16' Bass Attacker Restore ( Pic Heavy)

[Oldfart9999]

Rick, I hope it's not too late for a suggestion, I'd run larger tubing for the wire runs, you may want to add a circuit or 2 later for something, just leave a line to act like a fish if you do. What ever tank you decide on I'd slide it as far forward as possible and because tinboats set with the bow high would try to mount the trolling motor battery/batteries up front, just a couple ideas. It's coming along nicely!!!
Rodney

[Bigwrench]

Rick, I hope it's not too late for a suggestion, I'd run larger tubing for the wire runs, you may want to add a circuit or 2 later for something, just leave a line to act like a fish if you do. What ever tank you decide on I'd slide it as far forward as possible and because tinboats set with the bow high would try to mount the trolling motor battery/batteries up front, just a couple ideas. It's coming along nicely!!!
Rodney

Thanks brother !
  I'll actually have 2 of those pipes run from the rear battery to the front , with 2 sets of wires in each.  The 2 TM batteries will be in the front and the fuel cell will be mounted directly behind the seating area.
  So basically the fuel tank will be center mass about 4 ft forward of the transom, a cranking battery will be in the rear transom area probably starboard side and then one TM battery on each side or centered on the keel in the front of that makes sense ?
I am thinking if I go with the hot rod fuel cell I'll have to make sure there is one of this rollover check valves in the fill neck. It may have one but I know the coast guard regs are tough on fuel tanks and have to consider that also.  For the price and look as well as size I would rather have the aluminum one .

[Kris]

Probably too late now but you might want to run a couple of nylon strings in each of the tubes to make it easier to run a wire if you have to later.

[Bigwrench]

Probably too late now but you might want to run a couple of nylon strings in each of the tubes to make it easier to run a wire if you have to later.

That's a great idea also.
We had a minor setback today and ended up pulling the new transom out and will be making another one . While it was outside under cover (2 covers) water got in and directly on top of the laminated plywood and swelled it up a couple inches lol.
So out it came
Remember it was glassed in ? Lol well that stuff was tough and the new one will be glassed in also but also will be totally glassed all around to prevent any moisture from getting to any edge of the transom. No biggie , I had wood, resin and will have to buy another pelt of glass but it's gonna be right

[Bigwrench]

Today's other projects were deciding where the Tm batteries are going to be and running the wiring for that.  I used Ranger factory trolling motor wiring and drilled holes up the center of the beams and using more of that red tubing ran 2 lengths from the battery location to the bow plug location. 



These tubes are run underneath the recessed Tm tray location.
I will be making my 24v at the batteries and not the bow plug like most Rangers are.
  Most likely will use a hole saw to make the holes a little bigger and will be installing rubber grommets around the hole to help further isolate each individual circuit.
We also found the original swivl-eze seat bases that were damaged on removal and ordered replacement bushings, cleaned them and sanded them down and since they will be painted anyways we saved some dough there.  A little skim coat over the grind marks and they will be good as new.




We also found the original transom corner caps , 1 was already broken off a little so I cut them both to match and brush polished them

[Donald Garner]

Rick tks for the updates and pictures.  She's coming right along.

[Smallie_Stalker]

Ok let's get some of y'alls input here.
Im looking at permanent fuel tank options. Here's just two that I have considered.
12 gallon plastic, would have to buy the attaching straps for it separately . It is marine specific.

This one is more of a street/auto type but 18gallons and Aluminum , I'd have to weld attaching flanges to it. I'm pretty sure it could work.

So lay it on me.  What do y'all think ?
I like the aluminum more, they both come with level sensor. The plastic one is available from many places and maybe $20 less than that price.

I don't know if anyone chimed in on this. IMHO my only worry with the aluminum tank would be rust over the long term.

Glad to see you are doing well enough to be tackling these kinds of projects again.

[Bigwrench]

I don't know if anyone chimed in on this. IMHO my only worry with the aluminum tank would be rust over the long term.

Glad to see you are doing well enough to be tackling these kinds of projects again.

Yeah corrosion would be my concern also. Almost talked myself into the plastic Moeller tank that is made for this application. The price is a little higher but heck I'll just save up a little here and there and get that one. I do have a ton of tools I am probably going to be downsizing and can make some boat rebuild money that way for sure. Don't think I need 40+ air tools and 18 sets of wrenches lol.
    Not to mention numerous other duplicates etc that I have accumulated over the years. 
   5 tool boxes is a little much too here in the small garage lol.  Just need enough to piddle with here at home now.
  So if anyone's looking for tools you know where to send em lol.

  With the aluminum tank I would have had to retrofit some sort of fill neck for the hose to attach to and the Moeller is already set up to connect the big fill hose to. So most likely I'll just get that one that is coast guard approved.  Sucks that they don't supply the mounting hardware at that price though !

[Smallie_Stalker]

Sucks that they don't supply the mounting hardware at that price though !

I hear ya brother. When I did my Bass Tracker restore back in 2000 I learned that lesson. I remember that there were some switches I bought that didn't come with any of the mounting screws. I also bought a livewell and a Flow-Rite control system for it (The kind Ranger used back then) to allow for fill, drain and recirculate. None of it had any of the necessary hardware. 

If they can they'll find a way to squeeze every extra penny out of you that they can. 

[Bigwrench]

Not a lot to report except been practicing my welds and playing around with the different settings. 
Started out like this lol.

Had a blow out

Got a little hot !

But was able to make some progress later on


Just need some "seat time" and that works out good because I can sit down fairly easy now for a bit and I have all sorts of time
Stay tuned.

