Understanding Your Electronics for Florida Guys, Teach & Learn

Started by Deadeye, April 10, 2020, 04:30:47 AM

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FD

Quote from: FlatsNBay on April 12, 2020, 05:30:15 PM
Because of my outdoor writing, I've been fortunate to fish with and observe several Florida professional anglers. A couple of things that was interesting was: I was with one of the MLF pros and we were zipping across Istapoga doing 70+ and all of a sudden he slowed down and did a 180. I asked him what he was doing and he said that he thought he saw something on his depthfinder. The water depth in the area was probably around 7'. For the next 30 minutes we idled back and forth trying to find a high spot that he thought he saw. Lesson learned to always watch your depthfinder and not just your chart, even on your home water.

The next scenario happened while I was fishing with a different pro to work on a couple of articles. We were on the Harris Chain and he spent a lot of time looking for submerged hydrilla beds on his side imaging. When he found them, we would cast at these submerged targets. My takeaway on this one was the importance of a deep isolated hydrilla patch.

I have so much to learn and am enjoying all of your input on this topic!

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The exact reason I put the H5 in my dash on the rebuild.  It is a comparably small screen but it's dedicated to 2D sonar and since it's on a thru hull transducer, I get bottom reading up to 50 mph.

I'm always looking for that little wrinkle in the bottom or offshore vegetation that's only a foot tall.


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BarryFL

Great point about offshore, submerged hydrilla. Like FD, I always run 2D when moving around for the same reason. A little hydrilla patch can make a huge difference. There is a Timmy Horton show taped at Toho where he finds offshore hydrilla. Kills them on Carolina rig and lipless, IIRC.
~Barry~

Deadeye

I also run 2d or Standard Sonar when running. For one thing it is the best to maintain contact with the bottom. DI or SI usually only work when running 7 mph or less.

I like you guys have the Shoot Through Puck that runs my 2D on my Dash Unit. I have it set that way. The Transducer that came with the Unit does all 3 but looses Bottom contact very quickly. The Puck holds much longer and I had to adjust the Settings to make it read 2D with it.

WTodd

Fred - you and need to discuss losing bottom. I had the same problem but figured it out; now I'm good up to my top end of 53 mph


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FD

Quote from: Deadeye on April 13, 2020, 08:16:13 AM
I also run 2d or Standard Sonar when running. For one thing it is the best to maintain contact with the bottom. DI or SI usually only work when running 7 mph or less.

I like you guys have the Shoot Through Puck that runs my 2D on my Dash Unit. I have it set that way. The Transducer that came with the Unit does all 3 but looses Bottom contact very quickly. The Puck holds much longer and I had to adjust the Settings to make it read 2D with it.
SI and DI require too much information to process at speed.

The problem with 2D at speed is turbulence. I have my H10 transducer mounted on the hull step to protect it from debris when running.

Walt changed his so he can use only one unit in any situation.


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BarryFL

Found some good thermocline images, if you're interested.

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=1047663

Lee, the reason I said yours looked like filter was because of how clean it was above 2.5ft.

I see images like the first (red cluster in deep hole) at PCMH early in the mornings.
~Barry~

Deadeye

Quote from: WTodd on April 13, 2020, 08:50:54 AM
Fred - you and need to discuss losing bottom. I had the same problem but figured it out; now I'm good up to my top end of 53 mph


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I remember you moved yours around until it found a sweet spot.

Care to expand on that?

On mine through the bottom I can hold most bottoms up to 35-40. However super soft I still loose contact.


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Deadeye

Quote from: FD on April 13, 2020, 09:30:12 AM
SI and DI require too much information to process at speed.

The problem with 2D at speed is turbulence. I have my H10 transducer mounted on the hull step to protect it from debris when running.

Walt changed his so he can use only one unit in any situation.


If you don't have pieces leftover, you didn't put it back together right...
Mine is tucked under the step as well.


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WTodd



Fred

For my transducer there 2 different mounts, a plastic one and a metal one; obviously I have the metal one because the plastic one I had on originally pulled out the first time and broke the second time. Bass Pro had to do the fiberglass, repainting and gel coat twice.  After that they installed the metal one which I modified.

In looking at the first pic you can see the brackets I made to drop the transducer down; it took 2 tries to get it right.  The brackets are made out of marine grade aluminum; the nuts and bolts are stainless. This TotalScan transducer is notorious for getting an air bubble around it causing you to lose bottom but it appears that it's fixed; I haven't lost bottom since I put these brackets on. The first brackets I put on I lost bottom at around 33 mph so I dropped it 1" and viola.


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BarryFL

My through hull 2D will hold bottom at WOT (57-60mph). Only time it hasn't was running on Toho and went through a 1.6ft (below the hull) area. :(
~Barry~

Deadeye

Quote from: WTodd on April 13, 2020, 02:34:52 PM


Fred

For my transducer there 2 different mounts, a plastic one and a metal one; obviously I have the metal one because the plastic one I had on originally pulled out the first time and broke the second time. Bass Pro had to do the fiberglass, repainting and gel coat twice.  After that they installed the metal one which I modified.

In looking at the first pic you can see the brackets I made to drop the transducer down; it took 2 tries to get it right.  The brackets are made out of marine grade aluminum; the nuts and bolts are stainless. This TotalScan transducer is notorious for getting an air bubble around it causing you to lose bottom but it appears that it's fixed; I haven't lost bottom since I put these brackets on. The first brackets I put on I lost bottom at around 33 mph so I dropped it 1" and viola.


