when some one says "it's a 3 m/h" or a "4 m/h"

[Triple D]

What does this mean and how can you tell? When i look at rods i don't see any thing about this. Sorry if this is basic knowledge.     And thanks for any and all responses.

[-Shawn-]

Basically the Top of the line Rod manufactures Split the MH into 6 Powers, 1 ML 2 M, 3MH,4MH, 5H, 6XH.   

The 3MH and 4MH are more for you to be able to tune your rod to your specific purpose.

The 3MH is Generally going to be for Weightless plastics, Flukes, 1/4 jigs and light TX rigs.
The 4MH is going to be standard TX rigs , 3/8 and 1/2 oz jigs and the like.

[Pferox]

The M,MH and H designates the "Power" or backbone of the rod, the amount of pressure it takes to bend usually the bottom 2/3 or so of the rod blank, maybe better to say stiffness. A "Parabolic" rod usually bends evenly along the whole length of the rod. Then there is the tip action, Fast, Slow, Ultra Fast, etc usually talks about how quickly the tip will bend before the rest of the blank does.

Some rods' power is stated numerically instead of with letters, which is where the 3 will equal a M rod, 4 a M/H and so on. Numerically rated rods usually show the power rating in the model number. So you won't actually see the M/H on the bottom underside of the rod. Because most people are familiar with the letter rating system, rod companies will list that in the advertising literature about a rod so we can relate to what the power number is.

Some rods will add the line and or lure rating, so for example you will have a M/H 12 to 30lb or a M/H 15 to 50 (some look like tree trunks), and so on, 1/8 to 3/8, etc. And still others just rate the rod by just the line rating. Many of the newer rods have a higher line rating on them than I am used to seeing because the use of braids is becoming more prevalent.

In the beginning its kind of confusing, but as you go along, you will begin to be able to relate all this stuff together in general.

As an example, a rod usually max rated for 15 or 17 lb test is usually a M rod and will cast lighter lures, one that is max rated for 20 or 30lb test is usually a MH rod will usually cast 3/8 up to 1 oz or so, 40 or 50lb is usually a H rod and it will cast up to 3 or 4ozs. You can relate light and ultra light rods the same way, but I'm not familiar enough with them to give generalities.

I hope I explained it right, I know whats going on, its just difficult to put into words, maybe somebody else can explain it a little more concisely.

[duke13372]

The bottom line it's just a general term that an angler can use to identify a rod and it's uses.  Gary Loomis had a system where the first two numbers designed the length and the last number designated the power of the rod.  A 783 was a 6 foot 6 inch, 3 power.  The 844 was a 7 footer in a 4 power.  Other manufacturers use letters to designate the power thus m (medium), H (heavy) and so forth.  Then you combine the action designations which will probably be moderate, fast, extra fast.  Again all these terms may used differently from company to company.  I've picked up several Airrus rods that might be listed moderate but I personally feel different.  So consider the terms as general and a place to start.  Until you test the rod you won't know for sure.  We have many on here that will post that a rod will be a stronger power than listed.

[Pferox]

I like the "presentation specific designation", everybody uses a different rod for a presentation, it is the place of many different discussions, on this site. Yet some manufacturers label their rods this way.

As Duke said, get a feel of the rod, and decide whether or not it will fit your need, just use the label, what ever it is as a general guide.

[Wackumandstackum]

Biggest problem regarding power with the lettering system (M, MH, H, XH) is that they are not very consistent amongst manufacturers and it can be misleading depending on the task. For example, a MH 7'6 flipping stick will likely have a ton more mower than a standard MH 7' casting rod. The numbering system (2,3,4,5) is much better but there are still problems between manufacturers and it is not nearly as precise (there is a big difference between a 3 and a 4 power and there are a ton of rods in between).

The problem with the action system (Slow, Mod, Fast, X-Fast) is the same as above as it is not nearly as precise and it may differ a little between each manufacturer and or task.

For example, two of the blanks I use a lot are both classified as 3 power rods with a fast tip (SB843 vs MB843). However, one of the blanks is considered a spinning blank and the other is a Mag Bass. The difference is that the spinning blank has a much faster tip and a bit less power but each are classified as the same. This can make things very confusing when someone ask for a MH rod with a Fast tip as the options are endless and each rod will likely be different. This is where task specific rods come into play.

The only way to eliminate these issues if for everyone to agree on a system that measures the true power and action of a giving rod. The custom builders come up with a system that is nearly perfect but getting everyone on the same page is very unlikely. On the plus side, if looking for a rod to match old faithful, you can put old faithful on a rod board and find a blank or rod that closely matches the actual power and action.

If anyone wants to learn a little more about this CCS system please go to the following link....


Scott

[duke13372]

I honestly don't think there can be a system across the board due to the difference in materials and manufacturing processes.  I think as you use a company's product you get a feel for the way they label their rods.  Their labeling will correspond to how their product reacts to a load.  Again this can be influenced by the materials and processes.  You could label a fiberglass product different to a graphite product as an example.  Something else to think about; perhaps there are more broken rods now due to manufacturers trying to make a material do something it's not capable of.  You make them sensitive and light weight but perhaps durability is a trade off.  Food for thought.

[Pferox]

I agree that there has been a great trade off in durability to get sensitivity.

I have some older carbon fiber rods that are almost as durable as many glass rods.

I am beginning to wonder if sensitivity is starting to get to the point as Dolby noise reduction has become. The human can only sense so much, after a certain point,  "improvements" are noticed by machines, not humans.