Using Fluorocarbon only on casting reels

[Down4ttown]

I use 50# minimum flipping, and with your hook sets, I'd stay with that in wood, 65# in grass. I know when your fishing that thick grass, no way you or the fish can define the braid

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No leader? At what point of visibility would you abandon straight braid? 1-3ft of visibility is what we stay at around these parts.


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[Lee Smith]

I don't trust them, and rarely use them, only when there is nothing in the area that the fish can get too. At Pickwick I 30# braid with 5 or 6 foot visibility, 50# in the grass. 

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[Lee Smith]

The only time I use a leader is on ledges that are clean. I may miss some bites, but when bit, I get them in without worries

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[cojab]

I don't think I would mind braid on crankbaits. I think the visibilty thing might be a bit overstated most of the time.
My only issue is I'm looking to get them deep and the floro should help with that.

[Lee Smith]

I don't think I would mind braid on crankbaits. I think the visibilty thing might be a bit overstated most of the time.
My only issue is I'm looking to get them deep and the floro should help with that.

I agree the fluorocarbon sinks, try 20# braid, it's so thin, almost no resistance, I have tried fluorocarbon on 10XD's and the braid got down very close to the same.  After I lost one, I tied one on braid and was hitting bottom at 22' with the braid.

[BassTrap316]

I've broke off too many leaders to have confidence in them. I just don't like the extra weak point in my line.

I have been throwing invizx. It is pretty manageable. Now if I can throw straight braid, I would. But some locations that just isn't an option.

I've had mixed feelings about a leader to be honest. I'm not 100% convinced the fish even care that much. I personally won't loose sleep about not using a leader in clear water, my dad on the other hand won't throw braid without it, even throwing a spinnerbait or similar reaction bait. I use an Alberto knot to connect my main line and leader though. While I'm not convinced the leader is crucial, if their a chance it helps I'll throw one on. I have had some instances of breaking a leader, but with the Alberto knot, I break very very few knots. I've had plenty of occerances where I've broken my leader halfway down before the knot broke. I have great confidence in this knot. I originally started using it as a connection knot with tough pulling salt water fish and it has held up excellently!

Oh, and btw, I never throw a leader if the water isn't clear. If I'm fishing weeds, I don't throw one either.

[bobsquatch13]

I fished very very little in 2016 due to medical problems, which will severely limit my fishing this year too. For a number of prior years now have fished the Calif. Delta tidal waters 95 % of the time which tends to be shallow water and murky, full of heavy weeds and tulle's. I use 7' 6" spinning outfits with Daiwa 2508 reels and use exclusively 14# and 16# Sniper flourocarbon. The Delta fishing is awesome and have a fair number of 10# fish up to my largest Delta fish of 14.9#, all on flourocarbon line, majority caught with 5" Senkos. I have been very lucky as every year since 2007 I have fished the Ca. Delta have caught 1 or more 10# plus fish, I fish more for numbers than size but like I said the Delta has "big" fish in it. I use only Palomar knots and don't recall losing a fish yet due to break off's - other than when I knew line was frayed and too lazy to retie - Delta waters really a person should retie quite frequently. I do use just one casting 7' Dobyns rod with Daiwa Zillion TWS reel and 14# flourocarbon with no problem at all, throwing topwaters, all cranks, spinnerbaits, buzzbaits....everything else I use spinning outfits only. I have tried a number of different braids and for me I just don't like the feel using braid and have always gone back to all flourocarbon within a trip or two trying braid. My spinning rods are 7' 6" Dobyns Extreme's and my main heavy duty spinning rod when required due to really heavy tulle/weeds I am fishing is custom made phenomenal Lee Smith 7' 6" rod. Absolutely beautiful job he did on it too!

[Kris]

For the first time in my life I will be using fluorocarbon line on most below surface presentations.  I use different backing line on most reels to use more expensive lines starting this year also.  Most BC reels will have Vicious Fluorocarbon in 8, 15 or 17 lb.  I am using a new to me line on my flipping stick, Spiderwire Stealth in green, 50 lb test.  Leader will be Trilene Big Game Mono, 30 lb, green.
I am also planning on going to P-line Halo in 6 or 8 lb on my spinning tackle this year.  What I have heard about this line is simply amazing.

[Capt. BassinLou]

For the first time in my life I will be using fluorocarbon line on most below surface presentations.  I use different backing line on most reels to use more expensive lines starting this year also.  Most BC reels will have Vicious Fluorocarbon in 8, 15 or 17 lb.  I am using a new to me line on my flipping stick, Spiderwire Stealth in green, 50 lb test.  Leader will be Trilene Big Game Mono, 30 lb, green.
I am also planning on going to P-line Halo in 6 or 8 lb on my spinning tackle this year.  What I have heard about this line is simply amazing.

Hope this change works out for you. Check in when you have had some time under your belt with the new line and let us know how its working out for you.

[Dam0007]

This whole discussion is 2 fold. Weekend warrior vs tournament guy.

As a tournament guy plus being OCD and enjoy nice things. I use 3 types of Fluoro in several tests.

5# Hair Jigs, drop shot     Usually Sniper
7# drop shot    Usually Sniper
8# jerkbaits, crank baits.    Assassin and Sniper
10# crankbaits.   Sniper
12# Jigs, Texas Rigs.    Sniper
14/15# Jigs, Texas Rigs.    Assassin and Sniper
16# Carolina Rigs, Football Jigs.    Shooter

Why? Because it sinks and almost completely eliminates the bowing of the line. I want a straight line from tip to bait. Now I do use Braid > Fluoro on a couple of set ups.

