Using Fluorocarbon only on casting reels

[bucketmouth 87]

Am I crazy or does anyone else use Fluorocarbon only on their reels.  I always use mono as backing only to fill the spool and reduce the amount of of Fluo needed.  All i keep reading is people using braid with a fluo leader.  I just purchased an new Dobyns 734 C with a Chronarch ci4 and was looking to see what others think about line.  I know a lot of it depends on water conditions on what influences you.  The problem is i fish 2 private quarries with Gin clear water and then a couple of lakes that are like chocolate milk. What do you guys recommend for uses with Fluo only, braid with Fluo??  This will be for bottom contact baits...jigs/texas rigs.

[zippyduck]

How deep are you fishing?
more than 20 feet and I would use braid with flouro leader.
Less and I would go straight flouro.
if you need to make long casts use the braid.

[earldogg]

One of the best qualities of flouro is it's sensitivity on slack line, that's why I prefer straight flouro in deep water. Gl

[SFL BassHunter]

I love the Dobyns 734!

I am going straight fluoro on my Type R. I prefer that over a leader. I think I put YZ as backing cause I have so much of it and it's cheap. I wouldn't put braid as backing just cause the braid will bleed green onto your fluoro making the invisibility of it null. I have braid backing on one of my reels and sunline mono as the line, my mono has a slight green hue now close to the braid.

My understanding is that the braid backing will help make casts further. I cast just fine with the YZ/InvisX combo.

[BassTrap316]

Okay, so here's my thoughts on Flouro verses braid as a main line.

Benefits of Fluoro = Sensitivity low stretch.
Benefits of Briad = More sensitive, no stretch.

Con to Fluoro = High memory and poor handling (when compared to most mono and braid)
Pro of Bbaid = No memory and thin diameter and easy handling for longer casts

Pro to Fluoro = Invisibility
Con the Braid = Visibility
Braid with Fluoro leader = Visibility problem solved.

Of course this is not an exhaustive list, and does not take into consideration ALL of the possible pros/cons and comparisons that could be made with the two line types.   

My biggest overall grip with Fluorocarbon as a main line is how easily it breaks. When I get a back lash and get a kink 20 yards down into my spool, it never fails that I end up snapping the line off in that spot with the kink either on a hook set, or on a snag. So consequently, my 15 pound fluorocarbon becomes 4 pound fluorocarbon. This has been my experience with all the fluorocarbon lines I've fished. That's anywhere from the cheap-o brands to the reputable brands like Seagar Invi"woops" and AbrazX, Sufix and Trilene.

The only thing I would consider throwing pure fluorocarbon with is cranbaits. The sink rate and stretch are crucial IMO.

So for your bottom hoppers, I think you're best bet for feeling the most bites, and getting the most fish to the boat, and the most solid hook sets is going to be braid. If you're worried about visibility, tie on a leader. I do this this 100% percent of the time fishing braid in clear water. The only annoying part is having to retie my leader a few times during the day to keep it long enough, but it's a small price to pay for the benefits.

[Oldfart9999]

I use flouro for cranks and spinnerbaits, it sinks so you don't get the big sag like mono and the bait will get a bit deeper. For me the biggest problem is when it stretches it bounce back like mono so you'll need to retie more often, be sure your knots are correct and moist when you tighten it down. I use BPS XPS for deep cranks and Vanish for most everything else.
Use a line conditioner like KVD's and the new BPS, I've found reel magic tends to gum up.
Rodney

[Capt. BassinLou]

This particular topic will always remain a hot topic, based on every ones individual experiences. I know I for one have read into these threads and several responses convinced me that FC was going to make the difference. Over the years, my relationship with FC has always been strained let's say. BassTrap listed several good reasons why FC is a pita to deal with. I recently went back to FC and this time around I kept it on for less than a month. For this time around I used a popular $$ FC that several members love on their outfits. Unfortunately for me, that's was not the case. Copoly lines are a better fit for me. I know the "invincibility" is an alluring characteristic these lines possess, however my experiences thus far has shown me that the their is no significant advantage fishing with FC. I have experienced more of the "cons" with this line than the "pro's".  My main line will continue to be braid, I stopped using leaders about 2 seasons ago, and I keep one outfit spooled with Copoly when the situation calls for it.

