Baitcaster Casting Help

Started by Bass_Newb, April 19, 2009, 09:30:20 AM

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Bass_Newb

I  have been using a Baitcaster ( Quantum KVD 7:1 Burner ) with 12lb mono and a 6'6" med. heavy rod for a couple mo. now and able to  cast a majority of the time without nesting.  Now the issue I'm having is to different things 1) accuracy   when I side arm cast  ( right handed ) I want it to go straight in front of me but it shoots off to the right at a sharp angle how can i fix this.  And the 2nd issue is when ever I over hand cast it  goes out about  10 - 15 ft an straight in the water which then I nest up almost all the time.  what  can i do  to  improve distance an accuracy????     ~xyz
Wish I Was Fishin

OutdoorFrontiers

Casting accuracy is all a matter of timing the release of the spool within the arc of the cast.  Part of the problem might be the rod you're using.  A medium/heavy rod has very little flex, especially with lighter weight lures.  The rod is critical to the cast and it's the flex of the rod that casts the lure.  If the rod isn't flexing a lot, (and M/H rods don't) then you're going to have to apply more muscle to flex the rod to make the cast.  And most casting issues come from people trying to muscle the lure waaaay out there.  That's why I usually suggest to a beginning baitcaster to begin with a medium light or medium rod.

But, ya gotta dance with who ya brung, so let's move on.....

It's quite simple really, if you're casting sidearm and the lure is shooting off to the right, you're releasing the spool too late in the cast stroke.  Simply release the spool earlier in the cast and the lure will be going out straight.

If the lure is hitting the water ten to fifteen feet in front of you, you're once again releasing too late, driving the lure into the water and causing a backlash.

Forget about distance for now.  What you need to concentrate on is your casting form and timing.  If you are going to cast sidearm, practice getting the lure to go out in front of you.  Don't worry about distance, simply work on getting your timing down so the lure goes out in front!  Once you are doing this consistently, and you don't even have to think about when to release, now you can add power to the equation and increase the distance of your cast.  Once you're doing this, you're halfway to accuracy as well.  Accuracy is a matter of being able to evaluate the distance to know the proper amount of power to apply to the cast, as well as having the hand/eye coordination to know when to apply thumb pressure to slow down/stop the lure.  This doesn't come overnight.  It's going to take a lot of practice.

Casting overhand for some reason seems to really stymie people.  Most people do as you, drive the lure into the water at their feet.  This is nothing more than a matter of timing and the release.  For now, don't worry about distance or if your casts look like they're being lobbed from a mortar, you're working on timing the release earlier in the cast so that the lure DOESN'T hit the water in ten feet!  Again, once you're able to cast for at least a dozen casts without drilling the lake, now you can start applying some power to the cast and work on distance.

People playing baseball for the first time don't hit the ball every time, and those that are learning golf practice at the driving range a lot before heading out on the course, why should using a baitcaster be any different?  Practice in the backyard with the hooks removed from an old lure. 

Accurate casting of a baitcaster is like hitting a home run or driving a golf ball down the center of the fairway, it's a matter of timing and muscle memory.  This doesn't come overnight or without practice.

Steve
Steve Huber OutdoorFrontiersTv

-Steve-

I couldn't have said it better myself. Timing and Practice makes perfect. Oh, and once you get decent with it, you'll still backlash on occasion, it happens to everyone. The trick is learning yourself and your tactics to be able to catch it when you do mess up and not backlash half the spool. I've had 50-75 yards of line on the deck before I got it all out (what a mess) and dealt with tangles reeling it back in...Steve
\My Mind is a Library Full of Worthless Information\

WRBass

#3
A simple and effective way to eliminate or at least reduce a severe backlash is add enough spool resistance to allow the lure weight to slowly drop when you depress the release and remove your thumb. When learning to cast ; pull off 35 yards of line, then wrap the reminding line on the spool over with one wrap of plumbers Teflon tape. Then rewind on the 35 yards while running the line between a wet towel to add moisture and very light line tension. The tape will prevent the spooled line from loosening, then you are only casting 35 yards of tight line.
The medium heavy rod doesn't mean much without the "action" identified; action is how fast the rod bends. Most bass rods are fast action; they bend like the letter J, upper 1/3rd of the rod does most of the bending. Cranking rods are slow to modified action; they bend in a more even arc from the first guide to the tip, called parabolic action. Today most mfrs just call this type of rod a "crankbait rod", which are the best action to learn to cast with.
WRB

OutdoorFrontiers

Quote from: WRBass on April 19, 2009, 03:24:32 PM
A simple and effective way to eliminate or at least reduce a severe backlash is add enough spool resistance to allow the lure weight to slowly drop when you depress the release and remove your thumb. When learning to cast ; pull off 35 yards of line, then wrap the reminding line on the spool over with one wrap of plumbers Teflon tape. Then rewind on the 35 yards while running the line between a wet towel to add moisture and very light line tension. The tape will prevent the spooled line from loosening, then you are only casting 35 yards of tight line.
The medium heavy rod doesn't mean much without the "action" identified; action is how fast the rod bends. Most bass rods are fast action; they bend like the letter J, upper 1/3rd of the rod does most of the bending. Cranking rods are slow to modified action; they bend in a more even arc from the first guide to the tip, called parabolic action. Today most mfrs just call this type of rod a "crankbait rod", which are the best action to learn to cast with.
WRB

Adjusting the reel's brakes are very important to reduce the liklihood of a backlash, that's for sure.  But that doesn't address the casting accuracy problem that Bass_Newb is experiencing.  His problem is based totally on casting timing and proper release during the casting stroke, and that IS a function of the rod.

