I found some Daiwa J-braid 8 pound on sale Monday, spooled it onto my new to me Mitchell 310 yesterday afternoon, tied on a 1/16 oz Arkie wacky head, attached the same worm that got so much attention yesterday morning, and tried it all out this morning.
Not too sure how I feel about it. Casts smooth and easy, and my palomer knot on the jig head seemed strong.
But the first thing I noticed is that I kept getting knots approximately 5' from the hook. Incidentally, about the distance from the hook keeper to the rod tip. I do pull my line fairly taut to help avoid tangling, but not taut enough to flex the tip or cause any kinks when using mono.
Also, these knots weren't all in the exact same place. They varied from about 4'-6'.
My guess is that maybe I did cause a small stress of some sort on the line. Put together with the diameter being about the same as 2lb mono at .005mm/.013", I think that's what was causing the knotting. That's very thin, reminiscent of sewing thread, and the minimum this reel lists for mono. Maybe these knots were forming exactly at 5', and then sliding a foot or so in either direction as they pulled tight.
After untangling 2-3 times, I just cut off about 8' and retied.
I'd already tried adjusting my casting force. When I first tried this rod and reel out yesterday, it'd come to me with what looked like 15# mono and over filled like crazy. It took a fairly strong flick to toss the same worm TX rigged with an 1/8oz weight, and a bare twitch to throw it the same distance with a 1/16oz jig head.
Once I got the bothersome section cut out, it all went well until the last cast, I got another knot in the line, about 15 feet from the hook. I reeled it in until the knot was about a foot from my reel and was in the process of untangling it when a fish hit the worm I'd left in the water. Crap! I said screw the knot, and got to work trying to get that fish. He pulled it up under a small lay down and let it go, getting me hung on a submerged branch. I thought, okay then, perfect opportunity to test the knot strength at the hook. I don't mind losing a 60 cent jig head once to see how it performs.
So I gave it a series of tugs, increasing force. Then yanks. Snatches. In the end, I took off my shirt, wrapped it around my hand, wrapped some line around that, and hauled back on it. I applied a lot more than 8 pounds of force. First pull did nothing but lift the lay down a bit. This is actually a small sapling about 7' tall that I'd chopped down a few weeks ago to get it out of my way, left it laying in the water cause I reckoned fish would like it. I backed up a few feet and snatched on it. Again, a LOT more than 8 pounds of force. The hook came loose, flew right at my face. I barely had time to turn my head, and it tangled in my beard.
It was almost time for my shift, so I cut the line and drove on in to the office. Thought my boss and coworkers were going to die of laughter when I walked in with a hook and plastic worm in my beard. Shoulda used the back door. Went to the can with a small comb and spent the next five minutes or so untangling the hook, worm, and small chunk of wood.
Then drew out some line from the reel, cut out this new knot, and reattached the jig head yet again.
So, first time with braid, several knots, no breakages, lost a fish, coulda lost an eye and almost lost a chunk of beard. But still, I kinda like it.
Y'all reckon heavier braid could fix this knotting issue? Daiwa's website lists their 20lb as the same diameter as 6lb mono, which is the max mono this reel calls for, and their 15lb braid as the same as 4lb mono. But I worry, this being a light reel, if I use 20lb and catch a fish too big, will it trash the reel? Max drag weight is just over 6 pounds, 6.14 if I recall correctly. But realistically, biggest bass I've caught so far has been maybe 3 pounds or so, and I'm not targeting big bass with this rod and reel. My micro 33 is what I caught that bass on while jigging for crappie with 8lb mono and it had the drag screaming bloody murder the whole time.
I would guess heavier braid would relieve some of the wind knot issues. 8 lb. is mighty skinny! :)
I would use heavier braid. The drag should keep the fish from tearing up your reel if you accidentally hook a huge one.
Dang sure is! I got it because it was on sale for $3.99. Been wanting to try braid just for the heck of it, but didn't want to pay braid prices because I didn't know if I'd like it. 8lb was all Cabela's had on sale.
Come to think of it, they did have some spools of much heavier braid leaders or something on sale, but they were only something like 15 or 20 feet. Not sure, but I remember thinking when I looked at it, "dang, I can spit that far."
If I were to use heavier braid and hook a much bigger fish than this reel is built for, do you think it'd damage the reel? Or would the drag save it?
For the record, I don't reel against the drag and I don't max out the drag. I just let the fish run and start reeling again when they stop.
On this reel, being so light, I turned the drag knob until it was maxed out, then backed off a full turn. I estimate that gives me about a 4 pound drag.
Quote from: DonM on July 26, 2017, 09:48:17 AM
I would use heavier braid. The drag should keep the fish from tearing up your reel if you accidentally hook a huge one.
Thanks! Didn't get to read that before my last post.
Quote from: SteelHorseCowboy on July 26, 2017, 09:12:22 AM
So, first time with braid, several knots, no breakages, lost a fish, coulda lost an eye and almost lost a chunk of beard. But still, I kinda like it.
It's official. You sir are a true angler. ~beer~
Btw, sounds close to my first date with my now wife, but I kinda liked her anyway, so i kept her. ;) :)
As for the knots something to think about. How did you spool the line? If the line has twist its going to easily ball up into small knots.
