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Author Topic: Baitcaster question  (Read 4061 times)

tmarsh83

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Baitcaster question
« on: March 18, 2007, 03:45:26 PM »

I feel kinda stupid for asking this question, but what is the best type of line to use on a baitcasting setup.  I have been using mono, and someone told me that the problems I have been having, (backlash, tangles) are because baitcasters don't use mono, when i was what they do use, he said, i dont know, thats why i stay away from them.  Any help would be appreciated, sorry to waste your time with such a freshman question.
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OHbassaholic

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2007, 04:28:00 PM »

I'd have to say that the baitcaster is much more forgiving than a spinning reel when it comes to the line types they will handle.

I used nothing but mono on my baitcasters until 3 or 4 years ago.  It's going to be one of those things you will have to decide through trial and error which line you will personally prefer.  As far as the backlashes, it's all about getting your thumb educated.  If you are having backlash challenges, tighten the tensioner and/or add brakes until you have your thumb trained to handle otherwise.  When you put the practice time in, you will be able to turn the brakes completely off and have the tension as low as it will go without having side to side slop in the spool. (for pitching)
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CJ Basser8

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2007, 05:13:04 PM »

I have found that a copolymer line works best for me.  P-Line Flouroclear is pretty much my go-to line, although I am excited to use the new Evolution line...it seems that it dosn't have much memory
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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2007, 05:13:43 PM »

i dont want to step on anybodys toes here but your buddy doesnt know what he is talking about. Like OHb said above baitcasters are the most forging to line, just not the most forgiving to anglers. set youur reel correctly and dont try throwing it a mile untill you get practiced stopping the reel.   shawn

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2007, 05:30:30 PM »

I too agree with what has been said, and don't worry about a "freshman question."  It's a question that you need an answer for, pure and simple.

I teach quite a few people each year to use a baitcaster in my guide service.  I used to use mono line, but since superbraid lines like PowerPro have come out, I've stopped using mono on baitcasters for several reasons.  The one that's pertinent to your question is this.

Mono is seriously weakened each time it's kinked and what happens each time you backlash?  You kink the mono.  With braid like PowerPro, it can be kinked all day long and it won't be weakened.  I used to spend a small fortune in mono line, replacing it almost weekly because a client would backlash the reel and the line would be kinked.

Since I've made the switch, that isn't an issue at all and one spooling of PowerPro will last as long as two seasons, depending upon how much I cut and re-tie.

My suggestion would be to fill your spool with 30 or 50 pound PowerPro.  It will have the same diameter roughly as 12 - 14 lb. mono.  Just remember that after you tie the line to the spool, put a piece of electrical tape over the line to secure it to the spool and prevent line slippage.

The backlash and tangles is because you probably don't have the reel's cast control knob and brakes adjusted properly.  Well, that and you just need to practice with the reel.  :)

Steve
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tmarsh83

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2007, 05:47:16 PM »

Thanks fellas.  He's no buddy by the way, just a guy that thinks he knows alot about everything, haha.

Thanks for input.  I have been playing with the adjustments and everything, trying to get it right, but, thought I would ask anyway just in case he was right, and some sort of line might help. 

Thanks again.

Trent
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OHbassaholic

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2007, 07:01:03 PM »

I agree wholeheartedly with OutdoorFrontier's assessment of the Power Pro braid.  I honestly did not lose a single lure to line breakage last year using my rigs that were spooled with this braid.  Although, I should correct that in that I did strip off some plastics when I straightened the hook.  :shocking:

This line is super castable and the abrasion resistance is superior as well, just to add to his points.
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bassfishing5

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2007, 08:03:46 PM »

I started out on mono too, but had similar problems. I did some reading and tried some fluorocarbon. I actually got the yo zuri hybrid and even though I still get backlashes from time to time, it casts much easier than the mono. I'm going to give a few other lines a try eventually, but the yo zuri was helpful in my transition to using a baitcaster. As others have said, make sure your brakes are set and learn how to thumb the line. Even manuals that come with reels are enough to get an idea about how to fine tune your rig. Another thought is to avoid putting a lot of line on. I simply know my longest comfortable casting distance and add a little extra for new knots and in case some fish takes me for a ride.
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Bass 24 7

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2007, 08:16:28 PM »

One thing I see novice baitcast fishermen do is try to cast something lighter than the rod is designed to do.Don't try to cast a 1/4 or 3/16 or less on a rod rated for 3/8-1 oz. Don't swing it or wing it hard on the cast,let the rod tip load up and do the work.You should be able to sling a 3/8 oz spinnerbait 15-25 yds easy without a big windup.Watch jimmy houston chuck a spinnerbait,nice and smooth,just a little  forearm flick ,and it's on a mission.Start out using heavier weight,and get the feel of it,and work your way down to lighter baits.
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-Shawn-

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2007, 11:27:42 PM »

One thing I see novice baitcast fishermen do is try to cast something lighter than the rod is designed to do.Don't try to cast a 1/4 or 3/16 or less on a rod rated for 3/8-1 oz. Don't swing it or wing it hard on the cast,let the rod tip load up and do the work.You should be able to sling a 3/8 oz spinnerbait 15-25 yds easy without a big windup.Watch jimmy houston chuck a spinnerbait,nice and smooth,just a little  forearm flick ,and it's on a mission.Start out using heavier weight,and get the feel of it,and work your way down to lighter baits.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    this is really important tmarsh the right rod will make long cast a lot easier, and at the end of the day you will not be feeling nearly as tired.