You are right about the way a rod bends, but any rod of a heavy power, irregardless of the action is going to be slightly more difficult to cast as it requires more effort, more power and more weight (of the lure) to get the rod to load and cast properly.

Bass_Newb, take a look at the rod label and read the lure weight range.  While you're practicing, make sure that you're using lures that are closer to the upper end of the range versus the lower.  Most people having problems with baitcasters are having difficulties because they use too light of lures.  Lightweight lures are the most difficult to cast with a baitcaster, to go heavy for now.  A heavier lure will load the rod tip better and make casting much easier.

Steve
Steve Huber OutdoorFrontiersTv

v1per

I don't understand these parts.......1) accuracy   when I side arm cast  ( right handed ) I want it to go straight in front of me but it shoots off to the right at a sharp angle how can i fix this.......and then this.......if you're casting sidearm and the lure is shooting off to the right, you're releasing the spool too late in the cast stroke.    ~read  Wouldn't Bass_Newb  have his lure going to the left at a sharp angle if he was releasing the spool too late in the cast stroke? Or am I missing something here?  ~b~ Seems to me that if the lure is shooting off to the right it is being released to early. and the problem is just getting the timing down of thumb release on the spool and that will just come with practice, practice and even more practice Bass_NewB. I hope I don't offend ya there OutdoorFrontiers as I like the info in your answers, but for some reason this just doesn't sound right to me. Maybe I should go take a nap!  ~roflmao
Be the Ultimate Bass Fisherman and support Ultimate Bass!!!

WRBass

Quote from: OutdoorFrontiers on April 19, 2009, 05:01:42 PM
Adjusting the reel's brakes are very important to reduce the liklihood of a backlash, that's for sure.  But that doesn't address the casting accuracy problem that Bass_Newb is experiencing.  His problem is based totally on casting timing and proper release during the casting stroke, and that IS a function of the rod.

You are right about the way a rod bends, but any rod of a heavy power, irregardless of the action is going to be slightly more difficult to cast as it requires more effort, more power and more weight (of the lure) to get the rod to load and cast properly.

Bass_Newb, take a look at the rod label and read the lure weight range.  While you're practicing, make sure that you're using lures that are closer to the upper end of the range versus the lower.  Most people having problems with baitcasters are having difficulties because they use too light of lures.  Lightweight lures are the most difficult to cast with a baitcaster, to go heavy for now.  A heavier lure will load the rod tip better and make casting much easier.

Steve
Anyone should be able to cast a 1/2 to 5/8 weigh or lure with a baitcaster, using med/hvy with fast action rod. Being able to cast accurately side arm is another issue altogether. Try a modified side arm cast with the rod at 45 degrees from the water. The lower the rod tip gets to the water, the more extreme the casting angles become and less forgiving. The lure weight will help to determine the rods "power rating", the amount of weight it takes to fully load up the rod.
If you want to cast under overhanging obstickles; use the loop cast or roll cast, same cast with different name.
WRB

BackYardBassJunkie

Quote from: v1per on April 19, 2009, 05:40:53 PM
I don't understand these parts.......1) accuracy   when I side arm cast  ( right handed ) I want it to go straight in front of me but it shoots off to the right at a sharp angle how can i fix this.......and then this.......if you're casting sidearm and the lure is shooting off to the right, you're releasing the spool too late in the cast stroke.    ~read  Wouldn't Bass_Newb  have his lure going to the left at a sharp angle if he was releasing the spool too late in the cast stroke? Or am I missing something here?  ~b~ Seems to me that if the lure is shooting off to the right it is being released to early. and the problem is just getting the timing down of thumb release on the spool and that will just come with practice, practice and even more practice Bass_NewB. I hope I don't offend ya there OutdoorFrontiers as I like the info in your answers, but for some reason this just doesn't sound right to me. Maybe I should go take a nap!  ~roflmao

I agree.  I think he meant that it shoots off to his left...  Unless he's back handing it.  

Try adding some inline weight so it gives your rod a little more reflex.  Try 1/8 ounce increments until you get a comfortable "snap" release.  This will vary greatly depending on your total rigging weight.  Just play around until you get more comfortable.  Accuracy will come.  Just make sure you note what total weight works best for you and adjust as required when switching up bait types.

Also, if you have some fishing buddies with a medium rod...ask if you can cast it a few times.  You'll find it easier/more accurate to cast than a MH with lighter rigs.

