First off let me say -- I did return the boat to the dealer to have them check why the boat was taking on water. They kept it over a week and said they couldn't find anything. While setting on their property it rained on the boat, hot sun shone on it, the compartments sweated and one auto PFD inflated. I had a mess of mildew and wet gear when I towed the boat home. I'll not give the dealer a second chance. No need to just park it on their lot when I can be fishing.
Here's what I have found out -- I put about 10 gallons of water in the bilge with a garden hose. 24 hours later there were no leaks on the garage floor. I filled the live well and ran the circulating pump for one hour and there were no leaks to the bilge. I used a garden hose and forced water in the live well supply port and into the live well. There was no water leaking into the bilge. I plugged all the through-transom holes (there's 5; bilge drain hole, both livewell overflow holes, live well drain hole, live well supply hole) and took the boat to the lake. For 2 hours I ran the boat, fished some, but never exceeded 5 MPH. Back at the ramp with the boat trailered and on the incline I pulled the drain plug and the bilge was dry. The next day I was back at the lake but this time I got up on plane and drove the boat at 25 MPH several times, plus I fished some. 2 hours later when back on the ramp I pulled the drain plug and out came a gallon of water. So the boat only takes on water at a fast speed. I have checked all the seam welds (which are nicely painted over -- sealed) and they look great. The motor bolts are sealed and tight. I was careful not to have water splash over the transom when starting, running, and stopping the boat. I think I may have to live with this leak. I have asked several other boaters at a boat ramp to look the boat over and offer advice but nothing new was offered. Any one the Forum want to suggest something I overlooked or haven't tried? I'm not going to call Missouri because they will just tell me to take the boat back to the dealer.
My thoughts are leaning towards the conditions while on plane. Water exerts a huge pressure on the hull while underway. While this pressure is being exerted the seams could be separating just a bit as a result of this pressure. Once you throttle back and are not applying undue pressure the seam returns to it's normal condition and does not leak. If you think about it aircraft have experienced the same problem and even sometimes in reverse. Very fast jet powered aircraft actually experience swelling that actually prevent fuel leaks. Just reminds me of the same scenario you are facing but in reverse.
I doubt that you will ever find this problem without removing the deck and inspecting the stringers. Something has become unattached that is allowing the hull to separate ever so slightly while under pressure.
This is just my theory as a possible cause of the elusive problem. Unless you can convince them to replace the boat you will likely have this problem forever. I don't know if there is an external sealing method for this or not but I bet there is something inside that could be done but I sure has heck would not want to go through that kind of aggravation.
I still wonder if your overall set up and trim condition my also be causing this problem. What set up and prop configuration did you finally wind up with?
Was the drain plug screwed in tight every outing?
Did everyone look over every welded seam of the boat? Welds have been known to separate on Trackers.
Do you have a water pressure type speedo pickup? That line could be be leaking. If you have a pressurized line to the water pressure gauge, that's a possibility too.
Thanks guys for your thoughtful replies to my perplexing problem. I'll try to answer your questions/suggestions
-- I will check out the speedo tube and the motor's water pressure tube. I have a water pressure gauge on the dash but not sure how it works. The speedo works off the pitot hole on the lower unit and is fairly accurate compared to the GPS in the fish finder. I would think if there was a leak in the speedo tube it would not be accurate. Actually the speedo indicates 2 MPH faster than the GPS. I may cover the pitot hole just to do a test.
-- The drain plug was screwed in very tight, every time. I never had a leaking problem on my 2005 Tracker so i think I have the correct touch for tightening a drain plug. I have been under the boat and checked every welded seam, plus as mentioned the seams are powder coated over, so they seem to be well sealed. Actually the entire hull is powder coated. I do see a thin scrape about a foot long on the keel. It is not a deep scratch but it scraped off the paint. Looks like it was run up on a concrete boat ramp. I'll cover it over with JB Weld.
-- It does seem the water pressure on the hull is where the leak is coming in at. I like the analogy to an aircraft. I will live with the problem before removing the deck, as you suggested. I don't fully understand what you mean by overall setup, trim, and prop configuration. The boat is 17.5", 60 HP 4-stroke, 5 mounting holes and mounted in the top hole. The decal on the lower unit shows 12X22 1.83:1. There is a tilt gauge on the dash and when I start out the boat comes up on plane quickly and as it gains speed I began to tilt the motor up by watching the gauge and looking aft at the motor spray. If i don't keep tilting the motor up I will get spray over the top of the transom. I have the starting out procedure of speed and tilt well perfected.
-- I have another idea for a test. When I tilt the middle seat forward on it's hinge there is a carpeted compartment below. At the bottom of the compartment is a one foot carpeted square aluminum plate with a screw in each corner. I removed that plate and it lets me see the bilge. That is the first sign I am leaking as the bilge starts getting damp and later there is about one inch of water. As a test I'll place a water filled balloon perpendicular to the keel in the bilge and watch to see which side of the balloon the water starts to build up. That will tell me if the leak is forward of the seats or behind the seats. I guess every little clue helps to pinpoint the leak.
Going to ask is this your first boat? If so I had thought my boat was taking on water. But come to find out it was when I came to a stop water would rush up the back by the engine and flow in. You will need to get used to just before a stop hit the throttle a little when coming off plane. I'm now getting a lot better and don't have that happen often anymore. Hope this is your issue and you can get back to enjoying fishing.