[Lipripper]

Looks like your starting to get the hang of it a little and it's starting to look more like a weld 

[Bigwrench]

Looks like your starting to get the hang of it a little and it's starting to look more like a weld 

Lol yep it's getting there and nothing but time and practice gonna make it better.


Also almost forgot !

Merry Christmas everyone !

[Lipripper]

To you and the family also Rick and nice looking set up around the fire place.

[Princeton_Man]

Rick, those beads are startin' to look good!

Reminds me of VoAg during my high school years. Back then all we had was a torch and stick welders. Sold my flux welder last summer. Now I want a TIG. 

[Oldfart9999]

  Thanks brother !
  I'll actually have 2 of those pipes run from the rear battery to the front , with 2 sets of wires in each.  The 2 TM batteries will be in the front and the fuel cell will be mounted directly behind the seating area.
  So basically the fuel tank will be center mass about 4 ft forward of the transom, a cranking battery will be in the rear transom area probably starboard side and then one TM battery on each side or centered on the keel in the front of that makes sense ?
I am thinking if I go with the hot rod fuel cell I'll have to make sure there is one of this rollover check valves in the fill neck. It may have one but I know the coast guard regs are tough on fuel tanks and have to consider that also.  For the price and look as well as size I would rather have the aluminum one .

Sorry to be so late getting back to you, the plan sounds good! Your welds are coming along, are you using a mig? Aluminum is harder to learn than steel but doable. Like your Christmas setup, hope it was a great one for you guys!!!
Rodney

[Bigwrench]

Sorry to be so late getting back to you, the plan sounds good! Your welds are coming along, are you using a mig? Aluminum is harder to learn than steel but doable. Like your Christmas setup, hope it was a great one for you guys!!!
Rodney

Rodney it's an AC Tig setup with 100% Argon.

[Oldfart9999]

Rodney it's an AC Tig setup with 100% Argon.

NICE!!! You'll be able to do some fine work with it!!!
Rodney

[Bigwrench]

Today I put Dad to work installing the newly sandblasted,welded and painted fenders as well as some traction tape to make stepping on and off them easier

We also ground the heads off any rivets that were sticking up above the floor framing

  This will allow the floor sheet to lay flat and stop any rattles (hopefully) 

  All of the existing framing will be welded solid and ground flat before the floor is installed.
I am also considering laying a strip of rubber across the floor joists in the lower deck areas

Which I hope will also quiet down the floor. Maybe something like a bike inner tube sliced longways ? Ideas welcome.
  Also need to decide how to attach the deck to the floor joists. 
   I originally wanted to use bolts that could be sunk flush but with the 1/8 aluminum floor I think that would be practically impossible to do and preserve the holding ability. So I think I have decided on rivets, I think that will work fine and still allow the floor decking to be removable with minimal effort later, if needed. 
  So here's some options I have on hand.


  They will have to go through two 1/8" and one 1/16" panels to fully attach to the main hull ribs.
We have a ton of options here and I like the holding capacity of these 1/4 "big daddy" rivets

But they would stick out above the deck more than these 3/16" low profile" models.

Side by side

Installed side by side comparison

Back side

So what y'all think ?
I believe I'll go with the low profile ones.

[Bigwrench]

We also ran the other wire tube up through the chine on the other side

Also any exposed wires for the TM or the main runs will be covered in conduit to prevent any type of rubbing situation with aluminum.
  We also repurposed the old floor framing that was removed before, cut them
In half and basically made double the floor frame joists for the front deck area using those old pieces

  These are already flanged out and can be welded wherever needed for hatch support and TM tray framing.

[Bigwrench]

The way it is now we can play around with hatch access locations

[Lipripper]

Making good progress 

[Oldfart9999]

Making process Rick! Try rubber tape instead of trying to cut up bike tubes and making them work, you can find it in the electrical dept at Home Depot or Lowes, lay it down and it's held by the glue on the tape.
Rodney

[Bigwrench]

Making process Rick! Try rubber tape instead of trying to cut up bike tubes and making them work, you can find it in the electrical dept at Home Depot or Lowes, lay it down and it's held by the glue on the tape.
Rodney

That's a pretty slick idea
I was going to use 3m weatherstrip adhesive to stick the rubber inner tube strips to the floor joists but the self sticking tape would probably work better and be quicker! Maybe even some of that sticky rubber roofing material that ya peel off the film to get it to stick ? Either way that just set me on a better path lol. Thanks brother.

[Princeton_Man]

Looking awesome Rick! True Bigwrench workmanship!

I'm going to toss in another suggestion. Instead of rubber which will deteriorate in a couple years, or tape. What about running a bead of 5200 across the joists/stringers and letting it cure. Once cured it will compress and conform with the weight of the deck. The calking gun size tubes aren't that expensive and the silicone should last decades.

[Bigwrench]

Looking awesome Rick! True Bigwrench workmanship!

I'm going to toss in another suggestion. Instead of rubber which will deteriorate in a couple years, or tape. What about running a bead of 5200 across the joists/stringers and letting it cure. Once cured it will compress and conform with the weight of the deck. The calking gun size tubes aren't that expensive and the silicone should last decades.

Heck thy would probably work also. That 5200 is some tough stuff for sure.
  I have 2 tubes left that were purchased way back when and I was able to get just enough out of one to finish the bunk boards with, I actually needed more and I grabbed another one  I can not squeeze them through the tube now (the bottom edges have hardened). I saved them because the center of the tubes are still "squeezable" and figure I'll cut the tube open and use it anyways lol.  I figure I can puncture the side of the tubes and dip my transom bolts in it before installing them.