I have used Daiwa J-braid and others have found the same as I researched it
after I had a issue myself. The line works quite well for just regular fishing as long as there is no
- The bail accidentally closes during an attempt to cast a long cast.
- No backlash happens on an attempt to cast a long cast.
Daiwa J-braids biggest and only downfall I have found is sudden, and I do mean sudden like instant stoppage, as described above will cause the line to snap. And you can kiss what ever lure bye bye as it sails off into the sunset. I have not tried this with a finesse lure (light weight) but anything like a 1/2 oz lure it is easily repeatable to prove its not a fluke. I don't recall the YouTube channel but there is a guy that did line reviews and he had the same issue with Daiwa J-braid. It just cant take a instant jerk. As far as fish hitting the lure and all that its very strong for pulls like you found out.
Here is the review I saw start at 15:00 for the brief version.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0Tf5h36-3k
some brand of braid are very bad about wind knots. i use stren braid and have knot had any issues, and the power pro slick 8 has worked well for me also. i use it in the #10 quit often to crappie fish with.
bo
Quote from: merc1997 on July 26, 2017, 05:32:52 PM
some brand of braid are very bad about wind knots. i use stren braid and have knot had any issues, and the power pro slick 8 has worked well for me also. i use it in the #10 quit often to crappie fish with.
bo
FYI Dicks has the Stren Braid Fishing Line on sale cheap. $8.97 for 150 yards (https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/stren-braid-fishing-line-15stnustrnbrd10lbfli/15stnustrnbrd10lbfli?Clearance=true&categoryId=284086) :)
Thanks for the tips and recommendations y'all!
Steve, I absolutely HATE line twist. I spooled this one the same as I do my baitcasters and lone spincaster with mono. Filled the spool with the proper amount, and I looked up pictures for reference with this reel and did the best I could; it seems to stack a bit to the rear of the spool. Then I tie a swivel and another loop of line on, tie off to whatever I can find, walk off with the rod and reel until all the line is pulled out, then reel myself back to the swivel, doing my best to keep the line off the ground. So basically, I spool it twice. Once off the roll, then again with the line pulled out straight.
And with this little rod and reel, I just don't plan on tossing anything heavier than a 1/4oz between weight and plastic.
Yeah the line twist was just a thought. Some people dont know about spooling one up.
As far as the 1/4 oz being the heaviest weight you use you might be OK. But being your using a very light 8lb diameter that could still be something to watch out for. I was using 30lb and had it happen to me several times. Just something to be aware of is all. ;)
Quote from: SteveTX on July 26, 2017, 05:42:51 PM
FYI Dicks has the Stren Braid Fishing Line on sale cheap. $8.97 for 150 yards (https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/stren-braid-fishing-line-15stnustrnbrd10lbfli/15stnustrnbrd10lbfli?Clearance=true&categoryId=284086) :)
i bet it is not fluorescent.
bo
Quote from: SteveTX on July 26, 2017, 06:47:59 PM
Yeah the line twist was just a thought. Some people dont know about spooling one up.
As far as the 1/4 oz being the heaviest weight you use you might be OK. But being your using a very light 8lb diameter that could still be something to watch out for. I was using 30lb and had it happen to me several times. Just something to be aware of is all. ;)
I have no idea if that's a normal or even correct way of spooling it. I just know there's more than one way to skin a cat, and I've used swivels to prevent line twists and for speedy lure changes in the past, so it made sense to me.
I've been tossing lighter stuff, but yesterday evening and this morning I was throwing 1/4 oz lures and the line performed perfectly. I'll definitely be upgrading to something with a 6-8lb mono diameter, which puts me in the 15-20lb braid range according to this from Daiwa. I know braid diameter may vary a bit from maker to maker, and type to type just as mono does, but I'd reckon this chart is a good starting point.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170727/160b415ebd29e800c05e1f8e682c03b7.jpg)
Also...
For all the pride I take in being so observant with people, OMG I can overlook some of the most incredibly obvious things in nature.
With the laydown I created. Deal is, this little fishing spot I love is a very small point about 4 feet wide and thick trees on both sides. It had that seven foot or so chinese tallow tree dead center of it. Chopped it down, and left it laying in the water hoping it'd attract some fish and I could fish to either side of it.
I've noticed that earlier this year I was catching nothing but bass from that spot, just about anywhere I could cast during spawn. And the last few times I've fished that spot, I'd gotten frustrated. If I got anywhere near this 7'X3' laydown I'd created, bluegill would swarm my bait.
Now, I don't mind catching bluegill for fun, except they seem to stink like hell and these bluegill are are little silver dollar sized turds, not even big enough to take my bait, just big enough to tease and annoy, and they're being extremely aggressive.
The last couple of small bass I've caught there, and the one that hung me up on said tree yesterday, have been in the areas just far enough away that it's been a nuisance to pop my lure out of the water before the bluegill start swarming it. Remember I said I'd left my worm in the water to untangle a knot about 15' from it? I only pop it out of the water because they're annoying me. Like I said, can't catch 'em cause they're too small to take the lures I'm throwing, and they swarm it like piranhas.