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Thanks for your reply. This is my third boat. The last Tracker was the exact same rig. I always come to a gradual stop, or slow down, from fast speed. I make sure water doesn't come over the transom.
Well, this is a real bugger of a problem. I wonder if you drop the motor a bit what effect it would have on water over the transom. Your statement about that got me to thinking this way. Many other here with trackers usually report the motor being on the bottom hole. I can't remember anyone reporting the motor in the top hole.
The set up I was referring to earlier is the measurement between the centerline of the prop and the pad surface of the boat. There is a method to measure this and can be found online if you search prop to pad measurement. Kinda sound like you may be just a bit high but would be interested to have this checked. You also say you get on plane quickly. This would indicate that the motor is not too high. I am a bit conflicted with my thinking about this. I certainly would check this out before even thinking about removing the decks. That would be an awful thing to do to a new boat. I know I would not want to do this and would be a very last resort type of action.
Quite the head scratcher Thorn. If/when you find the cause, please report it to us. In the mean time, good luck finding the leak.
Thanks for the heads up on "set up".
Just to clarify -- the motor mount bolts are in the top hole of the motor mount thus the motor is as low as it will go. It can only be raised. With the boat level, the motor level, I held a yardstick against the keel and the motor. The A-V plate was about 1 inch lower than the keel. I understand this is a good indication the motor is at the right height for my hull design. The hull is aluminum with a slight V.
After I rig up my bilge dam and get back on the water I'll post back the results of that test. Looks like it will be about 5 days due to some nasty weather heading my way.
Thanks again to all who took an interest to my problem.
Here is a depiction of the prop to pad measurement FYI
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/iUz1m7.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poiUz1m7j)
The other thing is top or bottom hole. From what you are describing your motor is on the setting that has your motor at its lowest point. This is consistent with other reports of a common Tracker Set up. Once you get an accurate prop to pad let us know what it is.
Be sure to level your boat on a hard surface, the motor must be trimmed to an angle 90 degrees from the level boat making it perpendicular. Measure from the hard surface to the pad and then measure from the hard surface to the centerline of the prop shaft. The difference between these two measurements will be your prop to pad measurement. In most cases the prop centerline should be a few inches below your pad. I don't know what is correct for your motor but conventional wisdom indicates that a measurement of 3- 1/2" is optimal but we should check on that to be sure.
Once all of this is known if is worth a continuing conversation about what performance you are seeing at WOT. I also am curious what speed you are getting at what RPM and at what trim position. A motor too low may plane quicker but not do well for speed and create more of a plowing deal instead of a clean plane. Boat may also a bit more unstable at full throttle. I am also curious if you are feeling any torque or pulling in your steering wheel.
I have had the same mystery water problem in my 2008 175TXW. What is the most maddening thing about the situation is that mine is intermittent. I bought various sized plugs and closed every opening. What I found is that when my livewell intake & drains are blocked off I never take on any water. When inspecting the plumbing I found that several of the hose clamps worked loose. I also found a tee that had been overtightened and caused the fitting to be out of round and had to be replaced. Tracker in it's infinite wisdom does have a fitting that runs below the fuel cell and is inaccessible unless I remove the fuel cell. Fabulous. Any case I'm no longer taking on as much water but it is frustrating. Just something else to make part of the preventative maintenance list.
Now that is some interesting stuff. HMMMMMM. Might just be the problem.
Quote from: Thornback on December 26, 2018, 06:32:32 AM
Thanks for your reply. This is my third boat. The last Tracker was the exact same rig. I always come to a gradual stop, or slow down, from fast speed. I make sure water doesn't come over the transom.
The boat may have different rigging which determines how it sits in the water which is why this boat takes on water when you stop and your other boat didn't. An idea that I from Prinetonman, as you're slowing down turn the boat also, it could be the difference.
Rodney
Quote from: Bassinlou on December 25, 2018, 04:35:49 PM
Was the drain plug screwed in tight every outing?
Did everyone look over every welded seam of the boat? Welds have been known to separate on Trackers.
tough to do on the trailer. a dealer'd really have to WANT to find what's going on here. WELL, at least as much as they want to sell a new boat.
might have to take then out and have them go through exactly what you did, just WITH you.
how long have you had this boat? is there a 100% satisfaction guarantee? I'd assume there's a 'lifetime hull warranty'.
You guys are the greatest at thinking about my problem and offering help. By following the graphic supplied by Bud . . . with the boat pad level to my garage floor and the motor cavitation plate level, the measurements are as follows: boat pad to garage floor = 18"; prop center line to garage floor = 12"; resulting in a prop to pad ratio of 6".
--I have not yet run the boat at WOT. Taking it easy on the new motor. My fastest speed so far per my GPS was 32 MPH and I think the RPM was at 5,000. The boat does come up on plane quickly and if i don't start tilting the motor up it will start plowing and spraying water over the transom. But I repeat -- I have mastered the technique of coming up on plane and tilting the motor up as I gain speed. I have learned to do this by the attitude and speed of the boat and watching my tilt gauge on the dash. It's like starting off in an automobile with a 3-speed tranny and you shift through the gears as you pick up speed. Actually makes for fun driving the boat.
--My next outing I will go WOT and take note of ground speed and motor RPM while experimenting with the motor tilt and watching my wake.