[cortman]

I use 20 lb. Tatsu fluoro on my jig/t-rig rod. Love it. Handles super easily, almost as easy as 15 lb. Big Game mono. Very strong, don't believe I've had a breakoff yet and I've caught multiple 5-6 lb fish on it this year.
I used InvizX for a little while and it was ok. Tatsu was like a completely different line. I understand one or more offerings from Sunline are similar.
I'll probably be sticking with it for the jig setup since I fish a slack line fairly often and am often throwing around rocks where the abrasion resistance is nice to have.
Braid+fluro leader? I use it for some other stuff, like weightless senkos, etc. But I'll probably stick to straight line for the MH jig setup- I like not worrying about a knot failing when catching big fish on big jigs and t-rigs.

[bucketmouth 87]

Awesome responses by everyone, I really appreciate them all.  Last season I used fluorocarbon only on my rigs expect for my frog/ pitching sticks.  It's awesome to hear the pros and cons you have all encountered on the water with both scenarios. Picking up casting distance and sensitivity is very tempting to get me to experiment with a leader.  I have had good luck with flurocarbon only but there is always that feeling that maybe I'm missing out on somthing.   Honestly the thought of an extra knot between me and the fish doesn't excite me and will probably continue main line flurocarbon.  I have been using seaguar red lable and have some abrazx on order.

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[bucketmouth 87]

Okay, so here's my thoughts on Flouro verses braid as a main line.

Benefits of Fluoro = Sensitivity low stretch.
Benefits of Briad = More sensitive, no stretch.

Con to Fluoro = High memory and poor handling (when compared to most mono and braid)
Pro of Bbaid = No memory and thin diameter and easy handling for longer casts

Pro to Fluoro = Invisibility
Con the Braid = Visibility
Braid with Fluoro leader = Visibility problem solved.

Of course this is not an exhaustive list, and does not take into consideration ALL of the possible pros/cons and comparisons that could be made with the two line types.   

My biggest overall grip with Fluorocarbon as a main line is how easily it breaks. When I get a back lash and get a kink 20 yards down into my spool, it never fails that I end up snapping the line off in that spot with the kink either on a hook set, or on a snag. So consequently, my 15 pound fluorocarbon becomes 4 pound fluorocarbon. This has been my experience with all the fluorocarbon lines I've fished. That's anywhere from the cheap-o brands to the reputable brands like Seagar Invi"woops" and AbrazX, Sufix and Trilene.

The only thing I would consider throwing pure fluorocarbon with is cranbaits. The sink rate and stretch are crucial IMO.

So for your bottom hoppers, I think you're best bet for feeling the most bites, and getting the most fish to the boat, and the most solid hook sets is going to be braid. If you're worried about visibility, tie on a leader. I do this this 100% percent of the time fishing braid in clear water. The only annoying part is having to retie my leader a few times during the day to keep it long enough, but it's a small price to pay for the benefits.

Great info here!!!!


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[Oldfart9999]

Flouro is not invisible in water, it's round and bends light so it becomes visible, for me the the advantage is that it sinks.
Rodney

[basss]

I'm opposite, I mainly fish braid with 1 floro reel.

[SFL BassHunter]

Okay, so here's my thoughts on Flouro verses braid as a main line.

Benefits of Fluoro = Sensitivity low stretch.
Benefits of Briad = More sensitive, no stretch.

Con to Fluoro = High memory and poor handling (when compared to most mono and braid)
Pro of Bbaid = No memory and thin diameter and easy handling for longer casts

Pro to Fluoro = Invisibility
Con the Braid = Visibility
Braid with Fluoro leader = Visibility problem solved.

Of course this is not an exhaustive list, and does not take into consideration ALL of the possible pros/cons and comparisons that could be made with the two line types.   

My biggest overall grip with Fluorocarbon as a main line is how easily it breaks. When I get a back lash and get a kink 20 yards down into my spool, it never fails that I end up snapping the line off in that spot with the kink either on a hook set, or on a snag. So consequently, my 15 pound fluorocarbon becomes 4 pound fluorocarbon. This has been my experience with all the fluorocarbon lines I've fished. That's anywhere from the cheap-o brands to the reputable brands like Seagar Invi"woops" and AbrazX, Sufix and Trilene.

The only thing I would consider throwing pure fluorocarbon with is cranbaits. The sink rate and stretch are crucial IMO.

So for your bottom hoppers, I think you're best bet for feeling the most bites, and getting the most fish to the boat, and the most solid hook sets is going to be braid. If you're worried about visibility, tie on a leader. I do this this 100% percent of the time fishing braid in clear water. The only annoying part is having to retie my leader a few times during the day to keep it long enough, but it's a small price to pay for the benefits.

I've broke off too many leaders to have confidence in them. I just don't like the extra weak point in my line.

