I switched back to mono.

[Capt. BassinLou]

I have been fishing with braid or braid to mono leaders for many years. But I grew up fishing with mono and fished mono for a very long time as well.

Very recently I made the switch back to 100% mono. However, this time around I made the switch for specifically one type of application. T-rig (Texas Rig) Why?

I have a very good friend mine, who fishes 100% mono for various applications. But he catches 2 times more bass than I do when he t-rigs, on a consistent basis. So of course that got me thinking. 

I took it a step further and fished the bow with him, side by side for a couple of trips. He threw mono, I threw a braid to mono leader. Our set ups were the following: Weightless presentations, identical hooks, identical worms. Each trip, same result, he caught 2 times more bass. After those trips, my friend picked up on my mild frustration, and suggested I experiment fishing with 100% mono again.

So I listened. I went back to the drawing board. At first I was hesitant with the suggestion because I don't like several of mono's characteristics. The primary characteristic being how "springy" (line stretch) mono has when compared to braid or braid/mono leaders.  Braid has 0 stretch, which I enjoy. Mono, has a lot of stretch. Which I really don't like.

I have had to re-train myself through out this process, and I'm not going to lie, the transition has not been easy. I can happily report however, my t-rig catch rates have improved. But, unfortunately my landing percentages have dropped. Trust me, I know why. I'm not picking up enough slack to account for the mono's stretch, and as a result, my hooksets are weaker.

I have been consciously working on taking a few more seconds with picking up all all the slack and tightening up on the bass before setting the hook. My landing rates are beginning to improve, but my fingers are crossed every time I set the hook, hoping the bass stays pinned. My mono hook setting confidence is not has high as my braid hook setting confidence but its slowly getting better.

I'm a work a progress what I can say, but I wanted to share my recent mono experiences.  Hopefully this info helps someone out.

[Princeton_Man]

Interesting report, Lou. A lot of what you've discovered is why I left mono all together. When I first switched to braid many years ago then tried to switch back to mono, everything had changed for me. I had the same experience with less effective hooksets, but even working jigs and hard baits seemed foreign to me. Then when Fluorocarbon came along, everything else fell back into place for me. Is the buoyancy of mono responsible for your better numbers? If so, why does it matter if your main line is braid? 

[Capt. BassinLou]

Interesting report, Lou. A lot of what you've discovered is why I left mono all together. When I first switched to braid many years ago then tried to switch back to mono, everything had changed for me. I had the same experience with less effective hooksets, but even working jigs and hard baits seemed foreign to me. Then when Fluorocarbon came along, everything else fell back into place for me. Is the buoyancy of mono responsible for your better numbers? If so, why does it matter if your main line is braid?

Excellent questions Jim, thank you. I can't at this moment place my finger on the why's quite yet. I have also taken an additional step and using a second t-rig rod set up, but this time with a much longer braid to mono leader, and using the same mono I have spooled on the other 100% mono setup. I just started this experiment, and do not have any feedback to provide yet.

[Pferox]

I've been going back to mono also.  Basically because I'm using mainly circle hooks now, and with all the "feel" from the braid I have caught myself "setting" the hook when I should let it set itself.
I started out with my "ultralight reels" and went from 20lb braid to 8lb mono.  I use these rods for baitfish and panfish like whiting, croakers, etc.  I've noticed, even when still fishing a little more catch rate.
I think there is a sound thing going on, and braid transmits it better than mono.  There are times with braids that you can hear them "sing" on tight lines, and higher winds.  I'm sure that even quiet braids make more noise through the guides than mono does and that can be a danger sign for fish.

[Capt. BassinLou]

I think there is a sound thing going on, and braid transmits it better than mono.  There are times with braids that you can hear them "sing" on tight lines, and higher winds.  I'm sure that even quiet braids make more noise through the guides than mono does and that can be a danger sign for fish.

Interesting point you just shared here Jim. I have been hearing these type of statements in passing over the last year. 

[coldfront]

lou:  did you consider rod length, action/power?  when I first went to braid, I put some thought into it 'as a system':  where does the 'give' exist?  in mono-years, we wanted faster actions that let us drive more power on the hook sets.  to overcome that mono stretch.  with braid, that was no-where close to the same.

wondering if over years folks gravitated to 'more give' in rods?