--The boat has a No Feedback Steering System which has a clutch mechanism that prevents engine torque in the steering wheel. Don't ask me how it works but it's supposed to eliminate the driver having to constantly rock the steering wheel back and forth. All I can tell you is it does work and I like it.
--I don't want to sound ungrateful but it seems the conversation has shifted from leaks to motor height. I assure each and all I'm not getting any water over the transom when starting out or stopping. And I'm satisfied with how quickly it comes up on plane and the speed. I rarely drive any of my boats over 20 MPH.
--As mentioned by Rush I still have this feeling the leak is somewhere in the plumbing. And most of the plumbing is unassailable. Great design!!! Thanks Tracker.
---I have owned the boat 2 months. I have thought about taking the dealer for a run. Probably only Walmart and Amazon offers a 100% satisfaction guarantee (I'm being sarcastic). As to a hull warranty there is a lifetime hull and decking warranty. But the hull may be sound and the plumbing leaking. First the source of the leak must be found. The dealer couldn't find a leak so now I'm doing my own testing by elimination.
---I'll post again after my next outing. Thanks guys.
any way to test the plumbing using air/airpressure? you know, like they do with houses?
I tend to agree that a plumbing problem may be the culprit. Your motor is a bit deep and it would not hurt to raise it up a bit (about 1 hole at a time) when you begin to want to get the most out of your boat and motor performance. I was considering that the attitude of the hull as it comes on plane as a possible source of hull stress. I don't believe that is the problem but you never know is guess.
Quote from: Bud Kennedy on December 27, 2018, 10:22:58 AM
I tend to agree that a plumbing problem may be the culprit. Your motor is a bit deep and it would not hurt to raise it up a bit (about 1 hole at a time) when you begin to want to get the most out of your boat and motor performance. I was considering that the attitude of the hull as it comes on plane as a possible source of hull stress. I don't believe that is the problem but you never know is guess.
I agree the motor is a bit deep and I considered raising it a hole or 2 because of the plowing but then I solved the problem with the tilt. I'll run it as is. Heck I may have to run it with the leak as is -- but I'll keep testing :)
Quote from: coldfront on December 27, 2018, 10:03:21 AM
any way to test the plumbing using air/airpressure? you know, like they do with houses?
Good idea, a good test would be a hydrostatic test. But, and a big but, it would require ripping up the decking and engineering fittings to connect to the plumbing.
I had a problem with water getting through my splash well plumbing into the bilge.
Sealed the drain in the well plumbing and no water the last 15 years
Terry G may have hit the nail on the head. After Terry's reply I went out and did a close inspection of my transom well. Right in the middle compartment is a plastic access plate about 10" in diameter (similar to a manhole cover in a street). The plate turns CC to unlock and CW to lock down. I thought it possible the water spraying into the transom well might be leaking past the plate and into the bilges. So this morning I made a wooden plug for the transom well drain hole, plugged up the hole, placed a paper napkin under the deck below the plate. I then started adding water with a garden hose. No leaks showed when the water was high enough to reach the plate seal. I kept adding water but still no leak. Then I decided to raise the water up to the level of the gas filler pipe support base. I then used a flashlight to look under the deck below that support base and saw water trickling down to the bilge. That has to be THE leak as all the clues match that leak. No water in the bilge when idling on the lake for several hours but water in the bilge in 30 minutes after running at 3/4 speed and water in the well each time I return home from a fishing trip. The drain hole for the well is about 3/4" up from the bottom so not all the water drains out. Looks like I'm getting more water in the transom well than I thought. I'll have to start looking aft more often to be sure I have the best motor trim. Could also be motor spray hitting the support base.
--I plan to drill out the 3 pop rivets holding the base, remove it, cover the underside with a marine sealant, then replace and re-rivet.
--Again thanks to all who volunteered your time, experience, and suggestions to help me in my frustration. I was disappointed that my 2019 Tracker was leaking. I was looking for a leak to rise up from the lake, not a leak to drain down from the deck.
--Maybe this post will help another boater to check his transom well when he has a leak.
Can you post a picture of where you think the leak is. I'm not able to visualize where you're talking about. Maybe my boat has the same issue as I swear I'm not allowing much water up the back when stopping. But I do have an older nitro boat and wondering if that's same issue with mine.
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Here's a photo of the transom well with pointer indicating where water was leaking into the bilge.
(https://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/z448/Reppans/Transom%20Well_zpsbbwzhpes.jpg)
While I'll be a monkeys uncle. Now we understand your issue. Congratulations on figuring it out after getting Terry G's post.
Thanks for the picture now it makes sense. Hope you can now get out and fish without worries.
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I'm now in the process of altering the gas filler base that's located in the transom well so as to make it waterproof. Once finished with the waterproofing I'll post some before and after photos. Meanwhile here's a photo of my boat.
(https://www.ultimatebass.com/bass-fishing-forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ussthornback.com%2Fsitebuilder%2Fimages%2F2019_Tracker-600x450.jpg&hash=337dabbd8e3e6e8180b506f25a7ad5829837287b)
I'm now in the process of organizing my notes and photos regarding my quest to find my leak. As soon as I have everything ready I'll post a link for members to read and view.
Quote from: Thornback on December 30, 2018, 09:36:09 AM
I'm now in the process of altering the gas filler base that's located in the transom well so as to make it waterproof. Once finished with the waterproofing I'll post some before and after photos. Meanwhile here's a photo of my boat.
