Fly reel/rod??

Started by imp81318, November 05, 2007, 08:07:01 AM

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imp81318

I have been thinking about getting into fly fishing, and my dad just gave me an old fly reel/rod setup he found... Doe anyone know anything about older fly reels and rods to know if it might be worth cleaning up as a learner setup??  Like I said, I've never used one before and know absolutely NOTHING about them. I can get some pics tonight if it is worth it but I figured I'd check here while I was thinking about it first...

Creel Limit Zero

Sure would be worth trying it out before investing in something good.  The reel is not as important as a decent rod and fly line to learn on.  Pics would be cool, just would like to see how old they are....

imp81318

Ok, I'll take some pics tonight and get some info off the rod/reel. I know the reel looks rusty, but dad said he had pulled some line out and it seemed to work alright...

Bassinkorea

I fly fished for about 15 years when I was back in the UK. If it is an old cane fly rod and in good condition, then it may be worth some money  :-*

These older fly rods are still used by many folks in the UK but I think the newer (modern) rods are much easier to use.....but everybody is different. Give it a go imp  :)

As CLZ said, the reel is not all that important unless you are going after some BIG fish. Generally you will only need to "hand" the line to land normal sized fish, but if a big fish gets on the end of the line then you'll need to use the reel.

PLEASE SHOW US SOME PHOTOS........I'd like to see what you have  ;PHO) ;PHO)
2020 IBASS Gold - Zone 2 - AOY
2020 IBASS Classic - Winner
2020 IBASS Team Tourney - Winner (with FD)

imp81318

Ok, will do tonight Steve. Since there does seem to be some interest, I did notice that the reel doesn't have a crank on it at all  :o  It has a level sticking out of hte top that is basically parallel to the rod and it is spring loaded that when you squeeze that trigger, it must wind the line automatically, so I would assume that you would indeed have to bring the fish in by hand... Like I said I'll get some  ;PHO) tonight...

Creel Limit Zero

Sounds like it is an auto-winding fly reel.... 

Nickk

Those Martin automatics are heavy!

prepare yourself, a new flyline(a good one) costs about $50-60. 
-What brand, weight, and length is the rod?  That should be listed above the grip. 

-Is the reelseat uplocking or downlocking, most modern seat are uplocking and that could help determine the age. 

-What do you want to fish for with it?  Knowing that we can determine if that rod is appropriate for your purposes.  A 5 or 6 weight is pretty versatile and you can use it for trout, bass, and panfish.  Line weight determines what you can throw, larger flies are more wind resistant and since you're casting line and not the fly you need heavier line for larger flies.

here's a link to possibly the best description and explaination of fly casting
http://www.virtualflycasting.com/essentials.htm

imp81318

Ok, it is a Martin Automatic Mohawk FISHINGREEL. On the back of the reel it says 49A. The "trigger" is pulled up, toward the rod, to wind the line. It does definately seem to work - when the "trigger" is pulled, the reel spins and winds the line.

The rod is a Shakeespeare Alpha Graflite 8'0" FY1580-78 (7/8 Fly Line). See below for pics...




tmiller2

i personally never liked automatic reels and like the feel of a cork handle ...... i have a pfluger that i got on sale at Dicks a few years ago....and my cousin gave me a ugly stick light 8'6" 6-8 weight rod...not sure what kind of line i have on it but i am gonna get some new line on it soon.....as well as a new rod

if your just starting id get a regular reel but not a high end one and just practice....field and stream had a pretty cool article that helps inprove your casting....i will try and find it when i get a chance.....

i was never really into fly fishing until this summer when i did it a bunch  with topwater for bass......but now that i have a better feel for it i am going to do it much more often for trout this winter
"the vibrashock?.....its like crack for fish"

Bassinkorea

imp, I agree with tmiller2 on this one. That reel looks old and heavy, so this set-up may not be well balanced. The rod handle looks like my first fly rod I bought when I was younger,

but.....since you are only beginning, I would say give this rod and reel a try just to find out if fly fishing is for you. If you like it then you can upgrade.

A 7/8 weight set-up is a heavy rod used for bigger fish in bigger lakes or even for salt water. I used to use a 7/8 rod for trout in the UK where I was fishing for stocked rainbow trout from 2 ~ 20lb. These days I am using a 3/4 and 4/5 rod for Bass and other Korean fish, which is enough.

Good luck with it imp, I hope you enjoy it  ;)
2020 IBASS Gold - Zone 2 - AOY
2020 IBASS Classic - Winner
2020 IBASS Team Tourney - Winner (with FD)

ss454

Quote from: Bassinkorea on November 06, 2007, 07:42:51 PM
imp, I agree with tmiller2 on this one. That reel looks old and heavy, so this set-up may not be well balanced. The rod handle looks like my first fly rod I bought when I was younger,

but.....since you are only beginning, I would say give this rod and reel a try just to find out if fly fishing is for you. If you like it then you can upgrade.

A 7/8 weight set-up is a heavy rod used for bigger fish in bigger lakes or even for salt water. I used to use a 7/8 rod for trout in the UK where I was fishing for stocked rainbow trout from 2 ~ 20lb. These days I am using a 3/4 and 4/5 rod for Bass and other Korean fish, which is enough.

