16' Bass Attacker Restore ( Pic Heavy)

[Oldfart9999]

No, they was sending up smoke signals. They still livin' in Injin territory!!! 

Rodney

[Bigwrench]

Went ahead and made the dry box inserts for the 3 doors I ordered. Didn't know if anyone caught that but those 3 painted doors were ordered from R&R designs. They really are reasonable compared to the time and effort as well as material costs to make your own.
I ordered 3 as a trial run in the beginning because I wasn't sure if I'd be able to learn to make them and now that they are here I have the other doors completed already lol.
So dry boxes are made for 2 of the doors, tacked up and checked for fit.
Port Side





Starboard side



These were tricky to do since the port side is angled up towards the side and up towards the bow, the start boards side is the same but also I added in that large tube for wire runs through that side so I had to just step it over the plastic tube to gain clearance

  Now I have a dilemma with the Center battery box door I ordered.
After looking at this thing I am not happy with how I laid out the battery access door in relation to the size that the batteries take up.

It's extremely odd and out of place and if I box in the batteries then there will only be 5" or so on each side of the battery enclosure to get stuff inside the two side storage areas.
I have the doors set in place and the deck sheeting off so you can see what is going on better with this area

I stuck a piece of scrap on against the batteries to give an idea how much room will be available to access the holes to the left and right

What I am considering is boxing in this long door for the batteries with little cubby holes in each side for tools and stuff and then making a whole new door for this left area

And this right area


I'll close off the inside with the batteries smaller to give more room on each side through those two other doors to about where the edge of this scrap piece is sitting on top
So all this space will be available from each side, if that makes sense.

Since there will be no
Rod locker to the left side there's still some more space that can be used over there for more storage. 
Anyways that's what I been kicking around. I'd have to cut 2 smaller holes for each side in the deck plate but otherwise it seems like it would fix that issue.
Remember in the beginning the batteries were going one more compartment towards the bow, so the one big door originally was all access for storage. 
The only other option is to weld a filler panel back into the deck sheet (that big hole for the Center door) grind it all down smooth and then make a smaller hole and cut this new door shorter to fit just for the batteries. And then make a door on each side for storage. I want to keep the batteries isolated from everything else storage wise so either way would work I guess.  I'll sleep on it tonight and figure out what to do tomorrow after a doctor appt.
Thanks for hanging out.

[Lipripper]

Boy you have been busy  It's looking great though.

[Oldfart9999]

I would do those 2 small storage boxes and keep the big storage also, it's something you always run short of, it'll give more ways to balance out the load also. It's looking good Rick!!!
Rodney

[Bigwrench]

I think I have decided to install a separate smaller access door in the center for the two batteries and close that area in to isolate the two batteries also will have a venting system for fume buildup.
So here's what we did. Rotated the batteries in the opposite direction in the tray and used the current anchor locker door as a guide (it fit perfectly with very minor adjustments)


I temporarily pop riveted that door in place , then installed the deck plate again and the other locker boxes to make sure everything fit. I also made sure the batteries would come out of that door size lol. That woulda sucked later if not !

Going to fill in those two areas on each side heavy from the back side, flip it and fill in the front and then sand smooth and then make 2 more separate compartments on each side
Stay tuned gonna get interesting !
Also going to cut the big R&R door I ordered in half and it should work for the 2 side doors

[Bigwrench]

Pulled the deck plate and flipped it over on the truck bed , installed 2 scrap filler panels and cleaned, wire brushed and acetone the areas to be welded.
Used flush clamps at the corners to hold the plates flush with each other. Also used backing plates or cooling plates under the bottom to draw heat,  since I am going to be cranking up the amperage on these welds to get solid penetration from the bottom.  They also serve to support  he welded in section and prevent warpage.
    The top I can make look like there was nothing that ever happened but the bottom will be the strength of the welds. 

[Bigwrench]

Welded the back , flipped it over and welded the front





Quick coat of filler


Will final sand itbtomorrow with a DA and in-line sander and then etch prime it and should be fine !
  Was tricky because of the possibility of warpage and it was something I had to pay attention to often and also stopping to cool it as it went.

[Lipripper]

It's going to look great when it's all finished 

[Bigwrench]

It's going to look great when it's all finished 

Thanks brother , I hope so ! Now I have to cut 2 more holes and cut that big door in half and fix it and install them for more storage areas !
The filler probably won't hold since it is an area that is walked on regularly but thought I'd give it a shot to clean up imperfections from the weld/heat but will know more tomorrow once I hit it with the DA , besides the paint is going to be textured and thick so was probably unnecessary lol.