(https://www.ultimatebass.com/bass-fishing-forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ussthornback.com%2Fsitebuilder%2Fimages%2F2019_Tracker-600x450.jpg&hash=337dabbd8e3e6e8180b506f25a7ad5829837287b)
Nice looking boat Thorn. Enjoy!!
Folks, I had the boat out on a lake today, warmed up the outboard, then run about 2 miles at 35 MPH. I saw a small amount of water in the bilge. I repeat, I saw water in the bilge. Later after fishing for a time I ran another 2 miles at 35 MPH. I then stopped the boat, turned on the bilge pump, looked over the transom, and saw about a gallon of water pumped out. I guess it's back to the drawing board on this one.
Sounds like you are gonna have to go after the plumbing. ~xyz ~xyz ~xyz
I'm going to a lake in 3 days with a friend. I'll plug all the transom holes with expandable plugs, plug the pitot hole, and while my friend runs the boat I'll use a flashlight to observe the bilge and plumbing. I also have a water pressure gauge but don't know how to plug it up. I have petitioned off the bilge so i can see if water starts building in the forward or aft part of the boat and also see if it starts on the starboard or port side. Now I know why the boat comes with a bilge pump :help:
This morning I plugged all the transom holes with expansion plugs and also put the plug in the live well. I also taped over the pitot hole on the LU. With the boat on the ramp I removed the drain plug to be sure the bilge was dry. I replaced the plug and launched the boat. After a run of about 2 miles at 25 MPH I could see water in the bilge. During another run with a friend driving I used a flashlight to observe the inside of the transom and the bilge but didn't see any water leaks. when we stopped I turned on the bilge pump and pumped out about a half gallon of water. Water seems to be building up in the aft part of the boat. Several hours later back at the ramp with the boat on the trailer I pulled the drain plug and about a gallon of water poured out. I believe there are now only 3 places for the water to enter the boat: 1--the lower motor mount bolt holes; 2--the hull; the tube for the water pressure gauge. I'm not sure which tube is for the gauge so I can crimp it. The hull looks solid but I'm going to jack up one side at a time and check the hull where it rests on the bunk boards. If the hull checks out OK I think I'll ask the dealer to remount/reseal the motor.
Yesterday I checked the hull where the boat rests on the bunk boards. Hull was clean and slick as a whistle. This morning I launched at a lake and made 6 half-mile runs at 30 MPH each and being careful to gradually slow down each time to prevent water coming over the transom. During each run I was observing paper towels placed in the bilge on each quadrant of the temporary "dam" I had put in place in the bilge. The "dam" is more to the aft part of the boat at the same location as the seats. During the 6th run I noticed the two pieces of paper towel behind the "dam" were getting damp. This confirms, after many, many tests, that the boat leaks: 1--at only fast speed; 2--the leak is in the stern. I now suspect the motor mount bolt holes in the transom. I spoke with the dealer and they have agreed to remove the motor and inspect the transom. I may also ask them to raise the motor one hole. They agreed to do the job by appointment so I could be there to observe. I will call them next week to set up the appointment. Here's a photo showing the 4 pieces of a paper towel in the bilge with the two rear pieces beginning to show dampness . . .
(https://www.ultimatebass.com/bass-fishing-forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ussthornback.com%2Fsitebuilder%2Fimages%2FDetailed_Photo-600x450.jpg&hash=ee87e2c44f49944a0b26ed8f06a3bd54fe1d409d)
I am hoping you don't discover that the problem might be a cracked weld. It is a known problem on some hulls. This problem is also now invading some of the Ranger Aluminum boats. For some reason, I can't get off the initial thought pertaining to hull stress factors. This would also point to potential weld issues.
Well when you don't know exactly where the leak is originating from then you do have to consider a weld. I have looked over the welds and the paint covering them and they look beautiful. Maybe when the motor is removed the place of the leak will be obvious. If not and the motor is remounted/sealed and the leak still appears that leaves only the welds.
First thing I would check at this point is every Clamp on Every Fitting in the Bilge Area. If even one is leaking it will allow water to seep in and with the Vortex Effect at higher speed the suction could produce more water than a slower speed would.
I had the same issue in my Ranger, couldn't figure out why sometimes I had water and other nothing. Went over all the clamps and found several that had worked loose. Tightened them all and BOOM, leak stopped.
Try it and see it if don't work for you.
Thanks for your suggestion and it's a logical one. That was the first place i thought of. I have run the boat with all the transom holes plugged with expansion plugs and have resealed the holes with a marine sealant. Even taped over the pitot hole. So there is no water getting into the pumps and hoses in the bilge. Besides I can't get to the hoses and clamps. I have observed them with a flashlight while running and can't see any leaks. But to get to them would require the deck be removed.
I can't imagine your frustration with this issue. I think you're handling it much better than I would. I would be the squeaky wheel on this one and everyone at tracker and the dealer would know about this. Good luck. I hope you get the issue resolved.
Thanks for the reply NW Ron. Well there is some frustration but at least I can keep fishing, something I do on a weekly basis. The dealer has been receptive to my problem and agreed to work with me on it. I know it's not the dealer's fault and they can't wave a magic wand. So between the two of us we'll keep searching. One thing I have learned in my 79 years is not to get stressed. I've learned all things will work out. My last option would be to trade the boat for a new 2020 model next year and I'm blessed that it won't be a financial strain on me.