Shaky Head Braid 15# SX1 > 7# Sniper This is a must for me because I fish shaky head anywhere from 6" to 40ft deep and it's a technique where I SET the hook. Where as Drop shot is more a lift and reel into them.

Paddle Tails 15-20# SX1 > 8 or 10# Sniper if I'm using spinning gear

Straight Braid I use on a few set ups

Frogs 50+# FX2
Flipping and punching  50+# FX2 (everyone has their own definition of flipping)
A Rig/swimbait rod 60# FX2 (This is a novelty I don't use either in tournaments)

The only time mono comes into play for me is anything I want to stay high in the water column

Popper/Walking Baits 12-14# Super Natural
Spinner/Buzz/Chatter Baits 15-17# Armilo
Squarebills 14# Super Natural

Am I forgetting something??? Lmao

All jokes aside when I practice for a tournament I get a good idea if I'm gonna go light or heavy with line and spool accordingly. I always try to get away with the lightest line possible. Thats a long story for another post as to why.

Now if I was just fishing for fun I'd prob just do everything Braid for cost purposes. Competitive fishing you want every added benefit you can get, and IMO FC has too many benefits not to pass up. Lower stretch depending on brand and it sinks, it's a harder material than mono so it's also more sensitive. I'm also more confident in my knots with FC.

Hope at least a ounce of this info helps someone out there. Lol

[SFL BassHunter]

This whole discussion is 2 fold. Weekend warrior vs tournament guy.

Now if I was just fishing for fun I'd prob just do everything Braid for cost purposes. Competitive fishing you want every added benefit you can get, and IMO FC has too many benefits not to pass up. Lower stretch depending on brand and it sinks, it's a harder material than mono so it's also more sensitive. I'm also more confident in my knots with FC.

Hope at least a ounce of this info helps someone out there. Lol

I kind of disagree with this to some extent. As a weekend warrior I still have the same desire to catch fish, and catch bigger fish even though there is no monetary reward for doing so. Though my limitation is how many rods and reels I carry. So it's a little more difficult for me to use so many different types of line.
But because I am limited not just on the boat but also on the bank I carry an extra spool on one of my reels. This way I can switch around depending on what I need. My search for the right lines hasn't been easy. Compromising is a requirement for me, but if I could do what you do , even as a weekend warrior I would.

[Dam0007]

I kind of disagree with this to some extent. As a weekend warrior I still have the same desire to catch fish, and catch bigger fish even though there is no monetary reward for doing so. Though my limitation is how many rods and reels I carry. So it's a little more difficult for me to use so many different types of line.
But because I am limited not just on the boat but also on the bank I carry an extra spool on one of my reels. This way I can switch around depending on what I need. My search for the right lines hasn't been easy. Compromising is a requirement for me, but if I could do what you do , even as a weekend warrior I would.

I was speaking for me, from my point of view, about myself. Not picking out others who fun fish vs me the tourney guy. Lol if it came across like I'm talking down on guys who fun fish that was NOT the intention. Hence why I gave all my FC reasons in the tourney realm then switched stance and said I'd just do Braid if I only fished for fun.

*EDIT* to what you said I agree with you 100%, same scenario with me before I got into tournament fishing.

[Mike Bush]

Straight FC on all baitcasters aside from frogs or weed/slop work.

I dont do the braided mainline to FC leader. I can cast FC farther than braid and the qualities of FC are superior to braid. The only thing I like in braid is its ability to cut through grass and immediate connection on a topwater presentation at distance.

I have somewhere around 25 setups that are in the boat, so each one is tailored to techniques they are intended for.

Now, if I was to cut everything down to 6 rods and I only fished from the bank. Everything would stay the same, other than I would have far less in the options I have now. I still would go with FC on any bottom contact application due to the fact that if I hung up I wouldnt want to cut a bunch of line off and leave it in the water. You can break off FC and only lose the lure itself and not line.

[Silas]

There is really no such thing as clear water in the bayous I fish so visibility is a non issue.

  I wanted to see what you boys were talking about so bought some rolls of FC to just try. Used the expensive stuff. 
  Found out ( for myself) if I kink it, I just as well take it off. Not so with mono.
Memory is always there. Some lines more, some less.  Monos I use are lower in ALL cases.

  Have to be extra careful always with knots with FC.

Then tried about 6 brands of expensive braid. Cast well. I tend to like the lower strength 20-30# braid. Like yellow in the bayous. I can see where line is easily.  No difference in fish caught.

  Then I thought , upon seeing others do it----like I'm not intelligent enough to make up my own mind?   Looked at utubes and learned some nice knots. Very small ones. Even used FC LEADER material.

   Only difference  was the knot going thru the guides. I say you guys are kidding yourselves if you say you don't even notice it. I don't care how little the knot is, there is that little added friction that I hate.

    here in the bayous, a good Copolymer will be trouble free most often.
And so cheap, when compared to both braid and FC, as to allow me to change to fresh lines each season. Sometimes I'll change it to a different poundage or brand just to experiment.

     I don't fish 20-40 feet deep, or clear water. Don't worry about sink rate or visibility issues.
And happy I don't have the impediments of having to fish in the middle of a 50 foot hump in gin clear water. Jeez!

Now experimenting with Armillo Defier in 11#. So far very good. If they would make an 8# test that would be great. 11 is fine.