I want as fast action as I can get in my rods.  where I make concerted effort is 'how I set' at the hook up.  in baseball, the term 'soft hands' comes to minds.  it's a combination of strength and feel that allow a player to field all kinds of balls ... from sharply hit, spinning ... to slow dribblers.

for me, my spinning rods are much more 'limber' and that braid to flouro is really helpful in getting better, sharper hook sets.  most of my rods now are 7.5 foot or longer (baitcasting) and with very limited exception all MH and fast/Xfast actions.  I want to be able to move as much line as possible on hook sets.

the other key?  know there are some 'slackline setters' out there.  I hear them 'crack the whip' all the time.  I am a feel 'em, reel down and with proper angle/leverage apply/set the hook.

somedays those freakin' fish are pecking at the baits and there's just not enough time to set on those knuckleheads.  MOST days fish are grabbing and holding the bait.


back in the days when I was thinking/participating in tournaments, I would practice and shake fish off.  didn't take long for me to realize just how long those fish would hang on to a bait.

there's time to get into proper position before the hook set.  the hardest part I think I see?  folks can't THINK past the adrenaline.

[Kal-Kevin]

I use straight mono on my spinning reels when t-rigging and change out the line after ever four or five trips if the rod was used more then a few cast each time. I fish a lot of tournaments so changing line is good for more then just stretch it save from break offs. I found line stretch is less when the line is new also when the line has been stretched it stretches more easier.
As for braid with a leader I personally hated the bit when the knot hit the guilds on the way out and most of my line break offs came at the knots where they cam together.

[Capt. BassinLou]

lou:  did you consider rod length, action/power?  when I first went to braid, I put some thought into it 'as a system':  where does the 'give' exist?  in mono-years, we wanted faster actions that let us drive more power on the hook sets.  to overcome that mono stretch.  with braid, that was no-where close to the same.

for me, my spinning rods are much more 'limber' and that braid to flouro is really helpful in getting better, sharper hook sets.  most of my rods now are 7.5 foot or longer (baitcasting) and with very limited exception all MH and fast/Xfast actions.  I want to be able to move as much line as possible on hook sets.

back in the days when I was thinking/participating in tournaments, I would practice and shake fish off.  didn't take long for me to realize just how long those fish would hang on to a bait.

My rods for this application are similar to yours but with 2 differences. Length. 1. My rods are 7'3".  2. I have started fishing with bfs outfits, and I leave my spinning gear at home.  The two factors that are effecting my hooksets are: 1. not picking up enough slack and stick the bass right, and 2. casting distance.  I do not fish up close and personal. My casts are a considerable distance, and sticking a bass at those distances with mono is quite challenging.

I agree, bass hold on to plastics for a considerable amount time. Which can be a good thing but its also a bad thing. A bass well being is on the forefront of my mind, and letting them hold on to that bait too long usually results with a deep/gut hookset. I don't like that. 

[FlatsNBay]

That sure is interesting. I've been interested in the subject of the different line types for Texas rigged worm fishing over the last couple of years and each time that I've interviewed a pro for one of my articles, I've ask them what type of line that they use for Texas rigged worm fishing. I've probably asked 30 pros over the last few years and believe it or not, 100% of the pros (that I asked) do not use braid for casting a Texas rigged worm, even the Florida pros. They do use it for flipping pitching and punching but not for casting a worm. When I asked why, they said that they get more hits with fluorocarbon than with braid. They all mostly use 17-20 lb fluorocarbon, sometimes bigger

That brings up a question, why not fluorocarbon? Using a heavier pound test together with tying a good knot the correct way can give you the best of both worlds, the lower stretch with invisibility.

A couple of things to consider, which I'm sure you did. To increase your hook up and landing ratio off of mono or fluorocarbon try switching to a lighter wire hook for better hook penetration. Also switch to a heavier action rod to make up for the stretch in the line.

On a different note, is trying to figure out why you are getting less hits than JJ's mono set up. Like others mentioned, does your braid create noise? Because of the buoyancy of braid, does it cause your worm to fall at a different rate than mono? Can you adjust the weight of your worm or worm weight to make up for the sink rate if there is in fact a difference? Does the visibility of the braid negatively make a difference (which I bet could be the case)?

Just food for thought and to keep the discussion rolling.

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

[Capt. BassinLou]

That brings up a question, why not fluorocarbon? Using a heavier pound test together with tying a good knot the correct way can give you the best of both worlds, the lower stretch with invisibility.

A couple of things to consider, which I'm sure you did. To increase your hook up and landing ratio off of mono or fluorocarbon try switching to a lighter wire hook for better hook penetration. Also switch to a heavier action rod to make up for the stretch in the line.

On a different note, is trying to figure out why you are getting less hits than JJ's mono set up. Like others mentioned, does your braid create noise? Because of the buoyancy of braid, does it cause your worm to fall at a different rate than mono? Can you adjust the weight of your worm or worm weight to make up for the sink rate if there is in fact a difference? Does the visibility of the braid negatively make a difference (which I bet could be the case)?

Just food for thought and to keep the discussion rolling.