I seem to recall reading a thread on another forum some time ago with this same issue and on a Tracker. After much hair pulling, the owner found out that the Dealer used a sealant different from what Tracker recommended when mounting the motor. I guess the boat was ordered without a motor and the Dealer mounted one of his on it.
Anyway, once that was discovered (I think eventually Tracker got involved) The Dealer pulled the Motor and re-set it with the correct sealant. BINGO No more Leaks.
Not saying that is what happened in your case, but it has happened in the past.
TB, I hope they get it resolved and it's just resealing the mounting bolts.
Rodney
Quote from: Thornback on January 12, 2019, 06:22:50 PM
My last option would be to trade the boat for a new 2020 model next year and I'm blessed that it won't be a financial strain on me.
I believe you have just resolved the problem
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I'm keeping that resolve on hold because I'm curious where the boat is leaking. I would love to solve the leaking problem. I enjoy troubleshooting problems and besides I really like this boat.
My owners' manual says motor mounting bolts should be torqued to 50 foot pounds. Being curious I used my torque wrench to check. Two nuts checked out at 50 but the other two were around 40, so I tightened them down to 50. I have a fishing trip planned for Thursday so I'll check to see if tightening the nuts makes any difference.
I thought about raising the motor one hole when the dealer removes the motor to check for a leak but I see it could be a problem to raise the motor one bolt hole due to a "lip" on the top back of the transom. It looks like that would prevent the motor from making solid contact with the transom. I'll see what the techs at the dealer have to say about raising the motor. See graphic below . . .
(https://www.ultimatebass.com/bass-fishing-forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ussthornback.com%2Fsitebuilder%2Fimages%2FMotor_Position-600x485.jpg&hash=7c2c64c28f297d2056850c61576969046bc23587)
I've been following this thread since day one without posting. I'm posting in it now so I can keep a closer eye on it. Interested in where this all ends up going. Good luck!
I just hope I live long enough to see it to a conclusion/solution :)
Quote from: Thornback on January 14, 2019, 07:01:47 PM
I just hope I live long enough to see it to a conclusion/solution :)
I think I'd get a new one under warranty first. lo lo ;) ::)
Rodney
I spoke with the service manager at the dealership today and suggested they remove the motor and check out the transom. I said I didn't want to leave the boat until they could get to it because I wanted to be there to see for myself. He said they were backed up and his first opening was in 2 weeks. I said that was fine because I could still be fishing. I'll report back here after the motor is pulled, transom holes inspected, the motor resealed and reinstalled.
This morning the shop foreman and helper removed the motor and the three of us inspected both motor and transom. Everything looked fine and there was a complete ring of sealant around all 4 holes. They removed the old sealant, resealed, and remounted the motor. I'll give the sealant 24 hours to cure and probably test the boat Friday afternoon. If it still leaks I'll just name it "Leaky" :)
Quote from: Thornback on January 30, 2019, 02:28:57 PM
This morning the shop foreman and helper removed the motor and the three of us inspected both motor and transom. Everything looked fine and there was a complete ring of sealant around all 4 holes. They removed the old sealant, resealed, and remounted the motor. I'll give the sealant 24 hours to cure and probably test the boat Friday afternoon. If it still leaks I'll just name it "Leaky" :)
Thank you for the update Thorn, let us know if the issue was resolved after your next outing.
Took the boat to the lake this morning for testing. After several power runs back and forth across the lake I was thinking there was no leak. Later I did see some water in the bilge. During the day and after several other runs (I was fishing and moving around) the water increased but not up to the level the bilge pump could pick it up. It seemed to me it wasn't leaking as much as before. Then upon returning to the ramp and pulling the plug about a half gallon of water poured out. Again this is a lot less than before. I think I will tighten the motor mount bolts a little tighter and test it again next week when i get a free day. Stay tuned.
If you tighten the bolts after the sealant has set, you may create a leak by breaking the seal. Besides, IIRC the bolts are supposed to only be torqued to 50-55 lb/ft.
I have to ask a question only because no one has asked you and its something in plain sight.
Are you using the built in cooler for drinks and stuff ? That melting ice drains in the bottom of the boat. Its either pumped out by the bilge or when you remove the plug.... I have the same boat and I have to place a tub under the drain hole until the ice finishes melting.
Thanks for the replies/thoughts guys.
--The boat is already leaking therefore I believe I can gamble by more tightening of the motor mount bolts. If tightening produces a worst leak then I'll just pull the motor and reseal. In the quest to locate the source of the leak I'm grasping for straws.
--I have never put ice in the built-in ice chest.
The keel seam from bow down the center keel. Where it ends under the boat. Could be pulling open while on plane. Just a thought.
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When I put the "dam" across the bilge the first sign of water came from the stern of the boat.
Quote from: Thornback on February 09, 2019, 08:33:32 AM
When I put the "dam" across the bilge the first sign of water came from the stern of the boat.
Yes I remember reading that now. This is a head scratcher. The holes on the speedo. You say you taped the hole on the lower uint. Right. The only thing left I can think of is Rub Rail. At WOT the water should not be hitting it. But I have seen where a weld is cracked under the rub rail( on the hull) and the spay was getting in. But no water intrusion sitting at rest, or idling around.
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Thanks gator -- I'll take a close look at the rub rail -- both in the garage and when underway next time I go fishing.
