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Shortening a rod handle

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The Rooster

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Anybody ever saw off 3 inches of rod handle on the butt end and then put a cap on it with some weights to rebalance it? Iím thinking this is the best thing for me to do to get the rod I want for jerkbaits and topwaters and have a short enough handle on the back side to keep it out of my mid section as Iím working the bait. I can order a balancing kit from Mudhole for $10.

Iím thinking a St. Croix Premier spinning rod in a 6í length, cause I fish from a really small boat and sometimes the shoreline also, so I want one that wonít touch water or ground when Iím jerking the lure with the tip down. The handle is still too long though. Taking about 2-3 inches off would be ideal. I already know the reel I would want balances pretty well on the 6í6Ē version, and might be a touch heavy on the 6í0Ē rod. Taking a little off would help with that but then it also might just mess it up but good, too! A balance kit might be just the thing then, right?

Would I need to do any sort of epoxy on the rod after I cut it to preserve the graphite fibers from splintering inside? I have a very fine tooth Japanese pull saw for woodworking that I would use to cut it. It leaves an extremely smooth cut in wood.
Last Edit: May 01, 2021, 06:20:35 AM by The Rooster


FD

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Yoi would be better off cutting it with an abrasive blade on a side grinder.  That's how I adjust the length on a blank before I build it.

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The Rooster

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Yoi would be better off cutting it with an abrasive blade on a side grinder.  That's how I adjust the length on a blank before I build it.

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I have an angle grinder with 4Ē cutting discs. I guess that would work?

FD

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Yoi would be better off cutting it with an abrasive blade on a side grinder.  That's how I adjust the length on a blank before I build it.

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I have an angle grinder with 4Ē cutting discs. I guess that would work?
up. Exactly what I use.  Make sure to use eye protection cause it will spit chunks at you if you are not careful.

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WTodd

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I cut about 2Ē off of one but didnít do any balancing. Now you have me thinking about it. I used a hacksaw and it worked fine.


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The Rooster

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I cut about 2Ē off of one but didnít do any balancing. Now you have me thinking about it. I used a hacksaw and it worked fine.


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What did you use to cap it?

FD

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If it's a cork handle get one of these.  You will have to shave down a tenon for the cap to fit over, but that's easy enough with a Razor knife and some sand paper.  You can use any wood glue with cork to put it on.  You want it snug but not tight when you dry fit it.  When you glue it, spin it on, wipe the excess glue off with a wet paper towel, and stand it in the corner overnight.

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WTodd

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I cut about 2Ē off of one but didnít do any balancing. Now you have me thinking about it. I used a hacksaw and it worked fine.


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What did you use to cap it?
I actually used the original ďplugĒ. I carefully removed the glue, cork & blank and re-glued inside the handle; so far so good.


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WTodd

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Ok this is the after pic; perfect no but works fine


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The Rooster

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If it's a cork handle get one of these.  You will have to shave down a tenon for the cap to fit over, but that's easy enough with a Razor knife and some sand paper.  You can use any wood glue with cork to put it on.  You want it snug but not tight when you dry fit it.  When you glue it, spin it on, wipe the excess glue off with a wet paper towel, and stand it in the corner overnight.

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Iím loving this! Thank you! Had no idea I could buy this. Iím a woodworker so I have outdoor waterproof Titebond III glue here already.

I checked out their site and thereís different styles available, which I like. I guess the key for me would be shorten the handle, shave the butt to accept the cap I choose, then find some weight to balance it that will fit inside the end of the blank where I cut it, epoxy it in place and then glue the cap on. Sound like a plan?

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You might not need to balance the rod out at all, as the techniques you are using it for are tip down techniques. Try using the rod a few times before you add any weight.
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FD

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If it's a cork handle get one of these.  You will have to shave down a tenon for the cap to fit over, but that's easy enough with a Razor knife and some sand paper.  You can use any wood glue with cork to put it on.  You want it snug but not tight when you dry fit it.  When you glue it, spin it on, wipe the excess glue off with a wet paper towel, and stand it in the corner overnight.

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Iím loving this! Thank you! Had no idea I could buy this. Iím a woodworker so I have outdoor waterproof Titebond III glue here already.

I checked out their site and thereís different styles available, which I like. I guess the key for me would be shorten the handle, shave the butt to accept the cap I choose, then find some weight to balance it that will fit inside the end of the blank where I cut it, epoxy it in place and then glue the cap on. Sound like a plan?
Yep.

I sometimes I have to balance a short handle set on a long rod for a client.  I will epoxy a 1/2 - 3/4 tungsten bullet weight into the butt of the blank.  I also do this on all flippin sticks.  It can make a 1-3/4 flippin weight feel like 1/2 oz, particularly when you are flipping it all day long.. saves a lot of wear and tear on the forearm.

You will need to do that first and put some masking tape over the end.  When you shove epoxy and a bullet into the blank the slightly increased air pressure inside the blank is going to try to push it back out.  When that epoxy cures install your cap.

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The Rooster

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You might not need to balance the rod out at all, as the techniques you are using it for are tip down techniques. Try using the rod a few times before you add any weight.

Hmm. You just gave me an idea. I have a rod thatís very balanced now with the Pflueger reel thatís on it, and Iím currently not using it. I wanted to get another Daiwa reel for it to replace the Pflueger, so I tried one of my other Daiwas that I have now on it. The Daiwa reel is over an ounce lighter than the Pflueger and the rod tip was way heavy with it on there. At first I just figured the rod was mismatched, but now I might just try that and see how it goes with jerkbaits.

The handle is still kind of long, so I might have to cut it, but it seems Iíve just learned what Iíd need to do to correct that.

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I didn't see this til now but I'd have probably practiced on a cheaper rod then a Premier!!

Glad it worked out for you. I would think that with with weight kit you'll be able to +/- it just enough. You also mentioned having epoxy so if she feels "nose light" could dab a little on near the tip to balance it back.

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The Rooster

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I didn't see this til now but I'd have probably practiced on a cheaper rod then a Premier!!

Glad it worked out for you. I would think that with with weight kit you'll be able to +/- it just enough. You also mentioned having epoxy so if she feels "nose light" could dab a little on near the tip to balance it back.

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I actually havenít done it yet, but I ainít skeered! LOL!

Right now Iím just gathering information. I have a 6í6Ē ML/F Premier that I use for light crankbaits and it feels fine as I hold it. Handle not too long or in the way. I played around with it to see if I thought it would be ok for jerkbaits and it felt like it might be. I noticed the reel sets back farther on it than it does my Mojo rod. I also noticed while looking at rod charts on their site that the 6í0Ē handle length is supposed to be even shorter than the same rods in 6í6Ē, so a 6í0Ē Premier M/F might be fine as it is with no modification at all.

fishballer06

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Instead of cutting the rod and ruining any potential retail value, why not just put a Cush-It on the bottom and put a few quarters inside to weight it down?
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