Crankbait jig/ rotary drying rack

[skeeter jones]

Looking for the plans or links for making the drying rack with motor.  Also ideas on how to make jigs for holding the baits.  I've seen them before but computer is slow.

I am looking at purchasing a badger 360 gun anyone have any comments.

[hesjustbassin]

Here is a place that sells everything you need for this if you don't want to make your own. The prices aren't too bad either.
http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=18

[hesjustbassin]

I did some searching and found this for making one. Hope it helps.



Drying Wheel
Compliments of:
Red-g8r Custom Tools, tips & more.
http://www.redg8r.com
Here's my version of the "drying wheel" I tried to make enhancements & additions but found it unnecessary to reinvent the wheel. Simple & effective, this one will resemble many others you may have seen, so feel free to adapt it to suit your needs. I have the motors used in these plans for sale on my website & www.tacklescout.com. These high torque 5RPM motors come with a template for tracing the correct attachment holes, etc. you can substitute almost any low RPM motor in place of mine. When completed, this drying wheel will hold & rotate 46 lures at a time the unit can stand alone, or mount to a wall or ceiling to save space. & with a small amount of modification you could rotate them "hot dog" style as well as "head over heels" for those of you who like to attach hardware before applying a final finish. OK Lets get started!
Parts list:
1) 5 rpm. Mitsubishi drying motor / or suitable other.
1) 1x4 – 6ft. long
6) 5/16" wooden dowel - 4ft. long
1) 2x2 – 2ft. long
1) Nylon bushing 5/16" inner diameter
2) machine bolts 2 in. long, approx. 1/8" dia.
1) matching nuts for the machine bolts above.
Some small diameter wire or trim nails

Tools Needed:
· Saw
· Drill
· Screwdriver
· 1/16, 1/8, 5/16, 3/8 drill bits
· Wood screws
· Wood glue or Epoxy
· Tape measure & Pencil

We'll start out by discussing the Lure holder, also called a "Lure Wand" as coined by Blake Gills, this is a simple wooden dowel, cut at approximately 6 inches, with a wire, nail, or small screw applied to the end. This allows you to affix a lure to it & gives you something to hold while you paint & finish your lures. I happen to love these, so these will play a role in holding the baits in my wheel plans. If you used to use hemostats or alligator clips to hold your lures, you should give these a shot because they're much easier to use & reduce hand fatigue.
Here's how to make one:
Cut your 5/16 wooden dowel into ( 6 inch pieces, Then using a 1/16" bit, drill into one end. Now using glue or epoxy, insert a small piece of wire, nail, etc into the hole & allow
to dry. Now you can attach the tail end of your baits to the dowel for easy painting.
Now to the wheel:
Lets start out by cutting the 2x2 to 24 inches, or 2ft.
Using a tape measure or ruler make a mark every 2 inches:
Example: 2" 4" 6" 8" 10" 12" 14" 16" 18" 20" 22"
Now turn the 2x2 & make some more marks starting at 1", then every 2".
Example: 1" 3" 5" 7" 9" 11" 13" 15" 17" 19'
21" 23"
Now using your 5/16" bit drill holes completely thru, on your marks.
Next, take your pencil & make an X on both ends of the 2x2, this will locate the center of
the stock.
Now using your 5/16 bit, drill a hole into the end, into the center of the X, going about ½" deep.
Switch to your 1/8 bit & do the same for the opposite end.
Take a piece of wooden dowel 3" long & glue or epoxy it into the 5/16" hole on the
end. Set it aside & allow it to dry.
Now for the frame:
Take your 1x4 & cut a piece 27 inches long. Using your pencil, lightly mark this as the
"base". Now taking into consideration that my wheel will accommodate up to 8 inch lures, cut (2) pieces 16 inches long. If you require longer baits, add an inch here to every inch over 8".
Example:
9" baits = 17" pieces
10" = 18"
11" = 19" & so on.
Make a mark on these (2) pieces, 1 inch down from the top, these will be where the
rotating 2x2 will be attached, so take one piece & drill a 3/8 hole in one, this will allow
you to glue or epoxy in the Nylon bushing, this is not totally necessary, but recommended for easier turning & less stress on the motor. If your using another motor, besides mine, you can drill another hole in the same place & mount the motor from the outside, if you are using my motor, here's a template to use. Just drill (2) 1/8 holes for the mounting bolts, & another 5/16 hole for the wiring. Just run the wiring thru the hole & add the bolts thru the mounting tabs on the motor & tighten down. Now assemble the pieces on top of the "base" board, by screwing thru the bottom. Now that your "pegged" 2x2 has dried, you can take a 1/16 bit drill a hole completely thru, & ¼" inch from the end. This will allow you to insert the 2x2 onto the motor axle & add a wire through the hole of the shaft. If you intend to make the kit free standing, just take your scrap 1x4 & make a couple legs & screw them into the sides of the base. All done! Now take your "Lure Wands" (6"dowels) & attach them into the holes on the 2x2 as necessary. If your dowels are loose fitting, you can take some tape & "beef" up the ends, so they stay put. If your dowels are tight, you can lightly sand them down.

My wheel, is setup & mounted to the ceiling. I prefer to keep it there, at the
warmest part of the room & out of harms way.

[skeeter jones]

http://www.redg8r.com

I didn't see a low rpm motor at the link for the supplier

[hesjustbassin]

That's because they are out of business. All that remains is the tutorial of how to build the drier.

[whittler]

Well if a picture is worth a thousand words, here is my drying wheel. A 4rpm rotisserie motor mounted on a U shaped plywood frame, with wheels made to match various holders.

[hesjustbassin]

Nice job one the rack whittler. I haven't seen one like that before, but I think it's a great idea.

[rangerboats3]

can you by one already made anywhere?

[OCBassman]

WOW Whittler  that is exactly what I was thinking about recomending he try.