I have been throwing invizx. It is pretty manageable. Now if I can throw straight braid, I would. But some locations that just isn't an option.

[loomisguy]

Straight flouro for anything on the bottom and most moving baits. Tatsu and Shooter are the best.
Also like sniper.. Invisx seems to have a bit more stretch along with Trilene 100%, I like those for diving baits like the wart.
It also works fine for some Topwater applications like a Buzzbait or The Whopper Plopper.
Flouro doesn't like to be kinked and you have to wet the knot and pull it tight very slowly or it will weaken.

[SFL BassHunter]

Straight flouro for anything on the bottom and most moving baits. Tatsu and Shooter are the best.
Also like sniper.. Invisx seems to have a bit more stretch along with Trilene 100%, I like those for diving baits like the wart.
It also works fine for some Topwater applications like a Buzzbait or The Whopper Plopper.
Flouro doesn't like to be kinked and you have to wet the knot and pull it tight very slowly or it will weaken.

I'll be trying shooter or sniper next. I do love the Sunline mono, hoping their Fluoro is just as good.

[Down4ttown]

I love Sunline. The Sniper and Shooter series are really exceptional.

Another reason for going straight braid or straight flouro are the guides. Leaders with knots don't flow as well through micro guided systems.


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[nats]

If you wanted to try the high end flouro,at TW thru tomorrow tatsu is $10 cheaper per spool.$29 per 200 yds compared to usual $39  and and thru tomorrow instead of just paying you can order yourself an electronic gift card which would be 10% off  then when you use that it would in essence be saving another 10%

[loomisguy]

I'll be trying shooter or sniper next. I do love the Sunline mono, hoping their Fluoro is just as good.

Rick, I think sniper is a little more manageable in the lighter weights. However I use 10lb. Shooter on my spinnerbait and finesse jig rods and it's super tough and ties a great knot.
If you do any deep jig or c rig fishing the flippin FC is also really good.
It has a green stripe for every 30 inches of clear, nice for watching your line.

[SFL BassHunter]

Cool thanks for the info.

Downtown, leader knots don't go through guides well. There is a knot out there that's supposed to be ultra thin. It just takes so darn long to tie lol


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[cojab]

I'm using braid only on my frog and flipping rigs, strait mono (Big Game) on everything else.

I am setting up a deep crankbait rod right now and I am planning on trying some floro on it. It will be all floro. No leader.
I had floro on before, (don't remember which one) but I took it off because it was just unmanagable. I hated the memory it had. I am going to try again and also try line conditioner.

[loomisguy]

For deep divers like a dd22 6xd etc. Invisx in 8 or 10lb. Is really good..
Handles great and a bit of stretch..100% in 10 is also good.

[Lee Smith]

Ok, I have a question, with all that is in the water, especially when we're fishing even a little of grass, why not braid?  I understand the thought process of the fish can see it, but with all the strands of grass etc, does it matter?  Also, does the small diameter braids, 30# and below even show up?

I wonder because most everything I fish is braid, even my cranks.  I use 30# and up on Pickwick and that sucker is as clear as it gets over here, haven't seen an issue.  Again, just wondering on some techniques that you aren't used too braid, will it work in your area? 

I'm not a fluorocarbon fan, have lost some fish that I don't think I would have using braid, but then I question, would I have gotten the bite in the first place?

[Down4ttown]

Cool thanks for the info.

Downtown, leader knots don't go through guides well. There is a knot out there that's supposed to be ultra thin. It just takes so darn long to tie lol


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I use the Alberto knot which is as small as I have seen but it still is not small enough for some.


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[Down4ttown]

Ok, I have a question, with all that is in the water, especially when we're fishing even a little of grass, why not braid?  I understand the thought process of the fish can see it, but with all the strands of grass etc, does it matter?  Also, does the small diameter braids, 30# and below even show up?

I wonder because most everything I fish is braid, even my cranks.  I use 30# and up on Pickwick and that sucker is as clear as it gets over here, haven't seen an issue.  Again, just wondering on some techniques that you aren't used too braid, will it work in your area? 

I'm not a fluorocarbon fan, have lost some fish that I don't think I would have using braid, but then I question, would I have gotten the bite in the first place?

If my friend Lee says it, then I believe it. I may run some straight braid this year and try it. Would you honestly recommend braid for flipping in a tourney?


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[Lee Smith]

I use 50# minimum flipping, and with your hook sets, I'd stay with that in wood, 65# in grass. I know when your fishing that thick grass, no way you or the fish can define the braid

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