Electrical issues.

yota2000 · October 29, 2016, 08:40:37 PM

I'm stump, factory wires looks like a bird ness. I have power to the bilge pump switch and the pump itself. Now, I know the pump works because I disconnected the wire and tested straight to the battery, pump comes on. When I reconnect it to the lead wires nothing happens with I turn the switch on. Seems like there is a short somewhere when the pump is connected to the lead from the switch. This also apply to my livewell pump and trim too. all pumps work when connect directly to battery but does not when connected to factory lead wires. I feel like ripping all the factory wires out and redoing everything because there is a lot of t-ing on the wires. At first it was intermediate but now nothing. Remember that all pumps work when directly connected to battery. Someone please help me on this. Looks like last tournament for this year wont happen.

Mike Cork · October 29, 2016, 09:10:22 PM

Until you said intermittent I was thinking maybe a fuse or breaker that all the pumps are wired through. I know on my Legend there is a master panel and it can need reset from time to time. Have to disconnect the main cranking battery, let sit for 1 minute and reconnect. But if you have standard rocker switches this won't be the case

Could be a ground issue too. Hopefully one of the ranger guys will see this and it's something that has a quick fix

Just to get through the tournament you could lay same new wires in and place a switch somewhere convenient. It would only be a couple bucks for materials

Bud Kennedy · October 29, 2016, 09:20:32 PM

On that old ranger most likely the dash switches are toggle switches. As I understand your issue you say from the fuse box to the switch you have 12VDC. From the dash switch to the device (i.e.) bilge pump you have no power? First question is . 1. have you checked the switch to see if it is operating? Measuring from the fuse box to the output of the dash switch you should still have 12 V. This would be the same for either the Bilge or livewells. The bilge switch is definitely a 3 position switch, I can't remember if the live well is three positions. If you are getting a clean 12VDC on the output of these switches then you need to start looking for a ground wire that may be broken or just corroded.

Princeton_Man · October 29, 2016, 09:33:28 PM

I must admit I don't have much Ranger knowledge but it's possible the switch operates a relay. The intermittent issue could be dirty/burnt contacts or relay operation itself.

Bigwrench · October 29, 2016, 09:34:39 PM

Quote from: Bud Kennedy on October 29, 2016, 09:20:32 PM
On that old ranger most likely the dash switches are toggle switches. As I understand your issue you say from the fuse box to the switch you have 12VDC. From the dash switch to the device (i.e.) bilge pump you have no power? First question is . 1. have you checked the switch to see if it is operating? Measuring from the fuse box to the output of the dash switch you should still have 12 V. This would be the same for either the Bilge or livewells. The bilge switch is definitely a 3 position switch, I can't remember if the live well is three positions. If you are getting a clean 12VDC on the output of these switches then you need to start looking for a ground wire that may be broken or just corroded.

My first thought as well have seen this on my old Ranger more than once. Make sure at the switch that you have power going out to the pumps when you flip it on
Does yours have the wiring diagram on the inside of the rear battery compartment lid ? I have photos of my 90 and 98 if you don't and think they will help , let me know.

yota2000 · October 29, 2016, 09:43:02 PM

Quote from: Bud Kennedy on October 29, 2016, 09:20:32 PM
On that old ranger most likely the dash switches are toggle switches. As I understand your issue you say from the fuse box to the switch you have 12VDC. From the dash switch to the device (i.e.) bilge pump you have no power? First question is . 1. have you checked the switch to see if it is operating? Measuring from the fuse box to the output of the dash switch you should still have 12 V. This would be the same for either the Bilge or livewells. The bilge switch is definitely a 3 position switch, I can't remember if the live well is three positions. If you are getting a clean 12VDC on the output of these switches then you need to start looking for a ground wire that may be broken or just corroded.

toggle switch has power and send it up to the connection only (this is the weird part about it). bilge pump works when directly connected to battery but does not when connect to toggle switch wire. it like there is no 12v at the connection even though I check it disconnected and showed 12v +. I even replace the connection with a new male/female connector still nothing. Suck, trim at bow/stern doesn't work, non of the pump works. its like someone connected all of these together. only thing that works is my navi/anchor lights because I had to redo them, motor starts and of course trolling motor works. being that its an old boat, wonder if its worth redoing the wires or just sell it as is and get a newer boat.