I fully realize that this is a pain trying to figure out what is happening. Let alone all of us offering our guesses as to the problem. With this being said.........I have one more thing to check that I don't see mentioned but you may have already checked. This is just a guess while trying to come up with what the cause of the problem might be.
As a long shot.......Have you checked the viability of your drain plug. I understand that it is new but just wondering if this might have a bit of a sealing problem that is letting some water to be forced into the bilge area when under power? I have heard of this with snap style plugs with some reporting the problem stopped after putting in a new screw style plug.
Bud -- I welcome all suggestions or questions. I think i can answer most questions as to my findings and tests. The origin of the leak is frustrating but I am fighting off the stress and glad I can use the boat anytime I want to go fishing. You mentioned the drain plug -- I used marine sealant around the port and use a screw type expansion plug. I have tightened it hand tight and the boat leaked. I have tightened it tighter with pliers and the boat leaked. I have felt inside the port and it is smooth all around. But before my next outing I'll change to one of my extra screw type expansion plugs. Who knows, maybe a different plug will make a difference.
Glad you understand that we are all just trying to help. I really hate that you are having this problem with no real isolation of what ever the problem is. It is truly unfortunate that Tracker can't be more helpful or positive with trying to resolve or at least isolate the problem. At least for now you can live with it but I do wonder how it will do over a normal ownership cycle of multiple years. Just a darn shame. I have an acquaintance that has a similar problem with a Ranger RT Series hull that never was resolved so he traded it in and got a phoenix. Maybe some problems are the type that never are resolvable. Anyway, who knows maybe the new drain plug will help but I don't have high hopes only best wishes.
Another potential cause; I haven't had this problem with my Tracker but I read a post a few years ago on another forum that a known cause of water intrusion was an incomplete seal between the gunnel cap/rail where it is attached to the hull, especially near/at the transom where water is pushed up underneath the top rail while under power. It was recommended to run a thick bead of marine silicone up underneath the top rail exterior where it meets the hull. The silicone fills a gap between the underside of the top rail and the hull and cannot be seen unless looking up under there. May be worth a try?
This is what I was getting at.
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When examining the gunnel cap/rail seam at the hull it appears higher or maybe the same level as the "notch" in the transom where the motor is mounted. I would think if water was coming in the gunnel cap seam it would also be coming over the notch in the transom. I may run a bead of marine sealant as suggested. I'm willing to try almost anything.
Quote from: Thornback on February 11, 2019, 03:10:10 PM
When examining the gunnel cap/rail seam at the hull it appears higher or maybe the same level as the "notch" in the transom where the motor is mounted. I would think if water was coming in the gunnel cap seam it would also be coming over the notch in the transom. I may run a bead of marine sealant as suggested. I'm willing to try almost anything.
:-* Here's a suggestion that might help track down where the water is entering or at least where it isn't. Pick up a couple tubes of water indicating paste. They use it to indicate water in fuel tanks by putting line of it on a tank measuring stick and lowering it to the bottom of the tank. The paste changes color when it contacts water.
I'd use something like duct tape below the places you believe water may be entering and put the paste on the tape. You can use all kinds of things to put test pieces up in the hull. If you have a floor drain, put the paste on the end of a ruler and slide it down in the drain. Pull your front seat post and do the same thing with a dowel rod. Make a short run and check your tape and sticks.
https://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/products.php?mi=33791&itemnum=76561&redir=Y (https://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/products.php?mi=33791&itemnum=76561&redir=Y)
https://www.amazon.com/Gasoila-Regular-Water-Finding-Paste/dp/B00207LS5M/ref=asc_df_B00207LS5M/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167156418710&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13526980750031844161&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010604&hvtargid=pla-332190402714&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Gasoila-Regular-Water-Finding-Paste/dp/B00207LS5M/ref=asc_df_B00207LS5M/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167156418710&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13526980750031844161&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010604&hvtargid=pla-332190402714&psc=1)
I have stopped getting the occasional leak in my boat.
I took off the o-ring that was on the screw-in plug and put a new one on.
Now when I screw the plug in I feel a definite seating of the plug. And no more water.
Water indicating paste sounds like an idea I might want to try. As for the drain plug I have tried 3 different plugs but the boat still leaks. Last Friday, due to a slight bump against the dock when loading my boat back on the trailer, about 6 inches of the rubber strip popped out of the grove at the rear of the rub rail. The plastic cap covering the spot where the rub rail and transom meet had been missing for some time unbeknownst to me -- Appears it was knocked off and I'm not sure how or when that happened. Maybe water was coming in where the cap was missing. The dock bump and repair is a long story so I'll just say all is repaired now and I'll check for a leak next time I put the boat in the water.
Had the boat out yesterday for a 4 hour fishing trip. Moved around the lake about 6 times, powering up and running at fast speed each time. Noticed a slight amount of water in the bilge but it was too low for the pump to pick up. Back on the ramp I pulled the plug and it seemed the amount of water that poured out was much less than before. I still want to seal a few more seams before my next trip. I'm hoping I'm on to something.
Quote from: Thornback on February 23, 2019, 06:37:04 AM
Had the boat out yesterday for a 4 hour fishing trip. Moved around the lake about 6 times, powering up and running at fast speed each time. Noticed a slight amount of water in the bilge but it was too low for the pump to pick up. Back on the ramp I pulled the plug and it seemed the amount of water that poured out was much less than before. I still want to seal a few more seams before my next trip. I'm hoping I'm on to something.