[Oldfart9999]

Rick that boat is going to a hand me down work of art. It's coming along very well!!!
Rodney

[Bigwrench]

Ok had the grand babies this weekend so not much got done but had a blast. 
But here's a little bit of progress
New door that I ordered and changed the design is about to get a facelift






The profile I need to duplicate





2 new frames ready to roll



Adding in the filler panel end for the door

And it's a done deal

Test fit in the new holes

Started on the framing also

Got it all welded up also and everything is solid as a rock and fits surprisingly enough
More tomorrow lol.

[Bud Kennedy]

Rick,  Been wondering just how heavy do you think your restored boat will be?

[Bigwrench]

Rick,  Been wondering just how heavy do you think your restored boat will be?

Lol I have also wondered the same thing. I will probably weigh it but a bigger motor may be in my future too
I have read data that shows the aluminum is much lighter than the plywood but it's been awhile too and I'd have to go back and research it all again. I'll probably run it somewhere and have it weighed too just to get an idea of exactly how heavy it is and if I need to go to a heavier spring set as well as a larger motor. I'm
Already seriously considering making my own jack plate so there's going to be all sorts of options for future growth.

[Oldfart9999]

Switching to an all aluminum deck should save 100-150 lbs of weight, means you can eat more. I'm beginning to think you should have built a boat from scratch!! It's coming alone nicely Rick, you'll be one proud fisherman when it's done!!!
Rodney

[Bigwrench]

It's really starting to come together now. Made another door frame today and since it turned out so nice I decided to use it at the TM battery location and put the old one back in the anchor locker position.

Tried the graph up front just playing around a little



     Things that need to be done still :
   Going to make a door for that new frame tomorrow and get the front and rear deck and all the hatches sanded down and ready for paint.
   Have to make those 2 dry box storage areas and close off the battery section and the hardest work is pretty much done.
     Will definitely get the bow panel area framed in and designed this weekend if nothing happens lol.
     It's time to start running wires , getting the interior lighting and tunes installed too
    Still have to build the one Center cap section for the transom board that attaches to the two corner braces, weather was nice today but gonna be nasty next few days so maybe this weekend will get it pushed outside enough to work that section.
     I have 2 pass-thru holes in the hull to weld up and seal off from the old bilge and freshwater intakes.
    Need ideas on where/how to install my fuel fill neck access. I am considering a recessed drop mount into the rear deck at an angle somewhere that can be accessed from the port side.
  Motor , Plate (jack plate,if used) needs to be mounted to the transom still
  Purchase complete steering system and dash/gauges still need to be designed and run
  TM mount and internal storage box/door for it needs to be installed/designed 
    I scored some awesome aluminum stock today when we hauled off an old washing machine to the recycling center, so have plenty of thick plate and some diamond plate to play around with too !!!
   Guy said he'd sell me anything I could find for $.80 a pound !!

   I am seriously considering making my own sliding jackplate so if any of y'all could take some detailed photos/measurements of yours (if you have one) and share them with me that would be a big help !

[Donald Garner]

Rick the boat is looking great.  Tks for sharing the pictures with us also.

[kodi2k6]

I have been running a 1985, 15' SeaNymph BassAttacker for last 30 years!  I love that boat, it has been garaged whenever it is not on the water.  She still has all the original carpet and plywood decking.  Outboard was up-graded from a 30Hp Johnson to a 4-stroke Honda.  A couple of different trolling motors have adorned the front platform.  I am going to miss the old boat but I am looking forward to the new 40th Anniv. Heritage boat in June.  The SeaNymph has to find a new home.

Sure looks like you are going to busy for quite a while restoring your little gem.  :-)  I wish you the best of luck with your project!

[Bigwrench]

Rick the boat is looking great.  Tks for sharing the pictures with us also.

Thanks brother, it's been really fun. I'm keeping Dad pretty busy lol. He had become my back and legs through this recovery and the boat rebuild. I think he is regretting moving down here now lol.

[Bigwrench]

I have been running a 1985, 15' SeaNymph BassAttacker for last 30 years!  I love that boat, it has been garaged whenever it is not on the water.  She still has all the original carpet and plywood decking.  Outboard was up-graded from a 30Hp Johnson to a 4-stroke Honda.  A couple of different trolling motors have adorned the front platform.  I am going to miss the old boat but I am looking forward to the new 40th Anniv. Heritage boat in June.  The SeaNymph has to find a new home.

Sure looks like you are going to busy for quite a while restoring your little gem.  :-)  I wish you the best of luck with your project!

Thanks so much ! Glad to hear from other Bass Attacker owners. I have seen a few around the web and really like the bare bones of the boat.  They seem to be rock solid and this one, hopefully will be "bulletproof" and last me and my sons/grandkids 30 years also !! 
From what I have seen this one is rated for a max 70hp ?
My plate is illegible now and trying to get a replacement.

[Deadeye]

I see I might be a little to late but, I was going to suggest if you think you already have enough storage, to instead consider filling that area on each side of the Battery Compartment with Expanding Foam.