GRAPEAPE

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #10 on: March 27, 2007, 01:34:09 AM »

Glad to find this thread.  I have 2 identical combos, 1 with silverthread 12lb, and the other with vanish transition 10lb.  The Silvethread backlashes like crazy, and the one with the transition I can't hardly get it to backlash.  Is this due to the co-polymer vs Fluro?  If so what are some recomendations on some cheaper fluro, I like the Vanish Trans.  but wow they are sure proud of it.
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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #11 on: March 27, 2007, 01:39:43 AM »

The p-line is reasonably priced and I really Like the castabuility. shawn

Jerry Holston Jr

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2007, 01:43:54 AM »

Alot of good advice.  I run primarily power pro in 40lb on three of the BC i use and then 15lb Berkley big game mono on the other two that i use for cranking and things.

Ya iam alot better than i used to be and have been setting rods up and buying things like guys say if the set up is right you can zing anything with just a flick of the wrist and no big overhead tiersome casting.

Set your reel tension up for starters were you hold your rod tip up and relese the spool and it comes down slow and gradual and when your lure hits the ground the spool stops.  This will help in the beginning and as you get comfortable make it go faster and faster and have more control with your thumb.
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Mike Cork

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #13 on: March 27, 2007, 05:58:12 AM »

Glad to find this thread.  I have 2 identical combos, 1 with silverthread 12lb, and the other with vanish transition 10lb.  The Silvethread backlashes like crazy, and the one with the transition I can't hardly get it to backlash.  Is this due to the co-polymer vs Fluro?  If so what are some recomendations on some cheaper fluro, I like the Vanish Trans.  but wow they are sure proud of it.

What kind of reels are these? Sounds like you have the brake set different on each of them? which it should be for different lures  ;) Line can make a difference but usually not that much. Lure weight is a huge factor, as well, adjust your casting brake to a stronger setting for the one you are having backlash troubles on.
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GRAPEAPE

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #14 on: March 27, 2007, 11:38:40 AM »

What kind of reels are these? Sounds like you have the brake set different on each of them? which it should be for different lures  ;) Line can make a difference but usually not that much. Lure weight is a huge factor, as well, adjust your casting brake to a stronger setting for the one you are having backlash troubles on.
  BPS tourney specials.  One is a 7ft MH with the silverthread, I use this one for spinnerbaits, buzz baits, carolina, and light flipping.  The other is a 7ft M that I use for crankbaits it has the vanish on it.  The brake is set for the individual lure that I am using at the time. I have adjusted the brake to the point where the lure doesn't move when you hit the button.  even when the reel is set up tight the silverthread still backlashes.  I'm gonna pull the line off later on before work, and replace.  I'll let ya'll know with what and how it goes.
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OHbassaholic

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #15 on: March 27, 2007, 12:46:49 PM »

My suggestion before you strip that line would be to switch out the baitcasters to try them on the opposite rods.  Might be an eye opener for you...
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Nickk

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #16 on: March 27, 2007, 01:16:43 PM »

My suggestion before you strip that line would be to switch out the baitcasters to try them on the opposite rods.  Might be an eye opener for you...
are heavier rods harder to cast and more prone to backlash for someone with less b-caster experience(like me)?  I'm planning my second baitcaster setup for soft plastics and was going to go with a MH for soft plastics, specifically a 7' Crucial MH.  Will that drive me nuts?
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Bass 24 7

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #17 on: March 27, 2007, 08:35:51 PM »

Heavier rod throwing light weight/baits is tough if, a)you are learning,b)it is windy,c)you are trying to get distance with a & b.If you are throwing Fluoro,it is heavier than mono,and needs brake adjustment.Remember,let the rod do the work.Let the tip load up,and flick that lure.Most over runs are from incorrect brake setting,and throwing/casting way to hard.
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OHbassaholic

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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #18 on: March 27, 2007, 11:37:32 PM »

are heavier rods harder to cast and more prone to backlash for someone with less b-caster experience(like me)?  I'm planning my second baitcaster setup for soft plastics and was going to go with a MH for soft plastics, specifically a 7' Crucial MH.  Will that drive me nuts?

You need to experiment to figure out what settings (tension/brakes) will work best for you with any given combo.  Personally, I found that I do better with less tension and turning on a couple brakes (centrifugal) when using MH rod with fast action tip.

I agree with Bass 24 7 about letting the rod load up instead of trying to power cast with your arm.  This is especially true when you are in the first stages of learning to use a BC.  If you let the rod do the work you will have much less frustration with professional overruns.  ~shade
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Re: Baitcaster question
« Reply #19 on: March 28, 2007, 02:00:58 AM »

My suggestion before you strip that line would be to switch out the baitcasters to try them on the opposite rods.  Might be an eye opener for you...
Ok I tried this.  I figured that swapping would be easier then stripping and rewinding.  It was the line.  I continued getting backlashes like crazy.  While I was stripping the line it had serious twist in it, take some tension off it and it would knot itself up like a spinning rod.  Stopped and picked up some p-line CXXX co-polymer.  Huge difference!  15 casts in a row with 3/8 spinnerbait no backlash.  I think the silverthread had been sitting on the spool for a decade and wasn't giving up the memory.
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