I'm glad to see you are making headway with your situation... I've been paying close attention to my new 175 as I was seeing water too at first, but I was also using the built in cooler too.
I went out for about 4 hrs the other day when there was a break in the rain. After loading up at the ramp, I pulled the plug and not a single drop... so that was a relief since I was seeing water the last 3 times I went out and I couldn't tell you how much was from the ice and how much was from who knows where.
Good for you. "Not a single drop" is my goal.
Was out fishing this morning and moved the boat about 6 times over 3 hours. I saw some water in the bilge and when back on the trailer and on the ramp incline I pulled the drain plug. I'm guessing about a half gallon of water poured out. It does seem whatever I have done has reduced the amount of water the boat is taking on. I just don't know what else to do. I guess I'll just live with the leak.
Do you have access to a couple of Go Pro cameras? If so maybe you can place them in different spots to film it while you're moving around.
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For what you paid for that boat you shouldn't have to put up with it, have them replace the hull.
Rodney
Thanks guys.
--I do have a GoPro camera and I might try to mount it under the deck. Problem is getting access under the deck and how dark it is. I might be able to find a spot to jury-rig the mount and I could light up the bilge with a couple of lanterns. There is a lot of hardware under the deck and it's hard to see all areas of the hull and plumbing. But an interesting idea and worth thinking about.
--Getting a replacement hull may require legal action. The problem is not worth the trouble to me. I think should the factory be contacted they would tell me to have the dealer solve the problem. That would make sense because the source of the leak has not been determined. The dealer may be willing to "work" on the problem but that renders me without a boat. To me the problem is not serious enough to leave my boat with the dealer for months or even weeks while they "work on" the problem in their spare time. I have spoken at length with the maintenance manager who took my boat out and ran it but could not find the leak. A gallon of water in the bilge after being on the water for 4 hours does not consume my life. I know many are saying it's the principle and I should not tolerate a leak. But I also weigh my options. Besides I'll be turning 80 on my next birthday and I'm not sure how many more years I will be fishing or owning a boat :)
It is really good at your age to still be doing the boat thing. I hope to still be boating at 80 but that is a few years away. I love it when folks keep on keeping on. Good for you.
Thanks. At my age I have lost several fishing buddies for obvious reasons so I do appreciate I can still go fishing. I can even launch and reload my boat by myself. And I have one fishing buddy who is 2 years older than me.
Yesterday while poking around my boat and thinking about "the leak" I managed to squeeze my arm down under the rear deck and again check the hose connections I could reach. I noticed the plastic elbow connection on my live well fill pump had threads showing. I tested the "coupling nut" and found it loose. I unscrewed it and checked that the hose clamp on the other end of the elbow was tight. Then I reconnected the elbow to the pump and was able to screw it up tight to the pump with no threads showing. I then made a half turn with pliers to tighten. That may have been my leak!!! This sounds like a simple exercise but due to the confinement under the deck it took me about 30 minutes to accomplishment this. I'm now excited about taking the boat out again to see if it still takes on water. Stay tuned.
Good Find ! ! ! We got our fingers crossed that this is the problem. Looking forward to your report.
Quote from: Bud Kennedy on March 02, 2019, 08:32:59 AM
Good Find ! ! ! We got our fingers crossed that this is the problem. Looking forward to your report.
X2 I sure hope that was it. (https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3204/SVVXNK.gif)
Boat still leaks. After about 4 hours on the river I drained about a quart and a half of water when I pulled the drain plug. Rats!!!
It sounds like you're gaining on it. It also sounds like it was put together on a Monday morning or Friday afternoon.
Rodney
It does seem like I'm draining a lot less water. Yeah, it's probably a Monday morning hangover boat :)
Not to change the subject but if any of you 175 Owners are on Facebook and haven't already please join "Pro Team 175 Owners Group". We have over 1500 175 Owners in the group already
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Are any of the owners complaining of a leak?
Don't recall seeing that question or mentioned but I would certainly post it and see
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I don't do Facebook any longer. Twice I had to deactivate my account when friends said they got messages from me with my name and photo explaining some money scheme to them. Facebook is a very easy account to hack. Even a caveman could do it. I'm off of Facebook for good!!!
Went fishing yesterday morning and the boat leaked. Not much but I did drain some water out when the boat was back on the trailer and I pulled the drain plug. Oh well, that motor sure runs sweet.
Quote from: Thornback on March 15, 2019, 07:59:17 AM
Went fishing yesterday morning and the boat leaked. Not much but I did drain some water out when the boat was back on the trailer and I pulled the drain plug. Oh well, that motor sure runs sweet.
Dang this looks like something you just might have to live with. :surrender: At least the motor ran sweet. ;D
Quote from: Thornback on March 15, 2019, 07:59:17 AM
Went fishing yesterday morning and the boat leaked. Not much but I did drain some water out when the boat was back on the trailer and I pulled the drain plug. Oh well, that motor sure runs sweet.
Thorn, do you have an automatic bilge pump? May just have to install one them.
The dealer offered to install an auto bilge pump float switch but i haven't taken them up on the offer, yet.
Quote from: Thornback on March 20, 2019, 08:20:22 AM
The dealer offered to install an auto bilge pump float switch but i haven't taken them up on the offer, yet.
