Hey guys. I'm picking up my first boat in a couple weeks. I bought a 1988 Ranger 395V. It's in really good condition for it's age. After taking it out on the lake for a test drive, I decided that I'd like to replace the guages with more modern guages. I have a few questions...
1. Has anyone done this with their older boat? Did the modern guages drop into the guage plate?
2. Does anyone sell new guage plates?
3. Any suggestions of brands for the guages and do I necessarily need all of them at this point?
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Potentially, if it's more pain than it's worth, I may just shine up the gauges and make a new gauge plate. If someone already makes a blank, I'd prefer to buy one than trace and water jet or cnc a new one.
Ranger is pretty good about having parts, I'd check with them on the face plate. As far as the gauges again you could get them from Ranger but it will be cheaper to buy on line and believe most are standard sized.
An idea about your face plate is to take it and have it dipped or you could even do it yourself with camo or whatever cool colors your like best.
Quote from: Ron Fogelson on February 18, 2016, 09:34:21 PM
Ranger is pretty good about having parts, I'd check with them on the face plate. As far as the gauges again you could get them from Ranger but it will be cheaper to buy on line and believe most are standard sized.
I agree call them up and at least see if it is available for sure. I called on my 1990 330V and talked to Sherry, they didn't have my exact one but she told me I'd have to send my old one in and they would make me one. I never did but I did try to do it myself and it turned out ok but would a been much nicer with the engraving on it
Before
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The original pattern on yours should be "Walnut Burl"
Thank you. I'll call them tomorrow and see if they have it. If not, I guess I'll make one. We have laser cutters and water jets at work so I can just cad the shape and cut it.
Do you have any suggestions on a brand/manufacturer for the gauges?
Ok. I called Ranger Parts. They require for me to make a template and send it to them and then they will make a replacement panel for me. If I go that far, I might as well just do it myself.
I'll post pictures of how this goes as I work on it. I think I'll go with a nice anodized aluminum plate with laser etching as a replacement.
Sounds great look forward to the pics ~c~
Thanks. The dipping idea is an interesting idea also. We do that here in the building as well. I don't know how to do it myself but maybe I'll give that a shot.
Great suggestion.
My idea was originally to use 2 pieces of material, solid white underneath and the walnut burl on top and then have someone engrave the writing in and then the white would show up easily on the walnut burl background. I contacted a local trophy shop who engraves all sorts of stuff and he was willing to give it a shot but then we found out his engraver bed only would handle up to 14" pieces and the plate was too big so I was stuck with no switch markings like the original . you may be able to come up with a way around it though where you work. keep us posted !
BTW I ordered the walnut burl in a 4x8 sheet from Berrys home center , was very reasonable on price, I still have a bunch left if you live close enough
No kidding?!?! I'll buy it and if you'd like me to cut and engrave one for you, I'd be more than happy to. Our lasers handle 28" x 40".
I think I'm going to eliminate a few gauges from my dash, more like yours. I just don't think I need all of that.
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I'm picking this boat up on Monday night. Anything I should check for or service before I take it out? The gentleman I'm buying it from says that it doesn't need service until May or June but I'd hate to blow up my motor because I just didn't take precautions. Should I just take it into have it serviced for safety-sake?
Have it checked before you drop the $$$$$ could save you a lot down the road.
I have a 1987 Ranger 360V and my dash panel looks like yours does. I am presently working on doing away with the bench seat and replacing it with seats from Bass Boat Seats.
After the seat is taken care of I am going to do something with the dash panel. I am going to keep all the gauges so I intend to cover it with some exterior grade woodgrain vinyl. This stuff is kinda like the old woodgrain on station wagons back in the day. Still available on Ebay and other places. Burlwood to Oak to Mahogany. Good luck with you decision. i will probably replace all the gauges with Faria Gauges eventually.
I too have an old boat and motor. Mine is a 1991 Ranger 365V and up until a year ago I had not experienced any problems whatsoever. That all changed and resulted in a lower unit rebuild followed by a powerhead replacement. Fact is that your boat like mine is old and as a result of this age your motor has to be suspect. It is not if but when you will experience a problem and it will not give you any notice if a problem happens. Now you have to decide if you really want to spend a bunch of money in an old boat when indeed the motor repair will be about equal to the value of the boat.
I actually wanted to re power with a new rude but spending 12 - 15 K on a new motor does not make sense for a boat only worth about $4K to start with. Obviously it has no value without a motor but the expense has to be considered. I am 70 years old so buying a new boat or spending all that money is just not something I am willing to do at this point of my life.
Now you have to consider all the other probable expenses for bilge and live well pumps, Gauges, VRO failures, batteries, etc, etc, etc.