See where this is going? I can be so freaking stupid sometimes.
I'm going to dig some grubs and bugs this evening, go out tomorrow morning with this light rig, tiny hooks and bobber, catch some of those baby bluegill and use 'em for bait with a bigger rig. Or, find some little bluegill swimbaits at Academy. I'm a bit of a softie when it comes to hurting critters I don't intend to eat.
These bass are hanging around the outlying areas of this laydown because I've given them an all-you-can-eat buffet. If I toss a bluegill or bluegill swimmer in deeper water, may catch a bigger fish. Or even dinks, I don't care, they're still fun for catch and release.
Quote from: merc1997 on July 27, 2017, 02:12:49 AM
i bet it is not fluorescent.
bo
It's the Clear Blue color here is the link https://m.dickssportinggoods.com/p/stren-braid-fishing-line-15stnustrnbrd10lbfli/15stnustrnbrd10lbfli?Clearance=true&categoryId=284086
Found 30# Trilene Professional Grade on sale at Academy for $11 or so. There were others for the same price, but lighter weight and the Trilene looked to have the smoother finish.
I went ahead and grabbed some, since I was already there and the extra price is worth avoiding going to the mall in Monroe.
I fish dark but low turbid waters mostly, and both of these braids are dark green, which I've read is good for this type of water.
Would it behoove me to go ahead and use a clear mono leader anyway? I have plenty laying around that'd be suitable.
If so, how long? And how should I attach it? Line to line, a swivel, some other way?
Quote from: SteelHorseCowboy on July 27, 2017, 08:16:57 AM
Also...
For all the pride I take in being so observant with people, OMG I can overlook some of the most incredibly obvious things in nature.
With the laydown I created. Deal is, this little fishing spot I love is a very small point about 4 feet wide and thick trees on both sides. It had that seven foot or so chinese tallow tree dead center of it. Chopped it down, and left it laying in the water hoping it'd attract some fish and I could fish to either side of it.
I've noticed that earlier this year I was catching nothing but bass from that spot, just about anywhere I could cast during spawn. And the last few times I've fished that spot, I'd gotten frustrated. If I got anywhere near this 7'X3' laydown I'd created, bluegill would swarm my bait.
Now, I don't mind catching bluegill for fun, except they seem to stink like hell and these bluegill are are little silver dollar sized turds, not even big enough to take my bait, just big enough to tease and annoy, and they're being extremely aggressive.
The last couple of small bass I've caught there, and the one that hung me up on said tree yesterday, have been in the areas just far enough away that it's been a nuisance to pop my lure out of the water before the bluegill start swarming it. Remember I said I'd left my worm in the water to untangle a knot about 15' from it? I only pop it out of the water because they're annoying me. Like I said, can't catch 'em cause they're too small to take the lures I'm throwing, and they swarm it like piranhas.
See where this is going? I can be so freaking stupid sometimes.
I'm going to dig some grubs and bugs this evening, go out tomorrow morning with this light rig, tiny hooks and bobber, catch some of those baby bluegill and use 'em for bait with a bigger rig. Or, find some little bluegill swimbaits at Academy. I'm a bit of a softie when it comes to hurting critters I don't intend to eat.
These bass are hanging around the outlying areas of this laydown because I've given them an all-you-can-eat buffet. If I toss a bluegill or bluegill swimmer in deeper water, may catch a bigger fish. Or even dinks, I don't care, they're still fun for catch and release.
Bluegill usually spawn right after the bass, at least up here and they often use the same bedding areas the bass used. Bass hang around on the perimeter to dine on the the nesting gills and their fry. This may be what you have going on. Those gills are a good food source for the bass and will keep them in the area so I wouldn't try to get rid of too many of the gills. You just may have created your own personal honey hole that in time might produce some quality bass. :-*
Quote from: Smallie_Stalker on July 27, 2017, 03:07:30 PM
Bluegill usually spawn right after the bass, at least up here and they often use the same bedding areas the bass used. Bass hang around on the perimeter to dine on the the nesting gills and their fry. This may be what you have going on. Those gills are a good food source for the bass and will keep them in the area so I wouldn't try to get rid of too many of the gills. You just may have created your own personal honey hole that in time might produce some quality bass. :-*
Well I didn't look at it quite the same way...
There's another spot on the bank about 30 yards away. It's not clear enough to fish from unless you're using a cane pole, and that's actually where I found all the trash.
With this gravel pit being so overgrown on the banks, I've been considering building a few small fishing platforms like mini piers since I'm apparently no good at boat building or keeping a boat I've built...
If I do, I can place one there.
So, after about two weeks of using this light braid, the three baitcasters I use are also spooled with braid.
I don't see myself ever going back to mono. The near absolute lack of memory has produced the most forgiving casting I've ever had. May try fluorocarbon someday, but for now I'm happy as a pig in slop with braid.