OutdoorFrontiers spelled it out best though.  Just adding my $0.02.   :)

tnhikr44

Quote from: OutdoorFrontiers on April 19, 2009, 05:01:42 PM
Adjusting the reel's brakes are very important to reduce the liklihood of a backlash, that's for sure.  But that doesn't address the casting accuracy problem that Bass_Newb is experiencing.  His problem is based totally on casting timing and proper release during the casting stroke, and that IS a function of the rod.


I am not so sure about this statement. As a brand new user of a baitcaster I am not so sure he has the 'brake' adjusted properly. I have nine different rods and they all have different tendencies. Some have soft tips, others are as stiff as a broom stick. Granted I adjust each associated reel differently... but the problems Bass_Newb is experiencing is probably due to an over tightened 'brake'. I have experienced all of the problems he is explaining before I 'tuned' my 'brake' to the rod and lure I am currently using. My guess is that he has not gotten used to 'thumbing' the spool as he casts.... to prevent backlashes yet get the most out of the cast. There is a fine line there... between a backlash from h*ll and the perfect cast. It takes tons of practice to ride that fine line... and the rod has just a little to do with it, in my opinion.

goodrat79

It may be your brakes too tight.  I'm not sure.  I've never used the acs II.  But I do have the Energy with infinite acs.  when I was trying to teach my buddy how to cast he wanted to try mine so I adjusted the brakes heavier for him since I mostly just use my thumb anymore. and he had the same problem.  So maybe lighten the brakes one click and adjust your tension tigher as you do it and then try it.  If it works a little loosen the tension and try it that way.

Brute

One thing that helped me when I started using a baitcaster was to cast overhand using both hands on the rod.
That way you don't have to concentrate on holding on to the rod and releasing the spool.
Try it you might like it.

Brute

Bass_Newb

Thanks  alot  guys  was  getting  really  confident  in  casting except  those  issue  headin  back out to the  lake Tue. an try and  adjust ................  V1per you  where right  I  miss typed I  did  mean to the left. 
Wish I Was Fishin

islandbass

Quote from: Bass_Newb on April 19, 2009, 09:30:20 AM
I  have been using a Baitcaster ( Quantum KVD 7:1 Burner ) with 12lb mono and a 6'6" med. heavy rod for a couple mo. now and able to  cast a majority of the time without nesting.  Now the issue I'm having is to different things 1) accuracy   when I side arm cast  ( right handed ) I want it to go straight in front of me but it shoots off to the right at a sharp angle how can i fix this.  And the 2nd issue is when ever I over hand cast it  goes out about  10 - 15 ft an straight in the water which then I nest up almost all the time.  what  can i do  to  improve distance an accuracy????     ~xyz

Those are tell tale signs of your release time needs a bit of adjustment

Whether you side arm cast and it shoots to the right and landing shortly in front of you as you described are clear signs that the time that your thumb is coming off of the spool is a later than it should be. If on an overhand cast the lure shoots up with a rainbow like trajectory, that is a sign that you let go too early.

If you are coming from a spinning reel background, that is part of the challenge. I used spinning reels before learning to use a casting reel and I immediately discovered that I had the same experience.

In addition to that it is also even of greater importance to properly load the rod during the cast.  The is where you allow the lure's weight (or practice weight) to flex the rod backward and let the rod do the work vs. the angler flicking the rod forward befroe the lure gets a chance to load the rod. Such casts can end in a backlash. Unfortunately with spinning rigs, you can get away with not having to do this (load the rod). 

Also, for the sake of learning, use something at least 1/2 in weight that is not a spinnerbait or buzzbait. Matter of fact, a bass casting weight is ideal to practice with because you preserve your lures and there won't be any hooks involved and they're dirt cheap. In addition, the use of a heavier weight makes it easier to learn the right time to release the thumb from the spool.

Back to casting.  The release time of the thumb off of a casting reel's spool is ever so slightly earlier than your forefinger coming off of a spinning rod's blank.

Imagine yourself in the middle of a clock with 12 o'clock directly above you, 9 o'clock directly in front of you and 3 o'clock directly behind you.  The position on this clock for an overhand cast at which your thumb comes off of the spool is going to be somewhere between 12:30 and 1 o'clock.  It WILL feel funny and awkward, but focus on letting your thumb off in that window.

Learning to load the rod is also very important. Letting the rod do the work allows you stave off  fatigue too.  Go through the motions of an overhand cast but DON'T let your thumb off of the spool feel the weight of the lure flex the rod. Do this multiple times letting the rod flex backward and forward. Now that you have an idea of this flex, make a real overhand cast.  Feel the rod load and release your thumb at the time said above and watch a beautiful cast.  Sidearm casting is the same.

Good luck and stick with it.
ARX - IB's Daughter on BC Reels:
"Papi! I like this reel. It is so much easier to use than the other one (the spinning reel) and it is more fun to use too." Now all I can say to that is this;
"That's my little girl!"

WRBass

There are a lot of internet sites with baitcasting help and I'm sure this site can be searched under rods & reels.
http://www.fishing-tackle-repair.com/education/-101.HTML is a fairly good tutorial.
WRB