What's going on with my curado?

Started by bassmaster3541, May 08, 2012, 09:40:51 PM

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bassmaster3541

Fist of all, I have it spooled up with 15 lb invisx, and have a citica spooled up with the same line. I have tried all different lures with it, so I don't think that is what the issue is. If I take a full cast and really whip it out, every single time it backlashes, and I nearly never backlash with any other reel. The angler I fished with last tournament suggested I might have too much line, so I took the mono backing off and it just the fluoro now, and it is still having the same problem. My citica has more line on it than the curado, so I feel like I would be having the same problem (if not worse) with the citica. I suppose I can try taking off a little more line, but on a tight budget I hate to be cutting off expensive line and wasting it if that isn't even the problem.
Any ideas on what may be going on?
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aaronis

Do you have any brakes on?  Is the spool knob too lose?

TreyB55

Need to set the magnetic brake higher
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Mike Cork

There are several factors that cause like reels to require different settings. Just because your citica works great at a certain spool tension and brake setting doesn't mean your curado will handle the same settings.

Even identical reels, say curado's, right out of the box brand new. Can require different settings. One major factor is lubrication. To much or to little.

First, I would take the spool out and inspect the shaft for smoothness, in your situation I'd expect it was fine. Then put a single drop of reel oil on it and wipe it down with your finger spearing that drop of oil across the shaft. Put the spool back in. Next set the spool tension. I do this by backing the tension knob off until I can rock the spool side to side inside the reel frame. Then slowly tighten the tension knob until the side to side movement stops.

Next set four brakes to the breaking position.

Make a cast and see what happens. If you still backlash add additional breaks. If you don't but don't archive the distance you need lock a brake out. And continue to lock brakes out until you find a setting that gives you distance with spool control.

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BassBUFF

What Mike said! But I also noticed you said "If I take a full cast and really whip it". You might try backing off on your "swing". Curados will cast a mile with minimum input from the angler compared to most other reels. Just a thought as I had the same thing happen when I stepped up to the better equipment from the less expensive reels.

E5Zero

In addition to what Mike said, take a Q-Tip with a bit of alcohol on it and run it around the inner surface where the brakes make contact.  Could be some excess oil on there that is effecting the braking.

There are a series of really good videos on Youtube on cleaning a Citica 200D, it applies to the Curado as well.  They recommend just a touch of oil off of a Q-Tip on the end of each brake.

And yes better reels do require less work!
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bassmaster3541

The tension knob started out pretty loose and while having this problem it has gradually now gotten as tight as it can go, just trying to keep it from backlashing and it still has been, so it being too loose is not the problem.
I will have to give the oil a try.
Bassbuff, if I wind my cast back it does helpa bit, but it still does it. a small backlash compared to a big one isn't much of a win  lo like winning  an ugly contest
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Mike Cork

Hum, if the spool tension is as tight as it will go, you either have a rocket arm or there is another issue? Like missing washers on the spool shaft ends?

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earldogg

Line twisted when u spooled it. I use that line and it has to be spooled really straight if not u get line twist and no matter how good u are with a baitcaster it will bird nest on u. Put a jig on cast itand let all the line ouut and reel it in, do this a couple of times it should straighten it out a bit.gl

Pro Reel

Quote from: Mike Cork on May 09, 2012, 09:17:46 AM
Hum, if the spool tension is as tight as it will go, you either have a rocket arm or there is another issue? Like missing washers on the spool shaft ends?

I would guess that you have already dimpled the heck out of the tension spacers or even drilled through them. There is never a good reason to have the cast tension cap set as tight as it will go. If you need it set even a little tight, the first thing you should do is use more centrifugal brake tabs set on or a higher mag dial setting for mag reels. I often see posts that seem to sugest that using less brakes is an indication of ability and something to strive for. There fore I often see guys that only have 1 or 2 brake tabs set to the on position. That would be fine if they could use the reel like that wiht the tension set loose, but 99% of the time thats not the case. They will have the tension set very tight to be able to use it like that. What happens when you do that is the reel slowly gets harder to use and you keep tightening up the tension knob until you are where you are now. You should be able to make a very long cast with no overrun with that reel with a gentle cast, if you can't, then it's time to replace the tension spacers or flip them over if they are not destroyed and then clean the bearings. After that, set all 6 brake tabs on and learn to use the reel with very little tension. You reel will thank you with long and consistent casts.

bassmaster3541

Quote from: Pro Reel on May 09, 2012, 12:38:54 PM
I would guess that you have already dimpled the heck out of the tension spacers or even drilled through them. There is never a good reason to have the cast tension cap set as tight as it will go. If you need it set even a little tight, the first thing you should do is use more centrifugal brake tabs set on or a higher mag dial setting for mag reels. I often see posts that seem to sugest that using less brakes is an indication of ability and something to strive for. There fore I often see guys that only have 1 or 2 brake tabs set to the on position. That would be fine if they could use the reel like that wiht the tension set loose, but 99% of the time thats not the case. They will have the tension set very tight to be able to use it like that. What happens when you do that is the reel slowly gets harder to use and you keep tightening up the tension knob until you are where you are now. You should be able to make a very long cast with no overrun with that reel with a gentle cast, if you can't, then it's time to replace the tension spacers or flip them over if they are not destroyed and then clean the bearings. After that, set all 6 brake tabs on and learn to use the reel with very little tension. You reel will thank you with long and consistent casts.