I've also figured out for sure why I was getting those wind knots, it's something I was starting to suspect. Basically, I was trying too hard to cast light weights. I was pitching them hard enough to cause the tip of that light rod to whip, basically snatching quite a bit of line off the spool all at once with no place to go real fast, so it was just balling up. Using less force and more follow through has completely cured this problem, and has also greatly improved my accuracy with this spinning reel.
Quote from: SteelHorseCowboy on August 07, 2017, 07:57:18 PM
So, after about two weeks of using this light braid, the three baitcasters I use are also spooled with braid.
I don't see myself ever going back to mono. The near absolute lack of memory has produced the most forgiving casting I've ever had. May try fluorocarbon someday, but for now I'm happy as a pig in slop with braid.
Great! Glad to hear you like it. (https://www.ultimatebass.com/bass-fishing-forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fafksite.com%2Fimages%2Fsmileys%2Fthumbup.gif&hash=6e540aa007cf5b3859e0f583c8eba5990ddc9743)
I personally like braid not so much because of memory but the sensitivity. Of course I use bait casters 98% of the time so memory isn't as big a deal. With braid I can cast as far as possible for me and its like the lure is 5 yards out when I feel that subtle tick on the other end. Extremely hard to give that sensitivity up and go back to mono unless its a treble hook bait.
Quote from: SteveTX on August 08, 2017, 12:49:57 AM
Great! Glad to hear you like it. (https://www.ultimatebass.com/bass-fishing-forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fafksite.com%2Fimages%2Fsmileys%2Fthumbup.gif&hash=6e540aa007cf5b3859e0f583c8eba5990ddc9743)
I personally like braid not so much because of memory but the sensitivity. Of course I use bait casters 98% of the time so memory isn't as big a deal. With braid I can cast as far as possible for me and its like the lure is 5 yards out when I feel that subtle tick on the other end. Extremely hard to give that sensitivity up and go back to mono unless its a treble hook bait.
You're very much right on that count. I have two Berkley Lightning Rods, one short one for my other lightweight rig and one 6'6" for my 5000, and been using pretty good copolymers. Going to a light action pole like this one on my spinning reel sacrifices a LOT of sensitivity, even with the braid. It's almost like fishing with a half cooked spaghetti noodle. Most of the little dinks I lose with it are due to the pole being a bit too soft. It's something I can work on, but I think I'll be completely incapable of hooking anything big, I don't think it has enough power to punch a hook through anything tougher, even though I'm using Owner hooks.
Fishing with a Zebco Z-cast rod is like using a piece of driftwood. It's what came with the Zebco 33 combo I got my daughter. She said she wasn't sure if she'd care for fishing and wanted something cheap. Now she likes fishing almost as much as me and her mom, and wants a better rig. I'll probably get another Lightning Rod and give her my Ambassadeur 5500 C3. She's been trying to talk me out of my 5000 since I let her try it out, but that'll never happen. She can do like I did, fall in love with daddy's and go buy her own when he doesn't give it up!
I know there's better equipment out there, but this is what I can afford. Actually, with the amount of overtime that was on this last paycheck, I may be able to pick up a good rod for her today. Need to go through that 5500 again, I noticed an odd thing last time I was tinkering with it. Reel it pretty quickly and then stop, and the spool makes about another half turn and makes a ratcheting sound.
Streelhorse, I've bought several of the abu garcia 4600's off evilbay for $33 or under. They clean up okay,and all most of them need is cleaned,lubed,and maybe a set carbontex drag washers. My last one was a really nice 4600 hardly used at all,no scratches dents or anything.Discovered it had a loose pawl and some gunk on levelwind worm gear.After I cleaned that up it works perfect.
Not sure I want to go to braid,I think Trilene xt from wallymart is expensive enough...
AG round reels are most of what I have. A 4600 Royal Express, a 5000, 5500 C3, and a 6500/5500/5000 high speed Frankenreel. Seems to be an old 6500 high speed with the left plate from an old 5500 all on a 5000 frame. It's my second favorite of the batch. I service them all myself.
I recently had an issue with my 5000 making a racket, and discovered it was because I hadn't snugged down the thumbscrews well enough. I checked that on the 5500, but it seems there's something else going on in there. I'll find it, I ain't worried.
You can find good braid on sale for less than good mono. I paid around $3 per spool of the Daiwa J-braid 8lb on my spinning reel, and around $11-$12 for the 30 and 40 lb spools of Trilene professional grade.
The price was the biggest thing holding me back too. But I was looking at all the mono I'd gone through and how much that cost ($12 spool for the p-line I was using), lost lures and stuff like that. Wanted to try braid, and happened across it on sale. At long as I can keep getting my hands on a good deal, I'll never get mono for myself again.
Steelhorse,my objections to the braided line is that it requires a leader in most cases. Then I've read where if you cast it incorrectly it will snap at the knot,doesn't sound particularly forgiving. I do plan to buy a new-fangled modern reel next month and maybe I'll try some braid on that.
Most every baitcaster I have is an abu garcia round reel. I think I currently have 3 4600's (one of them a C4) ,one Royal express 4600,an old and troublesome 5000,and a nice 5500c3. When I got interested in fishing again I wanted something with a smaller spool and a faster retrieve,I started collecting 4600's then...