So the short answer is.......Have the motor and systems totally checked out by a reputable service shop. You might be purchasing from a friend but this is business and you need to consider the consequences.
Thanks so much. I'm taking the boat into a local shop to have the motor gone through. They will also do a visual hull inspection to make sure there are no obvious problems.
Check the transom, that yr still used wood.
Everything checks out okay after some minor work (tune-up) on the motor. I need to change some of the toggle switches on the console because someone must have replaced 2 position switches with 3 position switches at one point. It becomes confusing.
My buddy and I have a tournament next weekend so I built a temporary deck extension today at lunch. It should be fine for this tournament. I will pull it out and replace it with an aluminum version that will have a door and compartment built in.
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I think that I will tackle the dash plate after this tournament.
Just a reminder that some of those switches on the dash are supposed to be 3 position. Your dash looks just like mine and several are three position.
I'll be able to tell when I pull the dash. Some of these are definitely not intended to be 3 position that are. They work but the additional non-functioning 3rd position just makes it confusing.
i have an 82 375v .... postmortem - is your glove box stock or homemade ?
I'm not certain. The guy I bought from isn't the original owner. There are similar wooden pieces under each of the graphs so I think they are homemade.I'm going to replace them with a more modern approach.
FYI, the glove box door is a factory standard and is not homemade. Here is a picture of my boat showing the glove box.
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I'll have to look into that....mine is wood with a ranger emblem, but is rectangle ( no angles) and a little smaller.... could use replacing....the guy i bought my boat from mailed ranger a template of the dash plate and has a new one ( with the birdseye maple- or whatever its called- woodgraine) shipped back to him with all holes drilled- said it was a very easy process
Hey Bud. Great looking boat! What windshields are those? Mine are cracking and need to be replaced.
Quote from: Bud Kennedy on March 05, 2016, 07:28:05 AM
FYI, the glove box door is a factory standard and is not homemade. Here is a picture of my boat showing the glove box.
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the windshields are also factory standard. About 5 years ago I thought about replacing them and ranger had some in stock for about $100.00 ea. I probably should have bought them. My windshield are not cracked externally but have some fractures internal to the plexiglass. Not a big deal but would be nice to have some new ones. I have looked at aftermarket windshields but none really have measured up to fit the right way. By the way, you have to buy them as port console or starboard console.
I talked to Ranger Parts on Friday. They have more on order. I'm wondering if the more rounded windshields will work on my mine. I don't know if mine are original or aftermarket.
This is the old girl as she currently stands. I moved her to work last night so i could built that temporary deck extension. There are a few thing wrong with it but this is still a nice solid boat.
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Ok. I need some help. I know this is probably really stupid and simple but here it goes. This is my first boat. I had some fuel issues on the lake this first trip out and I guess I'm very unclear of how to fill the tanks and what the switches do. I kept getting low fuel indicators on the tanks and I stalled out from lack of fuel pressure. etc. It was a nightmare.
There are 3 gas caps on my boat. Port, Starboard and one at the back Port side.
There is a switch that controls the Port / Starboard fuel tanks.
There is a switch that controls the Auxilliary Fuel On / Off
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When the fuel switch was in the "Starbard" position, and the "Auxilliary" switch was "ON" the boat would run fine for a while and then stall even while going 30mph. I would have to pump the bulb until I had pressure again and then it would do the same thing. I switched to "Port" and the fuel level showed low but ran fine with no problems. If I didn't have the Auxlliary switch "ON", the fuel level always read as low fuel.
That morning, when I tried to fill the tanks, I filled the Port rear gas tank with 13 gallons of 89. I tried to put gas into the Port and Starboard side gas tanks but they acted like they were already topped off. What am I doing wrong?
Please help.
Lets see if I am understanding your "terminology" correctly. When you refer to fuel switch are you talking about the switch on the front of the bench seat or are you talking about the fuel switch on the dash?
I note that my starboard tank also does not take fuel as well as the port side but just have to go a little slower sometimes. Must be some form of venting issue but I don't know where it is and have not really worried about it too much. Probably should do that some day now that the boat lives here instead of down at the lake.
My fuel switch at the front of the bench seat has the aux position to one side and the tank selection is either towards the top or to the side opposite the aux. Just can't remember which but it is engraved as to the correct direction.
Hi Bud. Sorry for my cryptic terminology. I just went and took pictures and grabbed the manual so I can describe whats happening. I pulled the boat apart and found the port and starboard tanks under the seat. On this model, the tank selection is done on the dash panel. Here are a few pictures to show what I have.
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So as far as I can figure, the rear tank is the auxiliary tank and obviously the other two are port and starboard tanks. I checked the tanks and they are all bone dry. Hopefully, I didn't run sediment into my filters and/or tank selector.