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

FC lines have crossed my mind, however my track record with FC lines have not been the best. I have had more "issues" with FC lines that I care to count. Plus its $$. Mono is much cheaper, and braid lasts for years.

As far as the reasons why the catch rates are different? As I commented on P_M's post I'm still taking notes on the possibilities. Yes, fall rates, visibility, and sound, are plausible reasons. 

[Donald Garner]

Great topic here.  I primary fish with mono all the time except when frog fishing or when fishing really heavy grass vegetation. The trips to Sam Rayburn, Toledo Bend and down to Lake Bastrop I'll have a rod or two set up with braid. 

Most of my flipping and pitching around here on Belton Lake, Stillhouse Lake and Nolan Lake I'll use Berkley Big Game 20lb - 30lb clear mono.  All of my crankbait fishing is done with Clear Mono depending on the structure I'm fishing.  Open water I'll use 12 - 15lb clear mono.  If I'm fishing laydowns or rocky boulder bank lines I'll use 20lb mono.

I've tried FC lines a few times when fishing Texas Rigged Soft Plastics and had success.  I've not done any serious studies etc. to see what my catch / loss ratio was between it and mono.  The thing I didn't like with FC was my line breaking due on the hook sets sometimes. 

The rods I use are the BPS Extreme 7ft Casting Rods and the Dobyns Fury Series 7ft 3in Casting Rods.  For crankbait fishing in open water I use a Med Action Rod.  For Flipping and Pitching I use a Hvy action or MH action rod 20 - 30lb clear mono.  For other baits such as spinnerbaits, swimbaits, top water baits I use a MH action rod 20lb clear mono. 

[Capt. BassinLou]

Great topic here.  I primary fish with mono all the time except when frog fishing or when fishing really heavy grass vegetation. The trips to Sam Rayburn, Toledo Bend and down to Lake Bastrop I'll have a rod or two set up with braid. 

Most of my flipping and pitching around here on Belton Lake, Stillhouse Lake and Nolan Lake I'll use Berkley Big Game 20lb - 30lb clear mono.  All of my crankbait fishing is done with Clear Mono depending on the structure I'm fishing.  Open water I'll use 12 - 15lb clear mono.  If I'm fishing laydowns or rocky boulder bank lines I'll use 20lb mono.

I've tried FC lines a few times when fishing Texas Rigged Soft Plastics and had success.  I've not done any serious studies etc. to see what my catch / loss ratio was between it and mono.  The thing I didn't like with FC was my line breaking due on the hook sets sometimes. 

The rods I use are the BPS Extreme 7ft Casting Rods and the Dobyns Fury Series 7ft 3in Casting Rods.  For crankbait fishing in open water I use a Med Action Rod.  For Flipping and Pitching I use a Hvy action or MH action rod 20 - 30lb clear mono.  For other baits such as spinnerbaits, swimbaits, top water baits I use a MH action rod 20lb clear mono.

Appreciate you sharing Donald. 

[big g]

Interesting you would bring this up Lou.  As a lover of Floro for all my plastics, several months ago I switched back to old school Mono.  Trilene Big Game to be exact, the same stuff I used thirty years ago, and what I always use for topwater.  The reason for the change was cost, and availability.  But the additional bonus with the switch is my need for additional concentration, and better hook sets.  Both are so easy with the Floro, and require more with Mono.  It has been interesting, and requiring more concentration on my part, also you must take up almost all slack before nailing a hard hook set.  Catch rate has not dropped off with the change.  Truly old school for me, fun focussing in on what's going on below,and a lot cheaper, but I need to change out line more often now.  Excellent topic Lou!!!!!!!

[coldfront]

see (cede)  your points Lou.  those long distance hooksets... for me they're just braid applications.  made that switch years ago when I was trying to figure out c-rigging.  had taken line strength up to help with stretch (mono) and all that did was allow me to rip the gills right out of a bass. 


guess it's a bit like EWG vs straight shank (or other hook design...):  what works best you an individual angler may well be a complex interaction of many varied factors.

as for bass health, and I'll assume we're talking single hook applications here, that old 'through the gills removal' process works great.  in my boat I do it with surgical, stainless steel forceps (teeth).  only gets 'easier' with the bigger fish.  but that reverse the hook/point and then grab the bend and just gently remove is amazing.

usually, the key situations I find that 'deep hook' challenge is t-rigs (worms, senkos, flukes).  not seeing it in froggin', jigs or other moving baits ....

[Wizard]

I never switched from mono. Decades of use had all aspects of my angling geared to the properties of mono. I experimented with braid and hybrid lines but came back to mono except in one application. Braid works better than mono or hybrid for deep water grubs. The heavy 3/4-2 oz. heads used for my 10 inch grubs overpower all but the thickest mono. Yet, thick mono has its own set of problems. None of the line types I tried was perfect for deep water grubs. The winning line, braid, had the least problems for this particular application.