Most of the time I have no trouble taking apart,cleaning ,and lubing the round reels. I find spinning reels more of a challenge,then again I've never claimed to be the brightest light in the hall. ;)
Next month I'll buy a Daiwa Tatula to try out,heard a lot of people here praise it. I might put braid on that..
I'm wanting to try out a Daiwa Tatula myself, can't really afford one though. I have an old Daiwa BC, I believe it's an old Procaster model, a pr1-bb2 or something like that. Seems like one sweet reel, but I haven't had a chance to really try it out more than just playing around in the front yard.
As far as how unforgiving braid can be, so far I've found it to be more forgiving. Beyond the wind knots I've experienced and have corrected, I've experienced exactly one backlash with my Black Max. I made the mistake of pitching light plastics and then switching to casting a much heavier crank without re-adjusting the spool tension. My crank traveled about 15 feet and came to a HARD snapping stop. This was with 30lb Trilene pro grade about an hour ago.
Of course I retied, because I pulled off a few feet of slightly damaged line. It wasn't bad, but it looked a bit scuffed and stressed. Lost about 20 feet total, but that was more a preventative measure and only due to my own negligence.
As far as using a leader, there seems to be three camps: yea, nay, and situation dependent. Reading comments from the nay and situational camps, I've decided to go without leaders. The naysayers produce a convincing argument, and the water types I fish are those that the situation dependent folks seem to go leaderless: tannic stained and/or slightly silty.
But I'm not a successful enough angler to declare whether or not it's affected my catch rate. I blame that more on my skill (or lack thereof) rather than the line. I'm still getting plenty of action, bites and solid hits, I just suck at hooking 'em and bringing 'em in.
Steelhorse I appreciate the feedback on braided line.It's really the only way old fogies like me can get trusted info on the new stuff. :)
Everyone seems to distrust the heathen chinee(kastking) line. I've seen some on ebay that was listed as 8 strand. I've heard it's coarser than the stuff in stores over here ,but sturdy enough. I suspect the braided line is all made in china like everything else. The stuff in stores is a bit more refined than what they sell on ebay. ;)
I have an old abu garcia usa1 casting reel. I cleaned it all up when I went through my reel box. I suspect the quality is near bottom rung. It won't cast near as far as my swedish made ambassadeurs ,so I didn't mess further with it.
Currently have an abu 4600c4 mounted on a bps tourney rod,and a Pflueger President 6935 mounted on an old bps power pro rod. Those will be primary equipment when I start. Nearly finished getting tackle together. Not much longer now. ;)
I say go for it. Like I said, it's the price that always held me back. It was just a perfect storm of sorts, everything fell into place and I got the chance to try it out on the cheap.
I would steer towards the more established brands, but you can still find that fairly cheap with a watchful eye.
My opinion, well worth it.
But, if you decide you still just can't justify the cost (I had a very hard time doing so even at the price I paid), may I recommend Sufix Pro-Mix?
I'm getting the impression you're coming back to fishing after a long hiatus just like I did. I hadn't fished regularly in a little over ten years, and I was blown away at how much the options in fishing line had changed in just that amount of time.
It's a co-polymer, I'd never even heard of copolymer before I joined the service and left the tackle at dear old mom's. It seems to be on sale just about everywhere for around $5 per spool. I've tried several monos since I got back into fishing this year. I've thrown away more cheap line this year than some people probably may buy in a decade. I found the Sufix on clearance somewhere for $2-$3, couldn't pass it up for that price, and discovered I like it much better than the P-line I'd been using.
Man, I could write a whole article on a bass newbie's adventures in looking for decent line on tight funds. That's the best real BUDGET line I've found. Good line don't get much cheaper than that, and I don't think line that cheap can possibly get any better. I looked up some reviews and discussions on other forums, and a lot of folks seem to feel it's better than Sufix's newer high end copolymers. I can't attest to that personally as I haven't compared the two, but if I'm in a situation where I no longer have braid available at a price I can afford, I've got several spools of Pro-Mix stashed and I'll probably snag a few more here and there just to have on hand.
Steelhorse,I think the last time I went fishing was back in the '80's. So,yes,it's been a very long time for me. I feel like a noobie,still remember a few things though.
Co-polyner,fluoro carbon, and braid that's nothing like my dad used on his thumb-buster reels. Some of the new stuff seems amazing,some of it seems to be status symbols. Apparently we've entered the age of 'boutique' fishing.
I will look into the suffix pro-mix line. I use to like Trilene xl on baitcasters,it seemed to work a bit better than the Trilene xt which is widely available.
I'm afraid I have to ask,would you put braid on your 5000 or one of my 4600's? The clothes dryer defeated me,and my truck's a/c has issues,so getting a daiwa tatula next month is looking a little questionable. Also how much braid is required? I suspect I'll be going for something like 50lb test braid so the diameter will be big enough to avoid slipping over the spool and into the gears.
Thanks :)
I actually have either 30 or 40 lb braid on my 5000 sitting right next to me, I've had no issues at all with it. I'm not sure which really, I intended to use 30 but my spool of 40 looks a bit thinner than the 30.