After looking at the hoses closely, what I think has happened is that I was filling the tanks too quickly and not allowing the air pressure to release. There is no reason why the tanks should not have filled at the gas station. I think that I need to fill the left and right tanks slower since they are completely dry and see if I'm able to switch between them properly.
How much fuel do you think this boat holds? The Auxiliary tank took 13 gallons when I pumped it at the gas station. These tanks look bigger like 20 gallon tanks maybe?
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Are these the tank selector valves or fuel pumps? They look like fuel pumps. I can't find the fuel switch valve.
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Can anyone tell me if I'm correct with my callouts on this picture?
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OK so per the manual page you posted the dash switches are just to select which tank you want to appear on the gauge. That is just like mine. Now you manual says the tank selector is in the splash well where mine is on the wall of the bench seat base in the center of the boat aligning with the two tanks under the seat. Now all you have to do is find the selector switch. My switch is simply a large round disk with a molded in knob to switch between tanks. Yours is somewhere in the back. I can't tell from your pictures but you are indicating something near the splash well that perhaps you may have previously identified as a gas cap. Check that out to see if it is in deed a switch instead of a cap.
Our boat layouts are indeed similar but not identical
I had an old picture in my system that just may better explain the layout of my boat. Hope I did not confuse the issue
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Man. Your boat looks so much like mine. Yes. I have those same gas caps and one more at the rear of the boat. The one at the very back fills the Aux tank. I think maybe I just tried to fill the tanks too fast and fuel spewed out. I need to check voltage to those fuel tank switch valves and see if they are working. Maybe they have gone bad.
These are my three gas caps. I don't have a manual tank selector on my seats. I think it may be those electric valves
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One other issue I had this weekend was that the starter battery was completely dead. I couldn't raise or lower the motor and it wouldn't even click when I tried to start it. I know the battery was charged a few days ago when I took it off the charger. The battery is only about 7 months old and hasn't been kept dead. I'm not sure what caused the drain with the ignition switch in the off position but for now, I think I'm going to do the following:
1. Replace crappy chargers with onboard ProMariner Charger. If I get the 3 bank charger and connect to all 3 batteries at 12v is that ok? Two of the batteries are in series for the trolling motor. I'm not sure if that will be an issue since the charger will be reading 24v. Maybe a 2 bank would be better and set one bank for 24v.
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2. Add a mini ON/OFF battery switch inline with the starter battery for the time being so nothing can draw it down.
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Ah. Ok. I just found the manual for the 3 bank charger and this is the recommended wiring schematic.
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So apparently, they've already thought of this and have a charging profile in the charger.
I'd like to install one of these so I can just hook up an extension cord. Have any of you ever used these? Do I need to silicone under it and in the screw holes?
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Heck, I just use an extension cord for the past 20+years. works fine for me on a two bank charger, If I have to charge the crank battery after a long period of setting idle, I just use a standard car type trickle charger. and plug it into the same extension cord.
You may want to be sure your bilge pumps are off as well, they can easily be left on and drain a battery in fairly short order. The only other thing on you crank battery circuit will be you sonars
Being an old lazy guy I just don't like to cut any holes in the boat that is why I use the extension cord.
Hey Bud. You're absolutely right. It rained the week prior to me taking the boat out and the cover isn't waterproof. The boat was we inside and I bet the bilge pump automatically pumped the water out. The ignition key was in the off position but maybe there is an automatic position for the bilge pump that kept it running.
After looking at the disaster wiring in this boat, I'm thinking about rewiring some of the boat to avoid any problems. Some of the wiring is wrapped with electrical tape, etc. Speaker wire used on some of it and so on.
I have bumped the bilge pump switches with my foot when getting out of the boat. I would be getting the boat ready to tie down and could hear the pumps running. So. Key or no Key the darn thing will run.
Yeah. It's actually strange because the bilge pump must have a float because after it rained, I raised the front wheel on the trailer and the bilge pump automatically turned on even with the key off and the switch off.
Ok. I have a new question...
I took the boat out on Sunday and I adjusted the power trim all the way down from the throttle (or so I thought) and when I throttled up, I lost thrust because the motor really was not all the way down. The up and down adjustment on the throttle works but stops the adjustment when the motor is level. Something is stopping me from adjusting the motor all the way down from the throttle. I used the switch on the motor and it goes the rest of the way down without an issue. Any ideas?
Sounds a bit like a wiring harness deal. I am curious, now that you have the boat back on dry land, put your throttle control in neutral and move the trim up and down from the throttle control. If it works in this position then put the throttle control in forward and try again. let us know what the results of this kind of test might be. Just thinking the movement of the throttle lever might be causing the wiring harness to stretch causing a loss within one of the contact points or wiring connection to the switch on the throttle control. Since you are able to do this from the motor without issue the best place to start is with the throttle control. Obviously since it works at the motor the tow lock out is not stopping the motor.