Wizard

[Capt. BassinLou]

as for bass health, and I'll assume we're talking single hook applications here, that old 'through the gills removal' process works great.  in my boat I do it with surgical, stainless steel forceps (teeth).  only gets 'easier' with the bigger fish.  but that reverse the hook/point and then grab the bend and just gently remove is amazing.

usually, the key situations I find that 'deep hook' challenge is t-rigs (worms, senkos, flukes).  not seeing it in froggin', jigs or other moving baits ....

Correct. I was referencing single hook t-rig applications. I also agree there are effective hook removal methods and tools out there. But if I can avoid those deep gut hook sets from the get go its a plus.

[Capt. BassinLou]

It has been interesting, and requiring more concentration on my part, also you must take up almost all slack before nailing a hard hook set.  Catch rate has not dropped off with the change.  Truly old school for me, fun focussing in on what's going on below,and a lot cheaper, but I need to change out line more often now.  Excellent topic Lou!!!!!!!

Thanks George. Picking up that slack and crossing their eyes is what I'm currently working on. 

[Bud Kennedy]

So, let me ask a question.  Why not use fluorocarbon line for your t rig application.  Would this serve to improve hookset?

[RangerAndBass]

For me  i use a mono leader for my topwater (spooks, whoppers, etc) because i want the floating aspect of mono. its the same reason i use FC for clear water t-rig or jig fishing if the grass isn't too think, i want my bait to sink.
i understand the cost issue, so i will concede that point.

[Capt. BassinLou]

So, let me ask a question.  Why not use fluorocarbon line for your t rig application.  Would this serve to improve hookset?

I know a lot of anglers enjoy fishing with FC lines. I'm not a fan. I mentioned this on one of my previous posts, that I have had several issues when it comes to FC. I have experimented with several big name brands, the outcome is still the same, and I end up taking it off. FC is pretty pricey for a line that I has to be replaced often.

[coldfront]

So, let me ask a question.  Why not use fluorocarbon line for your t rig application.  Would this serve to improve hookset?

for the most part, I use flouro in higher abrasion environments.  it's better against zebra mussles than braid.  better against rocks than mono...

but in any case, mono works... an angler just has to be more diligent in line care/inspection.  knicks, rough spots... need to be recognized found and addressed to avoid 'separation anxiety'.

[Pferox]

So, let me ask a question.  Why not use fluorocarbon line for your t rig application.  Would this serve to improve hookset?

for the most part, I use flouro in higher abrasion environments.  it's better against zebra mussles than braid.  better against rocks than mono...

but in any case, mono works... an angler just has to be more diligent in line care/inspection.  knicks, rough spots... need to be recognized found and addressed to avoid 'separation anxiety'.

I have different places around that i run into that deserves Floro, but I just kept with the mono and got very diligent on inspecting.  Some Copolymer or blended lines are the dog for me especially around barnacles, they will shred in a heartbeat, even when going overboard with heavier line to combat it.

I talk with some of the shark guys and beach people periodically about different issues.  There is a guy out there that does a lot of mods and modernizations for the larger reels, he is a guru when it comes to working on the Penn round reels I use. He is very much anti-braid without some kind of long mono or stretchy copoly leader or mid line.  He states that the shock that a fish can put on the line with little to no cushion  is devastating to a reel.  Even smaller fish like bass can tear apart a reel over time, many of the new reels aren't very forgiving in the slop department like the older reels which had some give.  Another thing is that everybody is downsizing reels with braids especially and  this just makes the the reel more sucessable to excessive wear.

[ohiobass]

I use copolymer line on everything I throw. Always have. I use Izorline copolymer, either Izorline XXX Super Copolymer or Platinum. Love it! I don't own a spool of braided or fluorocarbon line.

[big g]

After using floro for the past ten years I'm convinced it is the very best for plastics.  I love the stuff but hate the price.  Lots of pros love it and use it for a bunch of applications, but most of them don't pay for it either. 
Switching to mono helps tune in my concentration, on what's going on down below.  Someone brought up a great suggestion.  Use thin wire hooks.  They stick better, and I will bend my hook from eye to barb.  This makes a #4 shorter and wider, and then I bend the barb end up a little to give it a better hook angle.  I find this to beneficial. 
With mono and long casts you need a stiffer rod and take up all line until you feel some weight.  Then set like it's a double diget fish.

[D.W. Verts]

I never left mono... I use a LOT of braid, but that whole FC thing is lost on me. But I'm not very good at this game...

Dale