Curing Jigs with Fiber Guards

Started by tmiller2, March 24, 2015, 01:59:19 PM

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tmiller2

Im sure it is on here somewhere, but I cant seem to find it.

I just came upon a great deal on some 1oz and 3/4oz jig heads.  I already had a toaster and heat gun. I got a jar of powder paint, and the plastic sleeves to protect the fiber guard when heating before painting.

I guess my question is can I use that same plastic sleeve when I am baking the jig to cure the paint without it damaging the weed guard?

If not what to you recomend? 

This is not going to be a huge production, just a here and there type of thing, but with how rocky the lakes in Maine are its tough to swing $4-5 on a jig.  Let me know your thoughts.
"the vibrashock?.....its like crack for fish"

Tavery5

Quote from: tmiller2 on March 24, 2015, 01:59:19 PM
Im sure it is on here somewhere, but I cant seem to find it.

I just came upon a great deal on some 1oz and 3/4oz jig heads.  I already had a toaster and heat gun. I got a jar of powder paint, and the plastic sleeves to protect the fiber guard when heating before painting.

I guess my question is can I use that same plastic sleeve when I am baking the jig to cure the paint without it damaging the weed guard?

If not what to you recomend? 

This is not going to be a huge production, just a here and there type of thing, but with how rocky the lakes in Maine are its tough to swing $4-5 on a jig.  Let me know your thoughts.


The heat resistant sleeves don't work very well for curing powder paint in the oven.  The guards will still deform due to the higher heat.

One thing you can do, take a pair of pliers and pull the weed guard out of the unpainted jig head.  They usually come out fairly easily.   Use either an aluminum base pin, or better yet get the Teflon pins and powder coat your jig.  Place them in the oven with the guide pin installed and cure to mfg. specs.  If you use the aluminum pin, be sure to twist the pin while the pait is still warm or it will chip the paint around the weed guard hole if you remove it after the paint has fully cured.  If you use the Teflon pins it is a no brainer, just pull the pin when the paint cures, they come right out.
Once you have this done, glue/epoxy  in a new weed guard.

tmiller2

Would vinyl paint be a better option?

i have used nail polish before but it chips too easily and in Maine exposed lead is illegal it has to be painted. 

Wardens do stop boats to check.
"the vibrashock?.....its like crack for fish"

Tavery5

Quote from: tmiller2 on March 24, 2015, 03:15:46 PM
Would vinyl paint be a better option?

i have used nail polish before but it chips too easily and in Maine exposed lead is illegal it has to be painted. 

Wardens do stop boats to check.

Never tried the Vinyl paint.  Good luck.

Lee Smith

I just wrap mine in tinfoil, works good, haven't had any issues  :-*
Builder of Custom Personal Bassin' Rods

bigjim5589

Those I've tried with the weed guards in place, always ended with the guards all deformed. So, now I use the method Tavery5 outlined & epoxy them in place after the paint is cured.

I've also tried the aluminum foil method as Lee has said, and that can work too. I've just had better results with epoxying them afterwards. I think it may be the oven we use, as some are probably better than others for curing the paint & controlling the heat.

I've used vinyl paint on some saltwater jigs, and it's fine, but is not as durable as powder paint, especially where there's rocky bottoms. However, it is easier to work with as far as not having to heat cure it.

Tmiller2, you might want to give wire guards a try instead of the plastic fiber. A single or double strand molded into the jighead works well on rocky bottoms. Then the painting is a none issue as the wire withstands the heat just fine. You said you found a deal on the jigs, but there are folks who sell the heads with the wire guards too.
Fanatical Fly Tyer & Tackle Maker!  It's An OBSESSION!!  J. Hester Fly & Tackle Co. LLC.