Submersible tail lights not submersible?

Started by screwballl, February 05, 2011, 07:49:24 PM

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Pferox

I had a boat in FL, that was easy to launch, but a booger to put back on. The guy I bought the boat from had the original trailer break in half at the boat ramp because of salt damage, he bought a new trailer for it, but he nor I ever got it adjusted right.

I made a set of guides out of some galvanized steel and 2 or 3 inch PVC, they worked great, never did put the lights up although I did plan on doing that. This is a kit in the pic, but mine looked pretty much like that.

"If you think you are too small to be effective, you have never been in bed with a mosquito" - African Proverb.  Jim

DBrooke

I did that with my old trailer, if I can find a pic I'll post it up here.
This section under construction.

DBrooke

It's an older picture but you get the point.
This section under construction.

screwballl

#28
Still looking into the different options... I may just decide to grab 2 of these for $10 each:



(click image for link) 6" Submersible Oval LED Stop/Turn Trailer Tail Light, as well as pick up a new set of wires since what I have now is all patched up with various cuts. For the light wiring where it connects, I have some heat shrink tubing I will use to seal it up as tight as possible.

For the guides, I still plan to make some, probably with 3/4" galvanized pipe, seal the bottom, then place the next larger size PVC on top of that. Some years back I worked at a local Ace Hardware that does all the cutting for you to length.
My wife and I had 22 happy years... then we got married.

Pferox

Sounds like a plan to me. If you know how, soldering the wire joints with heat shrink to insulate is the way to go.
"If you think you are too small to be effective, you have never been in bed with a mosquito" - African Proverb.  Jim

screwballl

Yup electronics, wiring and computers all comes pretty easy to me, so I plan to solder the wires and cover with heat shrink tubing. I may even check the lights themselves when I get them and reseal them or reinforce the seal with some silicone to be safe.
My wife and I had 22 happy years... then we got married.

bassmaster893

80% of the time. a trailers wiring isn't working because of a bad ground. same with a car or truck. its always the first thing to look for. if your ground is good and still not getting good connection well, that sucks, finding a bad wire when you have hundreds of feet of wiring is not easy. :shocking:
Kal-Valley Member

screwballl

I think this time I will isolate the ground and not ground it to the trailer at all, use the tow vehicle ground (if the lights let me).
My wife and I had 22 happy years... then we got married.

Pferox

I usually try to use both, this way you are redundantly protected.
"If you think you are too small to be effective, you have never been in bed with a mosquito" - African Proverb.  Jim

screwballl

Quote from: Pferox on February 17, 2011, 05:44:25 AM
I usually try to use both, this way you are redundantly protected.

Yeah I was thinking the same thing after I posted that. I think I will put a ground post further up the trailer that is less likely to get wet and cause a potential short from the light wiring to the ground, like I believe what happened originally.
My wife and I had 22 happy years... then we got married.