Deep cycle battery relocation

Started by scbassfanatic, January 18, 2017, 09:57:45 AM

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scbassfanatic

I have a 2005 PT 175. I am seriously considering relocating my deep cycle batteries to the front of the boat, specifically to the smaller compartment on the front deck. I am concerned as to what negative effects this will have. I am running 2 group 27s currently. I can see the positives being less amperage draw due to shorter wire run and it will allow space in the rear compartment to add another cranking battery, I am in the process of adding 2 Helix 9s and think the current group 24 will be an issue. What do you guys think. i know i will lose some storage up front, but that compartment is a poor design anyway. Will moving those 2 batteries up front cause me any issues. The boat has a Merc 50. I can only do 30 - 32 mph now. Thoughts?

fishandkamp

I suggest doing this. Put two batteries in that compartment. Install 4 total onboard. Launch the boat and see how much it will affect your hole shot. Another option is to run larger wires from front to back for your trolling motor. The larger wires will cut down on resistance and thus lower the amount of current loss in system. Can you fit 3 batteries in the back compartment?  If so move up to group 31s. That is what I have in my Lowe Stinger 170.I use 3 group 31 Cabelas AGMs.

scbassfanatic

I currently have 2 group 27 Deep Cycle and a group 24 Cranking in the rear compartment. There is no more room at all. I had to relocate the charger to make that work. I dont have an issue with current draw from the TM. I just mentioned that as a plus. I am forecasting an issue once i get the Helix 9s hooked up. That group 24 is going to struggle i am afraid.

Kris

The only problem moving the batteries up front will make the bow lower in the water and possibly harder to load on the trailer.  I agree with Bob, I would try putting two batteries or equal weight up front and see what it does.  I think most modified V aluminum boats are bow high anyway but I could be wrong.
I have two Group 29 batteries in the stern of my aluminum boat for my bow mount, MK Edge 55, and two Group 29 batteries in series for my MK Traxxis transom mount.  As you can tell, I fish a lot of drinking water reservoirs.  My boat is 16 foot with 8 AWG wire running to the bow.  I may be putting two more batteries up front in my boat for the bow mount so I can use 36 volts for a different transom mount motor.
If you are looking to get more trolling motor time I would move up on battery size to Group 29/31 if they will fit.  Is there any additional space in length width or height?  I don't believe a Group 29 DC battery is much bigger.  I checked the internet for a size chart and there isn't a lot of difference.  Good luck with your project.  Any questions, just ask, somebody will answer.
Reservoir fishing in MD, Vietnam Vet, Retired
Ouachita 16' Model B, Minn Kota, Lowrance, Raymarine
Moderator - Maryland Fishing Reports and Chat

Oldfart9999

Pull the 2 tm batteries and place them in the front compartment, make sure they can't move around then put the boat in the water and try it. Your cranking battery should be a cranking/deep cycle and I would upsize it to a 29 or 31, specially if you do keep the tm batteries in the bow. The boats like yours I've seen are bow high so I don't think it'll hurt and may help, specially in the wind. I would think you could 35+ with a 50 on that boat.
Rodney
Old Fishermen never die, their rods just go limp.

scbassfanatic

Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate it. I think I am going to do the test run to see what how it does with handling and loading. I honestly never thought about how it could be beneficial in the wind. That is definitely a plus because that thing is an absolute kite on the main lake. I was thinking of having a total of two batteries for starting purposes. Plus moving them in this matter will make it easier to get to all of them. At the moment, pulling those Deep Cycles out is a real PITA. I have a lot of battery stuffed in that small space. The drawback is battery charges. i have a second two bank that i was given from a friend. I have no idea if it works or not.  I will give it a try. The original two bank has served me well. If all works out i will run the two charges. If not, i will get a battery tender for the second starter battery. Thanks again for the input. Much appreciated.

basss

I have my trolling and fish finder's (Helix 7s) batteries in the front compartment of my pro v 16 and have not noticed any ill effects.  I think you'd be fine.
1995 Gheenoe Highsider
2018 12' Bote HD Paddleboard

scbassfanatic

Thank you, i appreciate your input. Now if i can just get a decent day to hit the water LOL.