This may be more detail than you want to give the time to give me, but can you dumb basically all of that down for me? hahaha. I am by no means an expert on reels, I pretty much just tighten or loosen  the knob to where I need it and fish it. This may make me sound like a moron, but by what you said, it sounds like there is tabs inside the reel somewhere that I can add/take out? if so I didn't even know this was there. The reel is basically brand new, I have had it for a little while but never fished it much, I just put it on a nicer rod a couple weeks ago and have been having these problems with it, and this is pretty much the only use it has had.

If you don't mind taking the time, could you explain where the stuff is you were talking about in your post and how to do it?
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bassmaster3541

Quote from: Mike Cork on May 09, 2012, 09:17:46 AM
Hum, if the spool tension is as tight as it will go, you either have a rocket arm or there is another issue? Like missing washers on the spool shaft ends?
If there is missing washers, it came brand new missing them, I haven't taken anything off of it
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Pro Reel

Well, first off, the tension washers I referred to are not something that just anyone can change. It's not that they are hard to get to, but you need to know how to do it. One is inside the cast tension cap. That's easy to see. Unscrew the cap and look inside. In that reel, there should be a square fiber disk and it should have a rubber disk under it as a cushion. If there is a noticeable dent or divot in the disk, it needs turned over. If the divot looks to be more than half the thickness of the disk, then it needs replaced. The other disk is in the brake side cover. It's not so easy to get to. It's under a bearing in the center of the side cover. You have to use a pick or needle to lift the wire bearing retainer out. The retainer is shaped like a pentagon, to remove it, you need to hold the reel inside a large clear plastic bag, then trap one side of the wire with your thumb and pry the other side up. Then lift it out. Now you will need a tool to pull the bearing. If you have a small pick with a 90 degree bend on the end, that will do it. If not, build one out of a small paper clip or a T shaped stick pin. Just bend a very tight 90 on the end and stick it through the center hole of the bearing and lift it out. Now, you can see the other tension spacer disk at the bottom of that hole. If the reel is as new as you say, then I may be completely wrong about the disks being dimpled, but they will not last very long at all with the tension set that tight. Now, do you understand about the 6 plastic pins on the spool that are adjustable brakes? Many people don't even know there reel has them. On your reel, you open the side cover and they are right there. To set them, you use a fingernail to click them out so that they slide freely on the pins. Try to set them in a uniform pattern for balance. If I had to set the tension as tight as you say, then I would set all 6 pins to slide freely and then set the spool tension loose.
Now, I should add something that I often forget to mention. There is a right way and a wrong way to open and close your side cover. You need to remember to loosen the tension cast control cap before you open the side cover, and then reset your tension after you have closed the side cover. If you have the tension set tight, and then open the cover and close the cover, you can put enough pressure on the tension disks to ruin them, you can even damage the spool shaft. So just remember to make it loose enough that the spool slides back and forth before you open the side.

bassmaster3541

Quote from: Pro Reel on May 10, 2012, 07:35:50 AM
Well, first off, the tension washers I referred to are not something that just anyone can change. It's not that they are hard to get to, but you need to know how to do it. One is inside the cast tension cap. That's easy to see. Unscrew the cap and look inside. In that reel, there should be a square fiber disk and it should have a rubber disk under it as a cushion. If there is a noticeable dent or divot in the disk, it needs turned over. If the divot looks to be more than half the thickness of the disk, then it needs replaced. The other disk is in the brake side cover. It's not so easy to get to. It's under a bearing in the center of the side cover. You have to use a pick or needle to lift the wire bearing retainer out. The retainer is shaped like a pentagon, to remove it, you need to hold the reel inside a large clear plastic bag, then trap one side of the wire with your thumb and pry the other side up. Then lift it out. Now you will need a tool to pull the bearing. If you have a small pick with a 90 degree bend on the end, that will do it. If not, build one out of a small paper clip or a T shaped stick pin. Just bend a very tight 90 on the end and stick it through the center hole of the bearing and lift it out. Now, you can see the other tension spacer disk at the bottom of that hole. If the reel is as new as you say, then I may be completely wrong about the disks being dimpled, but they will not last very long at all with the tension set that tight. Now, do you understand about the 6 plastic pins on the spool that are adjustable brakes? Many people don't even know there reel has them. On your reel, you open the side cover and they are right there. To set them, you use a fingernail to click them out so that they slide freely on the pins. Try to set them in a uniform pattern for balance. If I had to set the tension as tight as you say, then I would set all 6 pins to slide freely and then set the spool tension loose.
Now, I should add something that I often forget to mention. There is a right way and a wrong way to open and close your side cover. You need to remember to loosen the tension cast control cap before you open the side cover, and then reset your tension after you have closed the side cover. If you have the tension set tight, and then open the cover and close the cover, you can put enough pressure on the tension disks to ruin them, you can even damage the spool shaft. So just remember to make it loose enough that the spool slides back and forth before you open the side.
Ok so I open up the side cover and the 6 plastic pins will be right there? I will give that  try first, I never even knew that was there, thank you for the info. That should probably help, and if not I will give the other stuff a try. Thank you very much for your time
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E5Zero

One more thought, if you do not have any info on the reel, you can probably get it off of Shimano's website.
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DelMarAlan

Could be your fluro, i bought vicious fluro in 25lb for flipping, and it worked fine at first but after a few weeks, it was nest after nest, curado 200g7, i put good old 50lb power pro back on, casts like butter, rarely nests unless i hit something mid cast.
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