Good luck with it imp, I hope you enjoy it  ;)

I like the lighter weight rods myself.  I use a 5/6 but I haven't been able to do much fishing with flies in a few years.  I used to fish all the time for everything including bream, crappie, trout and bass.  My friends ended up having to get a fly rod because I was killing them.   ~roflmao 

I still only use a cheap setup because I didn't get need anything special but one day I'm hoping to get a nice Orville somewhere between a 2 and 4wt...
If you build a ramp...I will come...

imp81318

Well, since most of my fly fishing, at least starting out, will be in special regulation trout areas on small mountain streams it sounds like this isn't necessarily the right setup for me to start out with for my application. When you guys talk about a "cheap" setup, what kind of pricing range are you talking??

Quote from: Nickk on November 05, 2007, 11:10:13 AM
prepare yourself, a new flyline(a good one) costs about $50-60. 

WOW $50-60 for line?!?!  :shocking: :o :shocking: :o :surrender: :surrender: :surrender:
How often do you have to replace the line?

Creel Limit Zero

Quote from: imp81318 on November 07, 2007, 06:17:51 AM
WOW $50-60 for line?!?!  :shocking: :o :shocking: :o :surrender: :surrender: :surrender:
How often do you have to replace the line?
A little maintenance on the line and it can last many years.  I bought some new fly line back in '02 and it is still working great.  There are some decent lines out there you can get in the $30 range... 

That 7/8 rod would work wonders fishing the flats for stripers.  You have to chuck those big striper flies a ways from the boat, and you need that heavy of a rod and fly line to do it, although it is a little short.  It is too heavy of a rod for fishing the rivers around here for stockies, but it'll work to get you an idea if you want to get another rod...

As for the auto-reels, I've never used one, so can't say one way or another if it is any good.  For the mountain streams you are talking about, you are probably going to land fish hand lining anyway, I do for almost all my trout. 

imp81318

Ok... $30 or even $50 isn't sooo bad for line if it can last that long - I was just thinking of regular fishing line that you may respool several times a year  :help: :help: But if it lasts for several years it isn't soooo bad...

Now, I've heard that with fly fishing, you are casting the line not the fly. So, if that is the case, if I want to just practice casting in the yard, is it necessary to run out and buy line, fly, leader, etc, or can I just carry the rod without anything at the end of the line and start practicing??

I was thinking along the same "lines" (no pun intended) regarding the hand lining... A guy I work with fly fishes a bit, and his advice was basically that the reel is just a place to store line when you aren't using it...

Any advice for me if I am going to walk outside tonight and start trying to cast??

Creel Limit Zero

Absolutely right, the reel is just storing line.  You only need to use the reel when you have a big fish on and have to engage the drag, even then you could do without it.  I fly fish for carp around here in the lakes for time to time and that's the only time I engage the reel for the most part.  But then, 15-20 pound carp on a 5 weight rod and 4X tippet takes some time to land.   :roll2:

If you are going to start casting, I would suggest putting a leader and a fly on.  Reason being the larger and more wind resistant the fly is, the harder it is.  If you just have fly line on, you will be out there and say, this is easy, I don't need no stinking practice.   lo

10 oclock to 12 oclock, try to keep the backcast and forward cast as parallel to each other as possible, if you catch my drift...

imp81318

Ok, thanks.... When starting my cast, should I have a bunch of line pulled out in a big hoop of sorts between the reel and first eye of the rod, or should I have all the line dangling off the end of the rod in a big pile on the ground/water below the end of the rod?

Creel Limit Zero

Check out the link that Nickk put down, it is very good, thanks Nickk...

http://www.virtualflycasting.com/essentials.htm

Click on the essentials and then each of the 5 links there for the steps.  You can see some good stuff there and give you an idea.  After looking let me know if you have further questions...


Bassinkorea

Just to add to CLZ's excellent post, when you are on the 'back cast' make sure the line has travelled as far back back as it will go (straight out behind you) before you start to throw the line forward. If the line is not straight before you make the forward cast, it will make a whipping sound. I hope this all makes sense  :-\

Fly casting can be rather difficult at first, but once you get the hang of it, it is very satisfying and you'll begin to love it  ;)
2020 IBASS Gold - Zone 2 - AOY
2020 IBASS Classic - Winner
2020 IBASS Team Tourney - Winner (with FD)

Nickk

NEVER CAST A LINE WITHOUT A LEADER ON IT!!!!!!



ok, that's because you can fray the line and as we mentioned, they're expensive!  Also lawncasting is the way to go, concrete will kill the line.  You may want to check in at some fly fishing sites and score a used line to practice with or better yet a closeout new line!

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/Product.aspx?baseno=83306&cdf=TopSeller

you can get the 7 and practice with that.  As far as a leader goes, blood knot 4' of 20lb to 2' of 15' to 1' of 10lb to 3' of 6lb and use that as a leader.  The line will most likely have a loop in the end, tie a perfection loop in the 20lb end of the leader and figure 8 connect it together.  Tie on a bright piece of yarn on the end so you can see it(nothing with hooks for a while!).  Also, a 7/8 weight is generally what is recommended for large and smallmouth bass, if you want to get big flies out there you need the big stick.  That rod is pretty old but it will give you a taste, there are some nice entrylevel rigs these days too by Temple Forks, Saint Croix, and Sage.  An 8' rod is pretty short these days, a modern graphite 7-8 weight is generally 9'.