is the way you are thinking, then stick with mono, and miss the benefits of braid. Because no matter how we write here, you aren't going to get the picture. Each fishing scenario is different, and common sense tells you when to use what application, this means line choices, lures, whatever.
Quote from: Brocksdad1 on April 04, 2015, 09:49:15 AM
If you have braid that is snapping, get a different braid.
Braid is more resistant to abrasion.
I don't know about that, maybe in the heavier tests, but it cuts a lot easier than the other lines on sharp stuff, barnacles are killers on it, I cringe every time a fish runs for the pilings on the pier when I have braid, because that is almost always a guaranteed cut off. Most braids are abrasive themselves, which is why it is good in weedy environments, it can saw through a lot of weed material.
I can't hardly cut through my power pro 50#
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 04, 2015, 09:12:57 AM
Wait...i just though about this...if you are gonna use a mono or flouro leader to make the line break easier and a mono or flouro backer to make it break easier if need be, they braid is COMPLETELY pointless. It is just an expensive and green filler...unless there is a benefit to using braid in there rather than mono or flouro.
Is braid gonna cast out smoother or untangle in birdnests easier? So really what is the point of braid they?
I have the option to use a leader in clear water with no cover or very little. But that same rod serves me if i go to the everglades where there is heavy cover. Mostly pads. Pulling a fish out of cover without braid is not easy and you will lost likely lose the fish.
This way i dont need to respool every weekend.
Now if you only fish one particular type of place then maybe you dont need braid.
I like the sensitivity of it too. I feel the bite better with braid. I also do night fishing and you cant really watch your line so have to rely on feel. Night fishing with mono on a slack line isnt easy. At least not for me.
Quote from: rickdelprado on April 04, 2015, 10:22:49 AM
I have the option to use a leader in clear water with no cover or very little. But that same rod serves me if i go to the everglades where there is heavy cover. Mostly pads. Pulling a fish out of cover without braid is not easy and you will lost likely lose the fish.
This way i dont need to respool every weekend.
Now if you only fish one particular type of place then maybe you dont need braid.
I like the sensitivity of it too. I feel the bite better with braid. I also do night fishing and you cant really watch your line so have to rely on feel. Night fishing with mono on a slack line isnt easy. At least not for me.
Ok. I guess i needed to re read the thread.
Yah guys sorry about the stupid comment i made. I just had a blank moment. Yah i figured out the benefits. Sorry bout that.
Here is why I like braid for most conditions I run into when I'm not around shell. Most of you bass guys probably will never run into this, but it has taught me a lot about braid.
When pier fishing, I have the potential to run into very large fish, but usually catch around bass sized or smaller. Many of them like to take a lot of line before you can get them manageable enough to get into the net.
The smallest baitcasting reel that was useable is a 5000 or 6000 round reel spooled with a couple hundred yards of 20lb mono. For what I target that is a good sized line, 30 lb is ok too, but castability sucks. I'm not targeting shark so there is no need to go over 30lb line. Heck I know shark guys who use that as their main line and just go heavier on the leaders, but that is another treatise.
Just as an example, the 5.?:1 Bass Pro PQ has the same horsepower as the Garcia 6600 C3, but is lighter and easier to hold for long periods of time, but won't hold enough 20lb mono to do the job.
But I can spool 20 lb 832 on the PQ and get almost 300 yards of the same weight line. This comes out to at least a 50 percent savings in weight and bulk, making it much easier to hold for any length of time. Add the fact that you can usually get longer casts, it is easy to clear out backlashes, and the loop kinks on backlashes don't damage the line like it can do with mono, AND add the fact that it lasts longer, it is just a win win situation, for the right situation. Line cutting into the spool happens, but when you are casting 1oz or better weights, it usually isn't that noticeable compared to the lighter weights of lures.
Porpuses are notorious for picking up baits and running with them at certain times. They don't bite through leaders usually, and can pull 300 yards of line with max drag on some of the largest reels, reels like I use are child's play when they hook onto one of those, in the blink of an eye. I don't know how fast they are going, but to me it seems like they are hitting 30 or even 100 mph on full throttle. When they get to the end of the line, all that momentum and energy is now transferred to the spool before the line separates. I have seen medium shark reels literally explode from the impact because they didn't have any sacrificial line at the end of the spool. Remember braid has little shock absorption, so it will all be transferred to the spool instead of through the line stretching like mono does.
AND the nice part is that I can take that same PQ, and rod, reset the brakes and throw 1/4 and up lures when I get to the Bayou and inshore fish.
Now if we want to talk about spinning and non level wind reels, I can fill a whole thread in one post on that subject. ;)
Depending on the presentation, pitching, flipping, and heavy cover work demands heavier line straight to the hook just because of the nature of the beast. But for most other presentations you could go with much lighter braids, and not worry about any sacrificial stuff.
Heck for many presentations, in more open water 15 lb or less would be ideal. BUT because of the digging in problem those lighter lines are better used on spinning gear.
Quote from: Brocksdad1 on April 04, 2015, 10:17:17 AM
I can't hardly cut through my power pro 50#
You are right Bryce. Think of it as a rope, the thicker the rope the more number of times you have to pass the knife across it to cut it increases, but it will cut significantly every pass, whereas mono is more resistant to the amount it is cut with each pass.