Bud Kennedy · October 29, 2016, 09:53:24 PM

Ranger is noted for using molex connectors as part of the wiring bundle. These can be a bit problematic over time. I am guessing both bilge pumps are not functional at this time. Running new wire to the pumps in not a big deal but it is a pain in the but getting down the wiring channels. Did you confirm that your dash switch is indeed a 3 position switch? I can go visit my boat tomorrow and photograph the wiring diagram and the write down the dash switches as I can't quite remember the switch types. The wiring for the most part is simplistic but unfortunately it is a bit of a jumbled mess when trying to sort it out. It does sound a bit like some gremlins are in there.

yota2000 · October 29, 2016, 10:07:24 PM

Quote from: Bud Kennedy on October 29, 2016, 09:53:24 PM
Ranger is noted for using molex connectors as part of the wiring bundle. These can be a bit problematic over time. I am guessing both bilge pumps are not functional at this time. Running new wire to the pumps in not a big deal but it is a pain in the but getting down the wiring channels. Did you confirm that your dash switch is indeed a 3 position switch? I can go visit my boat tomorrow and photograph the wiring diagram and the write down the dash switches as I can't quite remember the switch types. The wiring for the most part is simplistic but unfortunately it is a bit of a jumbled mess when trying to sort it out. It does sound a bit like some gremlins are in there.

it is a 3 position switch but only work when I flip it to the right, when flip to the left nothing which I think is for automatic which in this case has no use since the bilge pump does not had a float. tracking down the wires, there is another wire that is splice into it which is the trim that goes to the steering wheel. what gets me is, there is power (12v) up to the connection but when I connect the bilge wires to it, pump doesn't turn on when the switch flip is to the right (on position). Going to make some new wires and connect directly from switch to pump and see if it turns on, if it does then time to rip out the old harness lol. a photo diagram would be nice. thank you.

Oldfart9999 · October 30, 2016, 07:10:40 PM

If you can get a wiring diagram, it may be time to rewire it, new panel, maybe circuit breaker upgrades and new switches. Pricey but very long lasting.
Rodney

bigjim5589 · October 30, 2016, 07:48:26 PM

Are the bilge pumps designed to have a float switch on them? Perhaps that's why they don't work when your dash switch is in that left (auto) position. Without a float & water in the bilge to lift the switch, it may stay in the off position. $:-\$

yota2000 · October 30, 2016, 09:52:01 PM

Quote from: bigjim5589 on October 30, 2016, 07:48:26 PM
Are the bilge pumps designed to have a float switch on them? Perhaps that's why they don't work when your dash switch is in that left (auto) position. Without a float & water in the bilge to lift the switch, it may stay in the off position. $:-\$

Some do some don't but have one that does is helpful because you don't have to keep flipping the switch. Atm I'm not too worry about the bilge pump. More worried about the trim button

yota2000 · November 01, 2016, 03:05:47 PM

Well, came home for lunch and was going to try wiring 1 lead wire directly to the blue wire (up position). Got the lead wire connect and heard a static noise and what do you know trim and everything else works. Didn't even get to try the direct wire to blue diagnostic. This doesn't mean that the problem is fix though since it is intermediate. Sounds to me there is a loose connection at the positive side.

Bud Kennedy · November 01, 2016, 03:22:55 PM

Just got the boat home and it is now in the driveway. Wiring Schematics are a bit small and since my eye exam yesterday, I still can't see the print. Should be able to see it in the morning and perhaps can try to get a photo for you. My boat is a 1991 365V . The schematic is dated Feb 1991

yota2000 · November 01, 2016, 05:01:03 PM

That be helpful since the diagram on mine is gone. Don't think there was much changes.

Rsims · September 14, 2018, 09:44:10 PM

HI All,
New here, and I have the typical issues with bad Livewell pumps...Im all cut up but got the one out and have a replacement. I have the Brown positive and black neg wires, I give them direct current and of course the pump works, When I spliced the red to the brown positives that go to the switches,Toggles, nothing and I have power to the switches?

I didn't at first, lots of stiff wires, but I twisted and turned the connectors and I got power, But I had a wire direct from the battery to the switches and still no power back to the pumps? I have the timer and it looks shot, could that be a reason, maybe bypass it? But shouldn't the pump get power if I have direct to the switch? If anyone has a wiring diagram that would be great..

Replacing carpets, dash Im going to strip and try to Stain!! Im using clear reinforced hose for the livewells, flexible and safer for fish..
Need to add glove box, but it starts and has power to the fuel gauge,bilge work on floats, horn works, 12v outlet works,not sure about lights yet.trolling motor works so I can fish!!
Hoping to get this figured out this weekend, if anyone has Ideas please send them....