Oldfart9999

Quote from: scbassfanatic on January 19, 2017, 11:11:40 AM
Thank you, i appreciate your input. Now if i can just get a decent day to hit the water LOL.
Let us know how it works out for you.
Rodney
Old Fishermen never die, their rods just go limp.

scbassfanatic


cojab

Looking forward to hearing your results. I have been thinking of doing this as well. I have a 98 PT 185 and I agree, there is no room to upsize batteries in the back.

One of the issues I also wondered about was the battery charger. I really didn't want to have two chargers to plug in. I had considered moving my three bank charger up front with the TM batteries and getting an extension to run to the crank battery in the back. I know they make the extension but I'm not sure if there is a limit as to how far you can run it.
TTK has spoken.

scbassfanatic

I am not sure of how far you can run the charging leads. My charger was only a two bank from the start, so i am currently running my on board for my DC batteries and a battery tender on my starting. I have another two bank, so if it works i will add it to the system. It won't be any more than I am having to do now.

I didn't get to try it out yet. I finished up the install of my new graphs and wanted to try them out for a bit. I had a 4 hour window between bad storms to get in a little time on the water this weekend.

scbassfanatic

Well, it has been a year since I talked about doing this. Actually forgot about this post until I did a Google Search. Wooops. Started the project last week. Hope to have it completed by the weekend so I can try it out before my first tournament of the year. I didn't do the test run before I made the decision to move them. So... there is that. Hope I don't regret it. Two problems I encountered. (1) The leads from the TM were not long enough to reach the batter location. I added 4 feet of 6 gauge to the equation. the down side is I now have a spliced connection on those wires. (2) I noticed the floor of that compartment is a little less sturdy than I had imagined. I don't know what to do about that at the moment. And of course as with any other project I start, little side projects emerge that I must deal with before I can complete the original. A day in the life of a bass fisherman I suppose.

Oldfart9999

Let us see some pics of the project if you are able, we might be able to offer you some good suggestions.
Rodney
Old Fishermen never die, their rods just go limp.

scbassfanatic

I will try to get some when I get home. The reinforcement of the floor of the box was not as difficult as I thought it was going to be. I got some aluminum angle cut to fit the width of the floor and used self-tapping sheet metal screws to attach to the floor and wall for support. Today, I plan to install the batteries and connect them to make sure everything works alright. I wish I could make the connection to the TM without a splice. I have my concerns with that. One of the leads was soldered. This being my first soldering attempt, it is not pretty but it holds. I had such a hard time with that one that I got a butt splice connector for 6 ga from my electrician neighbor. The only way to accomplish continuous wiring was to rewire all the way to foot control connections. That appeared to be more involved than I am comfortable with.

scbassfanatic

Quote from: scbassfanatic on February 16, 2018, 09:07:21 AM
I will try to get some when I get home. The reinforcement of the floor of the box was not as difficult as I thought it was going to be. I got some aluminum angle cut to fit the width of the floor and used self-tapping sheet metal screws to attach to the floor and wall for support. Today, I plan to install the batteries and connect them to make sure everything works alright. I wish I could make the connection to the TM without a splice. I have my concerns with that. One of the leads was soldered. This being my first soldering attempt, it is not pretty but it holds. I had such a hard time with that one that I got a butt splice connector for 6 ga from my electrician neighbor. The only way to accomplish continuous wiring was to rewire all the way to foot control connections. That appeared to be more involved than I am comfortable with.
I need help fellas. Moved the batteries. Hooked them up for 24 volts. Hooked the charger up and it's like fourth of July on one battery only when connecting the charger leads. Charger worked fine on the bench. Ideas?

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Sandman7925

Quote from: scbassfanatic on February 16, 2018, 04:29:52 PM
I need help fellas. Moved the batteries. Hooked them up for 24 volts. Hooked the charger up and it's like fourth of July on one battery only when connecting the charger leads. Charger worked fine on the bench. Ideas?

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You have wires crossed. Pun intended


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scbassfanatic

Quote from: Sandman7925 on February 16, 2018, 05:47:25 PM
You have wires crossed. Pun intended


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I'll check again in the morning. I thought for sure they were correct. I had No problem until the jumper was connected.

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