Thank Bud. The up and down on the throttle works to the same outcome whether in the neutral position or full throttle position. The strange thing is that it just stops at a level position when I lower it from the throttle handle. If I lower it from the motor, it has no problem.
I read a few things about the Trim Limit Sender. Apparently, there may be a little switch somewhere under the motor that tells the gauge up front the position of the motor trim. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. Maybe the switch on the throttle handle is reliant on the limit sensor back at the motor to cut out so you don't over lower the motor?
Did not know there was the possibility of a sensor in the motor or where ever. Guess it sounds reasonable but I would still try to trace the wiring back from the trim solenoids just to check for a possible break or loose connection. Sounds like your control is like the one in my first Ranger where all the ignition, choke, throttle etc were all in the control. Never experienced the issue you are having but at that time my first boat was only a year old.
Does the motor actually stop trimming or your stopping it by using your trim gauge as a guide ? Mine had a similar issue I would stop trimming down when I saw the gauge reach full down trim but the motor wouldn't be all the way down, I could push the switch in the throttle handle and listen for the trim to bottom out when it truly reached the bottom stop.
Sometimes the gauge would also read 1/4 trim and I would be at the bottom as well. Mine was the trim sensor on the mid section , a potentiometer and it was sticking. There is a picture of it here somewhere , let me see if I can find it for ya. Round switch , 2 bolts and IIRC 2 wires.
Unfortunately, mine stops trimming by itself before it hits bottom. This only happens when I use the trim on the throttle or up at the front of the boat. The trim on the motor works properly.
I found this diagram that shows a "trim limit switch" inline with the throttle trim switch. This seems like a limit switch setting issue to me but this is my first boat so I'm not sure how things work on these suckers.
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Quote from: postmortem01 on March 30, 2016, 11:50:07 AM
Unfortunately, mine stops trimming by itself before it hits bottom. This only happens when I use the trim on the throttle or up at the front of the boat. The trim on the motor works properly.
Ok that's what I was wondering. It does sounds like an issue with the switch in the handle or wiring in that case but not 100% sure , does your Ranger have the wiring diagrams inside the rear battery compartment on the lids ? That may help. I have photos of my old 90 330v wiring schematics if you need them.
I'll have to look at the inside battery compartment lid. Truthfully, I didn't even notice if there was a drawing in there.
Ugh. Ok. I'm so confused. I must have a bad switch or something in the throttle. I don't know. Took the boat out on Sunday (yesterday) and the switch worked fine. The motor tilt worked perfectly. The wiring checks out from the motor to the throttle and to the front of the boat. I'm at a loss. The only think I can think of is the switch on the throttle control.
I bent the crap outta my MotorGuide Tour edition trolling motor shaft. I feel like punching myself for that one. I gotta try to straighten that sucker out. I bent it early in the day and it was unusable all day. I forgot to fold the motor up before taking off and hopefully, that's the last time I ever do that. :'(
Oh! I also installed the new battery charger. It works great! It was well worth the $150. ProMariner ProSport 20 - 3 bank charger. Fantastic. I threw away those other crappy chargers.
Well, it sounds like you are making steady progress and earning Dufus merit badges that all new boat owners earn. Believe me when I say we have all done exactly the same thing. lo
Yeah. That was a total bummer. I hope I can bend this sucker back to straight enough.
Quote from: postmortem01 on April 05, 2016, 10:30:21 AM
Yeah. That was a total bummer. I hope I can bend this sucker back to straight enough.
I would not depend on having much success with bending it back. Good luck in your efforts but I think I know what the outcome will be.
Good news. I was able to bend this back. I used a straight edge to check straightness each time I applied pressure to the shaft. It was bent in two areas. Mostly best at the point where it goes into the top shaft tube. It had a slight bend on the lower. I used two blocks of wood under the shaft and a big C clamp with another block of wood on the top. I crushed it down and repositioned the blocks after each test.
I don't think it's perfect but I can't tell that it's bent at all visually or when I use it.
Good deal, glad you saved a few bucks.
I took the old girl in for new carpet. I tried to pick something that was close to the original but apparently I'm a little color blind because now, it doesn't look like it matches. I'm okay with it at this point (because I don't have a choice). The carpeting guy did a good job and turned it around in 4 days for $900. I just need to get the gel coat repaired and the new cover made.
I was going to build a more permanent deck extension but after using the plywood temporary, I think I will just fiberglass it and carpet it the same color as the rest of the boat.
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That looks great , what kind of carpet did the use ?
You know.... I don't know what kind he used. I know it's marine grade but I don't know what brand.