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Interesting. Most are mounted on the Step for protection, hope it doesn't get picked off.

Deadeye

Quote from: BarryFL on April 13, 2020, 03:27:38 PM
My through hull 2D will hold bottom at WOT (57-60mph). Only time it hasn't was running on Toho and went through a 1.6ft (below the hull) area. :(

I installed the new one in the same spot as the old one was. To do correctly they suggest placing it then running the boat and keep moving it until you find the sweet spot.

I'd bet they did that for those MLF boats.

WTodd

Fred

That was the first place they put it when it ripped out. I looked at videos and pics to see where it needed to go and this appeared to be the place and it's also where Barry's is installed and Lowrance installed his. So far so good.


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FD

Quote from: BarryFL on April 13, 2020, 03:27:38 PM
My through hull 2D will hold bottom at WOT (57-60mph). Only time it hasn't was running on Toho and went through a 1.6ft (below the hull) area. :(

You need to stop cutting across Browns Point.  ;D
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WTodd

And I was following him......one of those "oh sh!t" moments when you're doing in the low 50s and your shallow water alarm goes off


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FD

Quote from: WTodd on April 14, 2020, 11:14:03 AM
And I was following him......one of those "oh sh!t" moments when you're doing in the low 50s and your shallow water alarm goes off


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At that point you Trim up, Pucker Up and Hammer Down.

That trail has a bar across it on the south end that gets real shallow between now and June 1 because of the yearly drawdown.  But at 70 mph I only need about 10" of water to skip across it... ;D
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WTodd

I never let off the gas


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BarryFL

Quote from: FD on April 14, 2020, 10:23:21 AM
You need to stop cutting across Browns Point.  ;D

How'd you know that? :)

Came up fast!!!
~Barry~

Bud Kennedy

here is a question for you Floriday Cowboys.  With your shallow mud puddles that you folks fish.  What good do you electronics do for you in what appears to be a common condition.  Is it really worth spending thousands and thousands on uber capable systems if you really don't need them.

FD

Quote from: Bud Kennedy on April 14, 2020, 01:02:58 PM
here is a question for you Floriday Cowboys.  With your shallow mud puddles that you folks fish.  What good do you electronics do for you in what appears to be a common condition.  Is it really worth spending thousands and thousands on uber capable systems if you really don't need them.

You would be shocked at just how much useful info you can get with good electronics in less than 10 FOW.

It's just as much about eliminating bad water as it is about finding active fish.  If you ever get your old self down here I'll show you.
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Capt. BassinLou

Quote from: Bud Kennedy on April 14, 2020, 01:02:58 PM
here is a question for you Floriday Cowboys.  With your shallow mud puddles that you folks fish.  What good do you electronics do for you in what appears to be a common condition.  Is it really worth spending thousands and thousands on uber capable systems if you really don't need them.

In some of our cases, these electronics came packaged when we purchased our boats. One thing is for sure, its better to have these electronics than not.

BarryFL

Quote from: Bud Kennedy on April 14, 2020, 01:02:58 PM
here is a question for you Floriday Cowboys.  With your shallow mud puddles that you folks fish.  What good do you electronics do for you in what appears to be a common condition.  Is it really worth spending thousands and thousands on uber capable systems if you really don't need them.

Bud, good question. My boat came set-up for MLF and the electronics were basically free when considering showroom boat versus minimally used, fully equipped, installed by professional for professionals. Electronics aren't the be all end all but are another piece of the puzzle. I wouldn't have ordered all the stull and paid retail but since its there, I'm putting it to use.

When you coming down to get the 'poka trip taste out of your mouth? Invitation stands.
~Barry~

Deadeye

Quote from: Bud Kennedy on April 14, 2020, 01:02:58 PM
here is a question for you Floriday Cowboys.  With your shallow mud puddles that you folks fish.  What good do you electronics do for you in what appears to be a common condition.  Is it really worth spending thousands and thousands on uber capable systems if you really don't need them.

That is a belief that is simply not true.

Harris has depths of 20+ that I've found on just the few times I've been there.

The St Johns River from Sanford to the mouth in Jacksonville has a old shipping channel that runs from 10 to 20 plus feet.

I've found what I believe to be Spring Holes with depths of 64+ feet.

Even with a 4-10 ft depths the more I'm learning the better I understand just what it is I'm seeing. Bottom compounds, and why that matters. Drops and Contours. Valleys within the lake bottom that lead to productive feeding areas. Areas that I knew of and fished because I  caught fish there and now understand WHY and what to look for to duplicate that elsewhere.

I'm like a kid with a New Bike that just had a whole new world open up to me, got my mind whirling now processing the data I've been feeding it.


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BarryFL

All of the FWC WMAs that are flooded strip mining areas have some 20ft + depths with humps, holes, what not. I need to take the time to learn to fiish them but the other areas are so productive...

~Barry~

~Barry~

topdsm0138

Quote from: BarryFL on April 15, 2020, 06:12:39 AM
All of the FWC WMAs that are flooded strip mining areas have some 20ft + depths with humps, holes, what not. I need to take the time to learn to fiish them but the other areas are so productive...

~Barry~
We have a few "holes" like that in Lake Okeechobee as well. Old dynamite blast mines. It's also where you'll fund some good Specks at.

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