What I did, using different line diameters between braid and mono (you know you'll need to tie on to a mono backing, right?), I walked approximately 100 yards of mono off my reel, tied on braid, and filled the spool from there.
If you match mono and braid diameters, the length of line you take off, should be the same as you put on. I think 50 braid is the same diameter as 16 mono? So if you're already spooled with 16 mono, you should be able to remove 100 yards mono and replace with 100 yards 50 braid.
If you're starting with an empty spool, it's only slightly more complicated. Look at the line capacity for your reel. I'd match the diameters between braid and mono when starting with an empty reel. I'd walk off however much braid you think you'll actually be using (for me, about 50 yards would be fitting), put enough mono on the reel to make up the difference, then spool on the remainder in that braid.
Starting with a full reel takes more guesswork and is less precise, which is what I did. You use more line than really necessary. I recommend starting with an empty reel.
More experienced anglers here should feel welcome to add to this or correct me.
Steelhorse ,thanks for that it makes sense to me. I'll prob ably go that route when I get some braid. Walk a hundred yards off then tie on braid,good simple instructions for a dim-witted old fart like me.:)
Since I need to put off the tatula for a month at least I'll probably invest in some upgrade parts for the abu garcia 4600. I am pretty set on a dual bearing levelwind kit,and a little longer handle. I'm less certain about installing hybrid spool bearings. Some people say it's good,and other say the faster spool rotation leads to more backlashes.
The other thing will be polishing some of the parts. I've heard it's a good idea to polish spool axle ends and the pinion gear id.
Not sure if replacing the large gear in the sideplate with one that has a bearing is going to help or not.
Did you find a reel for your daughter?
I've given her the 5500C3. I did comment on your upgrade thread, I'd start with the polishing or spool bearings. Polishing in my 5000 was about perfect, upgrading to bearings (now making it a C3) was a bit much and took some practice to get used to it. I'd actually considered reverting back to the bushings, but after getting used to the faster spool and less resistance, I don't think so. May someday add a mag brake to it. It's not the initial cast to me that was the issue, it's that once my lure/bait hit the water, the spool would just keep going... and going... and going...
If it didn't all pile up on the level wind once my lure hit the water, I could probably throw out 100 yards of line on a 30 yard cast! Okay, that's an exaggeration, but you get the gist.
Steelhorse, okay,I was going to offer one of my "less-loved" reels,but I'm glad you got her one. :)
I'll probably start polishing parts tomorrow,the bearings seem to work okay. Probably next month I'll grab one of the dual bearing levelwind kits and order a commie handle. That will be a decent start to "hot-rodding" the old reel. :)
Wow man, I appreciate the thought!
She'd fallen in love with my 5000, but does hate red and I ain't giving that one up anyway. She can have it when I'm dead. She didn't know I had the silver 5500C3 and I'd somewhat forgotten about it. I can't find any functional difference between the two, at all. Especially after upgrading the 5000 to a C3. Same gear ratio, same retrieve rate (I think the 5000 is a half inch less per turn), same number of bearings now, and in her second favorite color for gadgets and accessories. Her favorite is black, but my only black one is the Royal Express. I have plans for that one and she prefers the push button release rather than the thumb bar anyway.
And heck yeah man, hotrod the snot out of 'em! There's tons of aftermarket parts out there and interchangeable parts, may be tricky to find some of them though. Mike's reel repair is a good start, and if you're on facebook, check out "We who loves the Abu Ambassadeur" page. Lot of cool members there from overseas too, that may hook you up with Euro and Jap exclusive parts and whole reels.
I'm planning low speed gearing and power handle for my Frankenreel, and have several more mods and tweaks in mind for the 5000 and 4600 RE. On the RE, two definite changes will be swapping the frame for an all metal one, and the right plate with one that has the IAR clutch bearings. I'm keeping the AR dog on the Frankenreel for catfish, as I've seen clutch bearing sleeves fail catastrophically under massive catfish. Watched a thumb get dislocated that way, that was interesting.
I haven't looked into gear ratio changes for the RE, but I'm considering upgrading the speed on either it or my 5000.
I need more Ambassadeurs... and rods to put 'em on!
Just did some quick looking around. Looks like the RE already is a higher gearing. In my defense, I haven't really used it other than fooling around with it, and it didn't have decals.
Steelhorse, I will probably end up selling the 5000 I have on ebay for parts,I also have a Royal Express 4600 I'm not fond of,and an old 1000 that has zinc gearing(wall-hanger). Will probably sell all of them in a package deal. I figure if it gets around $50,plus shipping it will help pay for upgrading my c4.
Went out and bought a new clothes dryer so I've definetely "downgraded" the bank account. :(
Looking at a couple 4x10x4 hybrid bearings from boca,and maybe a commie reel handle. That should do more for the 4600 than anything else I can think of. I might also order 500m of the 8 strand braid...
Going to take it apart in a little bit and see about polishing and what parts need it.
What all is wrong with the 5000 and RE? Have pics?