If you are bored some time, get a length of 20lb and 50lb, braid, mono and flouro, a razor blade and a vice. Put the razor blade in the vice so the blade is sticking up, hold the line tightly so it is perpendicular to the blade, run the tight line so it is being cut with the blade and count the number of passes need to separate the line. Do this for each line.
THEN, do it so the blade is scraping the line instead of actually cutting it, and count the passes. It is a great education process in understanding lines.
I don't anymore, but used to do this test with every line I used just to see how each one is effected by that type of abrasion.
I might pick up some braid and try it.
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 04, 2015, 03:14:36 PM
I might pick up some braid and try it.
I was put onto power pro by bassinlou, changed my opinion of it after i used it. I think its excellent! Ive also used sufix but in 15lb. Sufix is also good but ive got that on my spinning gear. Sufix seems to have a layer of wax to or something that makes it smooth. Its also kind of flat. Power pro is almost half the price and is excellent quality. From now on thats my choice. I would probably stay away from the cheap store name stuff so if it stinks it doesnt leave a bad taste in your mouth about braid. Just my two cents.
I agree with Rick, until you get experienced with the ins and outs of braid, stick with a name brand, PP is a good line, although it isn't my favorite, but for personal reasons.
Now after using it for what seems like a millennium, I have a couple house brands I like, but I know what to expect with them.
Im pretty sure my biggest challenge with braid is going be having to use scissors not my teeth to cut the tail off of knots...
I use a knife. Scissors are most of the time unsuccessful either unless they're really high quality and tight. A knife never fails.
Just read your post Jim
If I get some equal strength line of each I'll try it out
As to the cutting the line, I just bought a pair of super line scissors by Rapala at DSG and they work wonderfully. Partially serated on the inner half, too bad I'm not using braid anymore. They work just as good on mono.
I have a few pairs of those forceps with cutters on em, they work good, most of the time. If not I carry a lighter, even did when I wasn't smoking. Then as a last resort I always have a knife.
832 was selling line with a pair of scissors in the package, they worked good a few times then needed to be sharpened.
I got the Boomerang cutters for Christmas, they are awesome!
Buck is supposed to have a new fishing tool for line and rings and other stuff. Rust proof as well
Quote from: Brocksdad1 on April 07, 2015, 11:48:45 AM
Buck is supposed to have a new fishing tool for line and rings and other stuff. Rust proof as well
Splizzors....they look cool but they are like 75-100 a pop so I won't be buying them anytime soon... lo
Quote from: MCS on April 07, 2015, 11:58:10 AM
Splizzors....they look cool but they are like 75-100 a pop so I won't be buying them anytime soon... lo
Hmmmm
I hadn't looked them up. Maybe eBay in the future.
Quote from: MCS on April 07, 2015, 11:58:10 AM
Splizzors....they look cool but they are like 75-100 a pop so I won't be buying them anytime soon... lo
They are coming out with a salt water version soon ..... add $80 to the base price. :shocking: :surrender:
Quote from: Pferox on April 07, 2015, 12:09:43 PM
They are coming out with a salt water version soon ..... add $80 to the base price. :shocking: :surrender:
Bwahaha
Probably not a single thing different, well maybe one thing. The price lol
I picked up some braid last night. I got some 50lb power pro from walmart. Im gonna try it out. I did electrical tape on the spool with about a 7 foot mono backer coming off the spool. Then a 5 foot, about, leader on the front. I used the double uni to connect the lines. And a uni the tie the bait on. Anything that doesnt sound right here?
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 12, 2015, 09:32:52 AM
I picked up some braid last night. I got some 50lb power pro from walmart. Im gonna try it out. I did electrical tape on the spool with about a 7 foot mono backer coming off the spool. Then a 5 foot, about, leader on the front. I used the double uni to connect the lines. And a uni the tie the bait on. Anything that doesn't sound right here?
Sounds like a good rig to me. Might want to keep an eye on the Uni Knot that you used for the leader, it might cut under heavy pressure. Next time try an Alberto knot, or one of the knots like that. The Uni for the lure is a good choice too. Everything else is spot on. If you are using mono under the braid on the spool, you don't need to put tape down, but it isn't a problem either if you do.
Quote from: Pferox on April 12, 2015, 11:05:10 AM
Sounds like a good rig to me. Might want to keep an eye on the Uni Knot that you used for the leader, it might cut under heavy pressure. Next time try an Alberto knot, or one of the knots like that. The Uni for the lure is a good choice too. Everything else is spot on. If you are using mono under the braid on the spool, you don't need to put tape down, but it isn't a problem either if you do.
I did a double uni for the connection of the leader. Idk if that makes a bit of difference.
Quote from: Jw7054 on April 12, 2015, 12:03:46 PM
I did a double uni for the connection of the leader. Idk if that makes a bit of difference.
That is the only way to do a connection with a Uni, it will work, just keep an eye on it.
I use 30lb power pro on my bait caster (frog and lure rod) and learned the hard way about why to put mono on the spool as a backer. ::) Hooked a good size fish and the next thing I knew no more line left. ~roflmao ~roflmao I was just learning how to use bait casters and braid line. Won't happen again. ;D
So i didnt catch any thing today but i didnt like the ability reel faster if i need to since no stretch and easier to break the leader since there is no stretch. Casting seemed a little better. I also liked that it didnt hold nearly as much memory.