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Lithium vs AGM

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oldgas

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Anyone have any latest dope regarding Lithium vs AGM batteries?


coldfront

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cost a lot more.  last a lot longer?

Bud Kennedy

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One thing to consider is the warranty provisions for your outboard motor.  Some manufactures say using lithium as a starting battery will void your warranty.  In particular this would be Yamaha motors.  Not sure about the others but it is worth checking out prior to buying if you are going to have the battery connected to your motor.   Not sure this is true today but it was last summer.

oldgas

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Great point about motor warrantee.  I do know the new Merc V-8 says to use AGM.

The warrantee on the Lith batteries "might/could" out weigh the extra cost....maybe.
 But the weight savings is of high interest.
 BUT, what about the Lith batteries falling on their face  while on the water?   Anyone heard anything about this? 

FD

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I just put 4 AGM's in my boat this year but had looked seriously at Lithium.

Running the numbers...

I would have saved 175 ish pounds which would have been great.

Cost per cycle was about the same.

The frequency of changing them would have been 1/3 which with my battery compartment mess was also appealing.

The charging was my major hurdle.  I could not find a 4 bank charger with the proper algorithm for lithium and most say unless you use their charger, the warranty was void.

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BarryFL

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FD, what about AGM for cranking and lithium for TM and electronics?

I'm considering going to a 24V TM with 2 60ah lithiums, a 100ah lithium for electronics and keep AGM31 with 1100 MCA for cranking and accessories.

My boat came with 36V TM because that's how MLF set it up, but it's really overkill on a Z18. I can almost get on plane with it set to 10.  I want one with spot lock, anyway. Maybe the new MG Tour Pro.



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geneinnc

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Great point about motor warrantee.  I do know the new Merc V-8 says to use AGM.

The warrantee on the Lith batteries "might/could" out weigh the extra cost....maybe.
 But the weight savings is of high interest.
 BUT, what about the Lith batteries falling on their face  while on the water?   Anyone heard anything about this?
I saw it first hand on all of the Great Lakes MLF events last year. They were in rough water for sure and probably needed as much power as possible using spot lock to video game fish smallmouth schools. Flat on their face is exactly what they did. I'll keep on chugging with my gaggle  of Interstate batteries until things are perfected.

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FD

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FD, what about AGM for cranking and lithium for TM and electronics?

I'm considering going to a 24V TM with 2 60ah lithiums, a 100ah lithium for electronics and keep AGM31 with 1100 MCA for cranking and accessories.

My boat came with 36V TM because that's how MLF set it up, but it's really overkill on a Z18. I can almost get on plane with it set to 10.  I want one with spot lock, anyway. Maybe the new MG Tour Pro.



~Barry~
You don't want to put electronics on the same circuit as the TM. 

I've had no issue running 2-H12's and a H-10, radio, lights and still cranking that power hungry Opti Beast on my group 31 AGM cranking battery.  I did move my Talons to the TM side and I permanently mounted a power bubbles unit tied into the TM side.

I did find a 2 bank Li charger but that still puts 2 chargers  on board unless your just going to alligator clip your Li chargers every time.

Since you're going to lose 80 lbs anyway  by dropping your TM to 24v, I'd stick with AGM'S this go round.  That will give the Li industry another 4 years to perfect their products and with the push for car makers to build more electrics, the cost will come way down.

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Grout-scout

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I know this post is a few months old, but in case someone else is on the fence. Definitely go with a 100amp lithium if you’re running multiple graphs. My 122 ultra, gls10, lowrance hds12 and another lowrance hds12 in standby, wiped out my 50 ah lithium in 7 hours.

geneinnc

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I just sent an email to Tohatsu to see if they have any restrictions. I'll let everyone know the reply.

I'm really close to going with Interstate again for a couple of reasons.

The dealer I use checks batteries when doing work and tell the owners when their battery is over 5 years old and in the same breath tells them I doubt you need a battery. If he takes in an Interstate core he charges them puts them on a battery tender. They use them around the shop and says they last forever when trying to kill them.

I left a bilge pump on by accident for over 24 hours and still had power to the gages. I charged my Interstate up and stopped by the garage to get it tested. The service tech said it tested just fine,  800 cca. I didn't have my glasses so I asked him what was the date on the starter battery. He did a double take and said I need to test it again. It was sold in 2008. He said it was very rare they got a bad Interstate in. He said sir I would love to sell you the blue top Optima we've been talking about but I would at least try it on the water if you have a jumper pack. I did Tuesady and when I checked it when I was done it had dropped from 12.6 to 12.1.

Keep in mind 4 stroke alternators  charge at 14 volts so that helps.

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