The 5000 I think needs parts,but can't swear that's all it needs, the Royal Express is fine,it functions great,I'm just not a fan of the graphite reel seat. I'll see if I can dig them out after a bit and take pictures. I might as well learn how to post pics. :)
Gone ahead with dual bearing levelwind kit and a longer handle from the commies. ;)
Ok I took a few pics of the reels I want to get rid,as you can see there isn't anything special in this collection.
If I can spare the funds this payday, I'd love to have that 5000.
Can't make any promises though. Had to take some time off work to pick one kid up at Dallas Love airport and handle all this school registration bull crap. Doing an "out of district transfer". We live exactly 1.7 miles from the parish line according to my trip odometer, 2.7 miles and 8.2 miles, respectively, to a great junior high and high school that my lady and I both pass on our way to work and back home...
But going to school in our district means a two hour bus ride for the kids to schools that are falling apart, have failing ratings, and one has a bullet hole in the main entrance door.
Three vacation days to cross the river, so to speak. It's all done but one signature.
Man that's terrible,no way you could write the school board and get them to consider moving your kids to a better school? Seems a raw deal to me.
Pulled apart 4600 and sat down and have been polishing the heck out of the parts. The pinion gear is pretty rough. I did what I could with it. Polished drag washers,worked on main brass gear,but it looks like a Monday morning,Friday afternoon part. Polished inside of brake drum too. Polished axle ends as best I could. Put all the small parts in a pill bottle filled with goo-gone I keep on the inside workbench. It takes a while to work,but by morning those parts should be clean.
Hoping to finish it up tomorrow.
Man, you're going a bit further into it than I did!
And the school thing is pretty much worked out. The last hurdle is for our school district's superintendent's release letter. It's already been written and emailed to the district superintendent over the schools we're sending them to. It just hasn't quite made the rounds to all the appropriate parties yet, the asst. superintendent and principals, but since it's made it from one head honcho to the other, they start tomorrow at the good schools that I could see from my front porch if trees weren't in the way, rather than the failing schools over 30 miles away.
Steelhorse,that's great news about the kid's schools. :)
Finished up 4600c4 this morning cleaned and lubed parts and took it out in the narrow backyard. I can only practice overhead casting it's that narrow.Got the adjustments made and practiced casting a 3/8 oz lead weight. First thing I noticed was that the retrieval was smoother feeling,easier. In casting I think I gained roughly 5 feet of distance,the reel makes a "whir" sound as it goes out. I'm pleased with the results.
Now the weird part, as I was casting I noticed one of our cats in the screen room next to me,was following the retrieved weight with great interest. I thought well it's got his attention at least. About three more casts and a hawk flew out from behind the house and landed nearly on top of the lead weight. Don't know what kind of hawk ,but we see them frequently.
I told the hawk that was looking around for the prey, "That's not for you." It took off.. Yeah,believe it or not. :)
The reel polish was a great success,so I might grab the "backup" 4600 and start working on it.
Lol, I had a Mockingbird come check out a weight a was tossing while I was test casting this old squeaky Daiwa I've had laying around.
The situation with that reel REALLY sucks! I love the way it casts and retrieves and it has a flippin switch. Not sure how I'm supposed to work that feature yet. I notice when it's on, the thumb bar release automatically pops up when you let go, rather than waiting until you start reeling.
But no matter where I apply lube, I can't silence that freaking squeak! I even laid out all the parts and just hosed them down with Ballistol, and it didn't make the slightest bit of difference!
It only squeaks when retrieving, and while I was writing all of that I realized I may have neglected lubing the handle knobs.
*facepalm*
Ugh. I'll check on that this evening.
Steelhorse,Ain't that always the case? The little things that you overlook. :) I had the same issue and finally figured it out...
Well,the 2nd 4600 was not a great success,but I figure after I add the dual bearing levelwind and idler gear it might smooth up some.
Considering doing the polishing on my 5500c3 this afternoon. Trying to finish up a kydex holster jig for my 6" gp1oo at the moment. Should not take much longer...
What kind of Daiwa is it? Plenty of people here seem to like Daiwa's ,might be worth putting money in. :)
A Pr1-2bi. I think it's the predecessor to the procaster, or a budget model based on the procaster? Not sure, can't seem to find very much info on it.
It's ugly as hell, but I care more about function. The only thing wrong with it is some of the markings are rubbed off, and that blamin squeak!
Function is beauty as far as this old dimwit is concerned. I'll never understand the people who want to color coordinate their rod and reel,and they will never understand me.
As to the Daiwa reel,would this be it?
http://www.daiwa.com/us/service/manuals/image/baitcasting/PR1-2BI_5BI.pdf
Mike's reels has some info-
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/daiwa-pr1-5bi2c-pr1-2bi/
Worked all afternoon on 5500c3,just about done. I'm soaking the second sideplate bearing ,in a minute or two I'll fish it out of the pill bottle and let it dry for a while. UPS on the job and they delivered reel butter on my doorstep. If I get a chance I'll report on it.
Also waiting on new dryer to be delivered,probably delayed due to rain..