The next step, if you decide not to pursue the source of the leak any longer, would be an automatic bilge. Just my .02. Thank you for the updates. Hope your issue gets resolved.
While I think an auto bilge is great, not sure it would ever turn on with the small amount of water you've been seeing lately BUT I would definitely install one
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I realize it's a long shot here if anybody sees this reply on a 3 year old thread but I have to try.
I have a 2019 Tracker PT175, nearly identical to the boat Thornback is having water leak issues with. I'm seeing nearly the exact same problem - taking on water only while cruising on plane. I've tried nearly every solution that has been mentioned in the thread to no avail, water still coming in. The one thing I noticed this week while staring, frustrated, at my lightly used boat and completely out of ideas is how the rub rails interact with the water while on plane with a little bit of weight on the boat (~400lbs of passengers). I noticed that the rear corners of the rails tend to get inundated with water while on plane. I pulled the rear caps and removed some of the rubber railing, about 4 inches forward of the stern, only to find two holes (~3/4" dia) under the rubber inside the railing on both port and starboard sides of the boat.
My main question, does anybody else have these holes and why are they there? Further, I'm wondering if this is where the water is getting forced in. Picture attached.
I'm going to try to plug these holes before my next outing and see if that helps.
I had forgotten about this thread until I saw the latest post today. Just to let everyone know I traded my bass boat about a year ago for a Bass Buggy pontoon boat. My main reason for trading was my age (82) causing me to be unsteady in the bass boat. My pontoon boat is very wide and has a flat deck with a railing all the way around. "No leaks, no runs, no errors". Maybe the person who ended up with my bass boat has solved the leaking problem. I sure hope so.
That CAN'T BE NORMAL!! Wow that's insane! I have the PT 190 and thst rub rail has come loose a few times (thanks to trees/stumps) and I've Never seen more than 1 little hole where the screw went thru. And yes the back ends run super low and in turns or while slowing down go under the water easily. Your 19 should still be under its Hull warranty and I'd make Tracker EXPLAIN THAT!! Wow just wow what fn idiot drills huge holes in a boat?!?!?!
Quote-
I realize it's a long shot here if anybody sees this reply on a 3 year old thread but I have to try.
I have a 2019 Tracker PT175, nearly identical to the boat Thornback is having water leak issues with. I'm seeing nearly the exact same problem - taking on water only while cruising on plane. I've tried nearly every solution that has been mentioned in the thread to no avail, water still coming in. The one thing I noticed this week while staring, frustrated, at my lightly used boat and completely out of ideas is how the rub rails interact with the water while on plane with a little bit of weight on the boat (~400lbs of passengers). I noticed that the rear corners of the rails tend to get inundated with water while on plane. I pulled the rear caps and removed some of the rubber railing, about 4 inches forward of the stern, only to find two holes (~3/4" dia) under the rubber inside the railing on both port and starboard sides of the boat.
My main question, does anybody else have these holes and why are they there? Further, I'm wondering if this is where the water is getting forced in. Picture attached.
I'm going to try to plug these holes before my next outing and see if that helps.
[/quote]
My 2019 Tracker PT 190 has the same holes. The dealer said they use them to spray the foam in but I read elsewhere they're used to hold the hull during painting. I filled mine in with expanding foam because my boat was leaking bad. It wasn't the problem though. I jacked the front of the boat all the way up on the trailer and filled the livewell with water and had water running out of the boat. I took the screen off the return for the recirculator system and plugged the hole and the leak stopped. Ran the boat with the return hole plugged and it was dry as a bone. Going to the dealer soon to get repaired hopefully under warranty. I just bought the boat and it only had 6.8 hours on it. I bet the recirculator pump which sits under the livewell has burst. The boat came from WV and I bet it had water in it while stored and the pump burst during a freeze. I can't see the pump for the gas tank but the dealer says it can be accessed. I can see that that's where the water is dripping at though.
Quote from: PlausibleReliability on June 10, 2022, 08:30:58 AM
I realize it's a long shot here if anybody sees this reply on a 3 year old thread but I have to try.
I have a 2019 Tracker PT175, nearly identical to the boat Thornback is having water leak issues with. I'm seeing nearly the exact same problem - taking on water only while cruising on plane. I've tried nearly every solution that has been mentioned in the thread to no avail, water still coming in. The one thing I noticed this week while staring, frustrated, at my lightly used boat and completely out of ideas is how the rub rails interact with the water while on plane with a little bit of weight on the boat (~400lbs of passengers). I noticed that the rear corners of the rails tend to get inundated with water while on plane. I pulled the rear caps and removed some of the rubber railing, about 4 inches forward of the stern, only to find two holes (~3/4" dia) under the rubber inside the railing on both port and starboard sides of the boat.
My main question, does anybody else have these holes and why are they there? Further, I'm wondering if this is where the water is getting forced in. Picture attached.
I'm going to try to plug these holes before my next outing and see if that helps.
Good detective work, I hope this solves your problem! ~c~
Let us know if that's the problem.
Rodney
I have tried plugging all four live well ports at the transom, both intake and both drain ports (two live wells), from the outside. A test after that still showed a prominent leak and the plugs were still in place. I will do some more experimenting with them when time allows.
I've now also filled the holes under the rub rails that I originally posted about. I have yet to get out on the water since.