When you fill all those areas with your "stuff" add 200 =/- lbs for the batteries, then add your own weight and maybe the weight of another person----- your going to need something to help you out a little IMO.

I would fill both of those areas with expanding foam and just plate the top instead of another door. That would give you a little more Side-to-Side support as well as better Upright Flotation Support.

I would also figure out where to do the same in the Rear area deck/transom. My old boat had foam in the "crossbar" that held the seat and I ended up adding to foam filled pans to the bottom of the transom to help with keeping the weight of 12 gallons of gas and the motor up.

Funny thing is I found a newer version of my boat and the live well area was about half as big and filled in with foam and the battery area was all foam.

Just my thoughts and it is your boat.

[Oldfart9999]

It's looking better and better Rick!!! It's me but I would mount that Lowrance higher so I could turn it up to see the screen better. Could you put me in your will?
Rodney

[Bigwrench]

I see I might be a little to late but, I was going to suggest if you think you already have enough storage, to instead consider filling that area on each side of the Battery Compartment with Expanding Foam.

When you fill all those areas with your "stuff" add 200 =/- lbs for the batteries, then add your own weight and maybe the weight of another person----- your going to need something to help you out a little IMO.

I would fill both of those areas with expanding foam and just plate the top instead of another door. That would give you a little more Side-to-Side support as well as better Upright Flotation Support.

I would also figure out where to do the same in the Rear area deck/transom. My old boat had foam in the "crossbar" that held the seat and I ended up adding to foam filled pans to the bottom of the transom to help with keeping the weight of 12 gallons of gas and the motor up.

Funny thing is I found a newer version of my boat and the live well area was about half as big and filled in with foam and the battery area was all foam.

Just my thoughts and it is your boat.

There's going to be lots and lots of flotation foam, for sure. It's been in the back of my mind the whole build. Granted I'm going to have to get creative with the placement of the foam since I have added so much extra storage. My ultimate plan is to have the entire front deck filled with expanding foam and the closed cell foam to make it one solid piece but the thing I still have to work out is the lower section of the hull where the chines run, I do not want them full of foam. I want water to be able to drain back to the bilge area freely. Previously the boat had the majority of the foam in the rear sections and I think if my calculations are correct there will be around double the cubic feet in the front than there was before.
  My thoughts to stop the drainage problem from occurring again would be something along the lines of a screen mesh laid over the hull strakes and then a 8 mil plastic (I have a 4X10' sheet of .040 5052 aluminum that may come into play for this) layer on top of that to stop the foam from expanding into the chine drains. I want to isolate a 1/2-1" area above the hull to allow water to drain freely to the rear.
    With this setup I will have to make sure my floor drains are plumbed directly to the chines below the flotation foam.
   I will also have to make sure everything is accessible (wiring especially) for future repairs if needed. A complete hull breach would be the only reason to dig out the foam later and if that happens I guess I'll have bigger issues to worry about but it won't sink lol. 
     All the storage doors lips and the TM tray will have drains installed strategically with tubes running to the chines as well. The master plan is for the entire deck to be sealed from the elements and with ability to hose it off and all the water be directed where I want it in the end without water ever touching any of the foam. I like the ability to pull up to a car wash and rinse the boat out before heading home. This would also be beneficial in a heavy rainstorm situation.
  Either way keep the ideas coming as I am sure there are things I am overlooking or will have to change as this progresses.
I'll try and figure out exactly how much area I have for foam installation soon and make a photo overlay of the areas for a visual reference.

[Bigwrench]

It's looking better and better Rick!!! It's me but I would mount that Lowrance higher so I could turn it up to see the screen better. Could you put me in your will?
Rodney

Yeah I don't really like it the way I did that and that ultimately would be where it would be if I went with the Multi-angled bow configuration. It would be sorta flush mounted to that one 15 1/2" Center section.
  Which kinda puts me back into the modified V configuration and a Ram or raised mount over the TM tray for the graph mounting.
  As far as the "will" goes I can add you into the "line of succession" kinda like for the British throne you'll be down on the list like these two fellers lol #45 & #46

But hey your in there now LOL. 

[Oldfart9999]

Yeah I don't really like it the way I did that and that ultimately would be where it would be if I went with the Multi-angled bow configuration. It would be sorta flush mounted to that one 15 1/2" Center section.
  Which kinda puts me back into the modified V configuration and a Ram or raised mount over the TM tray for the graph mounting.
  As far as the "will" goes I can add you into the "line of succession" kinda like for the British throne you'll be down on the list like these two fellers lol #45 & #46

But hey your in there now LOL.

Yeah, I like my unit turned almost flat, it's easier to read, for me at least.
Rodney

[SFL BassHunter]

Looking good so far!