I'm suppposed to have polished the ends of the spool axle. Yet to find one of these axles that doesn't have a dent or divot on the ends so you can't polish them. The 5500c has a hole in one end of the axle. :(
Yep, that's the exact same reel. And guess what? Fixed that dang squeak! I put a single drop of oil in each knob and it's gone. I've got it on a rod, test drove it a little with 3/16oz and 1/4oz weights. Gonna try it out first chance I get with a weightless Dinger.
On all the reels I have that have bearings in the side plates, the very ends of the spindles don't actually ride in the bearings, there's usually about 1/8" exposed outside of the bearings.
The problem is they set against the endcap that adjusts spool tension. If I could polish those areas I would have better results in adjusting the spool tension,a little less friction in those areas would give me a more "gradual tension control" and a bit of leeway there. I'm sure the difference isn't much,but every bit counts.
Finished up 5500c3 ,but it feels like something is dragging,so I'll go back into it tomorrow and find out where I screwed up. ;)
Glad to hear you got rid of the squeak. Nice to be able to toss light weights like that with a baitcaster. Someday I'll get my hands on a modern reel...
If you're wanting to polish the very tips of the spindles where they contact the shim inside the knobs, try applying Flitz to a piece of leather and just running the tip back and forth. Or, this is one area you COULD use a power tool on. Same Flitz and leather combo, but chuck the part in a drill, GENTLY, and spin it at low speed until you get the result you're looking for. I've done this with plunger type ejectors in rifles before polishing the outer diameter of the same using the vise clamp method I mentioned earlier, as well as a q-tip/flitz/drill combo for the ejector hole (toothpick or pipe cleaner if I can't fit a q-tip in there). That, plus a fresh spring, are always a sure fix for sticky ejectors. I've also done it with sticky revolver chambers, using a bore mop coated in flitz.
If you use that method, do NOT apply pressure and DO keep the speed low.
I was reupholstering a leather chair, and thankfully all I was polishing were the heads of some long and heavy duty tacks, just to make 'em look prettier. All I could find for the project with the shaft I needed had "antiqued" dome heads. I went high speed, moderate pressure, and as soon as I tilted the drill to polish more of the domed head on the first tack, that sucker bent, gouged my homemade bench strop, and the head went flying.
The spool spindle is steel, but it's also long compared to an upholstery tack so I'm sure it can get trashed pretty easily if you get careless. With that kind of length, possibly even more easily than an upholstery tack.
Steelhorse,that's a great idea ,I might just do that ,rather than doing it by hand like I have been doing. I'll try it on the 5500c3 this afternoon and see how it goes. :)
Feeling tempted by a Fenwick rod,but don't know much about them. :-\
Quote from: TWBryan on August 18, 2017, 11:08:11 AM
Feeling tempted by a Fenwick rod,but don't know much about them. :-\
I've got 4 Fenwick rods. 2 Aetos one older model and one of the new. Also I have 2 old crankbait rods.
I really like the new Aetos model. It is a much lighter rod than the previous model from what I can tell. The new Aetos rod I have is a 7' medium with a fast tip and is a sensitive rod in my opinion. The older Aetos is a good rod it's a MH Moderate rod and it fishes great. It's what they suggested for spinnerbaits. I was just learning back then about all the new 100 rod selection stuff. But it actually fishes spinnerbaits quite well. In all fairness I did tell them I was needing a "universal" rod that I would be using a lot of spinnerbaits on as I was just buying one rod back then. I'm just spoiled to lighter rods now days so it doesn't see a lot of use.
The two crankbait rods I have are great for light cranks a 1.5 square bill is about perfect but I don't like heavier baits on them although they will work just get to much whip. I have had these a long time and caught 6+ lb bass with no problem. So durability is great.
In all fairness I'd take some of the new Aetos rods in a heartbeat if they were at a awesome price. But since coming to UB I have found the Dobyns store to have some exceptionally good deals and the rods I have purchased are doing great. So by buying from Dobyns I support the forum, get great deals and If needed Ive seen Gary himself help here in the forums.
So it's just a win all around for me to use Dobyns as long as I can find the rods I need at a comperable price. And that has been no problem with the mislabeled rods, discontinued rods, and rep samples. Not to mention the numerous product lines for each budget.
Hope this helps with the temptation. ~roflmao
Steve tx,I love this environment of enablers here. ;) The one I'm looking at is a fenwick hmg casting rod,6' medium heavy,fast action. It's probably one of their cheaper models. I like the looks of the Dobyns rods,but they are outside my budget. :)
Steelhorse,had a second so I pulled old 5000 out,took it apart and took some pictures. I found the wrong drag washers were in place,so I changed them. Cut an old one down to fit. Noticed the brake blocks were missing,so I put a couple in. I still think it's missing a drag washer and maybe a spacer washer.
Got the axle ends on the 5500c3 and 4600c3 polished. Did the best I could anyway. Now I'm out of reels to work on. Probably paw through the old reels box and find something to work on...
What's the foot number on it?
And I'm going to have to see how cheaply I can put clothes and shoes on these kids before anything else. Losing all my overtime hurt more than I expected.
Steelhorse, foot# is 334715. I can certainly hang on to it until you get some money. :). Of course if I get bored I might start working on the darn thing. ;)